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House Rabbit Community – BinkyBunny.com
Dedicated to discovering tips & tricks for living with house rabbits and other small animals! It contains tons of Rabbit Info, Photos, Videos, Resource Links, and a Forum with over 65,000 Topics. So hop in and enjoy, learn and share.

BinkyBunny Store – Store.BinkyBunny.com

What helps keep the House Rabbit Community side of things going is our store. Since 1987 BinkyBunny and The Busy Bunny (BinkyBunny acquired The Busy Bunny in 2016) have been offering safe edible nommy toys and treats for bunny companions and other small animals. We have an impressive array of 200+ unique products specially designed for rabbits. Our store has become the top choice for those seeking unique fun and safe toys, treats, hay, and feed for their furry friends.

Frequently Asked Questions about House Rabbits

FAQ for Bunnies

Frequently Asked Questions about House Rabbits

FAQ FYI PDQ – Frequently Asked Questions For Your Information Pretty Darn Quick

1. Can a “House” rabbit have outside visits?

Answer: Yes & No. There are valid arguments for both.

The Outside visits argument: Fresh air, fun things to smell and sniff and hear can offer enrichment to your bunny if your bunny seems to enjoy it, but you need to take precautions to keep your bunny as safe as possible.

If your bunny is allowed outside: Be careful:

Yards must be pesticide free.
Domestic bunnies have lost their ability to tell the difference between a toxic plant and ones they can eat, so you have to be sure their run is free of plants toxic to rabbits.
Even supervised rabbits can be taken by hawks during the day hours so it’s best to have some fenced in area with a cover.
Don’t leave a bunny unsupervised if they do not have some sort of protective covering.
And never leave your bunny free to roam in the backyard overnight. They will definitely be subject to night predators, like owls and raccoons. (even some cats!)
Even during the day while you are watching them they can be subject to predators (see a forum post about a hawk flying right down onto their porch. It turned out okay, but it’s amazing story to learn from. Check it out!

Inside Only Argument: As you can see, there are dangers outside. Plus, there are contagious diseases, illnesses and worms that rabbits can catch no matter how well you prepare your outside run.

2. My female bunny is humping my other rabbit? Is she really a boy?

Answer: Most likely she’s still a she. Bunnies hump not only for sex. They hump for dominance. A bunny’s gender makes no difference. They may even take turns humping each other trying to prove who’s boss. Bunnies may fight it out if they can’t resolve it this way, so hopefully humping will do the job. Just be careful to not let your bunny ever hump the other one face. Privates can be bitten off. EEEOUUCH.

NOTE: If your bunnies are not neutered/spayed and a pet store or some one else has just told you their gender, you may want to get a rabbit savvy vet to sex them to be sure. Gender mistakes happen all the time and result in surprise litters.

3. Why is discussion about intentional breeding not allowed on this site?

Answer: For three reasons:

Because the staff at Binkybunny is focused on individual rabbits, we are not qualified to discuss intentional breeding.
I’ve worked with rescue groups for many years and knowing that rabbits are the third most euthanized pet in the United States, I’ve become an advocate of finding homes for the already overwhelming numbers of abandoned bunnies, many of which are in danger of being put to sleep because of overcrowding. With that said, I don’t want to demonize breeders. As with everything, there are good and bad. Ultimately, people who take an animal into their home are ultimately responsible for their animal’s welfare no matter where the pet originally came from. And hopefully this site can some how help rabbit owners through their trials and tribulations so that they will not put their bunny at risk by giving it up.
Because there are arguments to validate both sides of the coin: Rescue vs Breeding, I don’t want the forum to become a debate board. I only want to focus on rabbits as individual pets. (and again, we just don’t have the experience with breeding questions – there are plenty of forums that are devoted to that)

4. Don’t see your question?

Answer: Check out our Forum FAQ section, and if you still don’t see it there, then ask away in the forum. Friendly people to help you out!

5. How much does having a rabbit cost?

Answer: I can’t give you the actual cost because your set up may be completely different, and where you live may be cheaper, or more expensive. What I can do is offer a list of things you can calculate yourself.

ONE TIME

BUNNY PROOFING

Wire Covers/Cord Protectors
Pen/Gate,etc if needed (for blocking off areas (see bunny proofing section)

HOUSING

Habitat (eg.x-pen, flooring, Neat Idea Cubes, Cage)
Click here to check out some examples of great rabbit habitats

ACCESSORIES

Pet Carrier
Water Bottle/Crock
Food Crock
Hay Rack
Soft Bedding
Litter box
Hiding Box

GROOMING

Nail Clippers
Brush/Comb
Styptic Powder

ONGOING COSTS

SUPPLIES

Hay
Pellets
Greens
Litter
Treats
Toys

MEDICAL CARE

Critical Care
Feeding Syringe
Vet Care: This can get expensive. Rabbits are not cheap patients! Always have a at least $200 dollars saved for medical care. The best way to find out vet costs is to call your local vet and ask what they usually treat rabbits for and how much is the average cost. (one common problem is GI Stasis)

6. What is a “House” rabbit?

Answer: A house rabbit (term pegged by the House Rabbit Society) is one that lives in the house with the family. Though, the rabbit may have his/her own inside home base like a pen, a cage or area, the litter trained rabbit can safely explore and lounge with the rest of the family in a bunny proofed home.

7. C’mon, can a rabbit really be litter trained?

Answer: If they are spayed and neutered then the answer is:

Absolutely! It takes patience and consistency. Though many rabbits are perfect with their litter box habits, some may not be absolutely perfect. You may have to be prepared for a few stragglers. Even rabbits, who only urinate and leave piles in their box, may sometimes still leave little pills here and there. They are dry and easy to pick up. And it’s nothing in comparison to a cat who leaves presents for you. : )

Click here to learn how to litter train your bunny. If you have stubborn bunny, once you click on that page, scroll down tips.

8. My rabbit doesn’t like being held. How can I teach my rabbit to enjoy it?

Answer: Pictures and photos always show cute rabbits being held. What a farce! It’s no wonder people feel confused when they get cute “cuddly” bunny and find out it’s not “cuddly” at all. And it’s hard not to want to pick up and cuddle those cute furry faces!

As young babies, bunnies should be handled to get used to being around humans, and to make it easier to do nail trims, etc. And you never know, you might actually find a rabbit who continues to enjoy being held even into adulthood. (though that’s rare)

I know people who have had rabbits that enjoy actually being held. And out of the hundreds of rabbits that I have come in contact with over the years, I too have experienced a few that really enjoy snuggling in a human’s arms. But that really is not the norm.

Many rabbits may tolerate being held very well which makes it easier to trim nails. But sometimes people mistake “tolerating” with “enjoying”. I worked at a shelter, and it’s common for adopters to say, “I used to have rabbits when I was a kid, and we held them all the time.” Sometimes, they’ll even grab the bunny off the floor, plop it on their lap and proudly say, “See, he’s fine with it.” But when I ask them to observe the bunny’s body language, ear placement, and the rabbit’s heartbeat, the truth is revealed. It’s an honest mistake; many people don’t know how to read bunny body language. (it’s subtle – that’s part of their survival technique)

So I think the best way to approach this is to look at it from a rabbit’s point of view. Rabbits are prey animals, and being held feels the same as being caught. Their instincts are telling them they are in life-threatening danger, and it’s not like they can easily reason through it; they are rabbits after all.

I mean look at us humans; we have fight or flight responses about all kinds of things that aren’t always dangerous – like heights, spiders, thunder, and I’m sure you could think of something else. Well, we’re expecting rabbits, who have been on this earth for millions of years, and survived because of these instincts, to get over it.

So I think the answer to the question is: If your rabbit doesn’t like being held, then most likely he won’t ever enjoy it. But that’s okay, there are other ways to experience joy from bunnies. I think it’s incredibly entertaining to watch a rabbits explore and binky. And when they are all done, if they want to snuggle on ground, I’m happy to oblige. And the best thing is, I find that their personalities really come alive when they feel safe, and part of feeling safe is when they can keep all four on the floor.

It also forces me to hang out and just relax. Something that can benefit us too!

9. My bunny was so friendly as a baby, but it’s only been a few months, and now she’s pyscho! She lunges, growls, and sometimes even bites. What is wrong?!

Answer: When bunnies reach sexual maturity (around 4 months) their hormones kick in. These hormones not only drive them to mate, but also to become territorial. Which can make them “defend” their territory from you, as well as take out any sexual frustration on you as well. Spaying and neutering takes care of this. Not only that, but it helps with litter box habits, and makes their urine and pills less pungent.

Plus, unspayed females have a high risk of cancer in their reproductive organs. Spaying prevents this from happening.

10. Well, my bunny is over the 4 months hump, plus he’s been neutered for a while, and one day he just turned aggressive towards me. What did I do?

Answer: Have you been around other animals? Other rabbits? Did you change your perfume or lotion? Are you on any new medications? Rabbits recognize us mostly by our smell. If you no longer smell like you, he might not recognize you and feel threatened.

If nothing has changed scent wise, then take your bunny to the vet. Aggression can be a result of a rabbit in pain or suffering from illness.

11. What do I feed my rabbit?

Answer: Adult rabbits (7 mnths+) need:

Unlimited Timothy Hay (stay away from alfalfa – it’s too rich)
A good high fiber (min 18%) timothy hay based pellet. No nuts, dried fruits etc included)
Lots of dark fresh leafy greens, like dandelion, parsley, cilantro.
Unlimited fresh water of course.

Check out my rabbits’ diets

For more detailed general diet info, and diets for baby bunnies, visit the House Rabbit Society

12. How can I tell if my bunny is fit?

Answer: I cannot say it better than an excerpt I found in an diet article on www.rabbitnetwork.org.

“How do you know if your bunny is fat? Many house rabbits are, and they are not at all embarrassed by it! Rabbits store fat inside their abdomen, which makes just eyeballing them for love handles ineffective. Run your hands along your rabbit’s side, feeling the rib cage. When you reach the end of the ribs, your should be able to feel a slight inward slope, the waist. Fat bunnies will balloon out instead. Remember that the ribs are palpable in even quite obese rabbits, so don’t let your bunny fool you into more snacks!”

SOURCE: Rabbitnetwork.org

Young Rabbit Behavior Changes

Bunny Gone Nutty?

Young Rabbit Behavior Changes

When Good Bunnies Go Bad – The Challenges of Bunny Teenagers

Has your baby bunny gone from cute to crazy? Nice to Naughty? Litter box habits gone awry? Is he looking for hubba hubba in all the wrong places? Is she gettin’ bossy, grunting and lunging? If so, it sounds like you may have a bunny that’s reaching sexual maturity, (3–6 months). This is when hormones begin to signal rabbits to mate, mark and protect their territory, causing a whole host of challenging behaviors including, (but not limited to), destructive behaviors, mounting, aggression, and loss of litter box habits.

For rabbits outside, this may not be such a big deal, but as more and more bunnies become House Rabbits, these behaviors can be extremely challenging.

Not every bunny will react this way, but for the ones that do, it can be a problem. I hear this over and over again, and it’s one of the reasons people surrender their rabbits to shelters. This doesn’t have to happen.

So what’s the solution?

First – Make sure the behavior isn’t due to a medical issue. Urinary tract infections, illnesses, and pain related problems can also cause some of these behaviors. If you suspect these behaviors may be due to a medical problem, schedule a vet appointment with a Rabbit-Savvy Vet.

Second – Get your Bunny Spay/Neutered by a Rabbit-Savvy Vet, check out the HRS Veterinarian Section.

A few good reasons to Spay/Neuter your Bunny

Easier for us to live with rabbits: Better litter box habits, less marking, and just a general calming down of some challenging rabbit behaviors that makes having a bunny companion more fun.
Easier for rabbits to live with us: A rabbit’s body shape, behavior and demeanor have been domesticated over hundreds of years, but part of the “wild” is still intact. Marking, Mating, Defending, Nesting behaviors have helped their wild cousins survive, but in our homes, those hormonally driven behaviors can lead to frustration and aggression. That can’t be the best life for a bunny who is displaying these behaviors.
Females have a higher risk of cancer of their reproductive organs as they age: Spaying/neutering solves that problem. Cancers of the
mammary glands can still happen but are less likely if the spay is done early enough.
Bunny Bonding: If you want to get your bunny a friend, spaying/neutering not only prevents pregnancy, but can make it easier for bunnies to bond.

For more great info the benefits of spaying/neutering:

Steps to Spay and Neuter

It’s VERY important that you find a rabbit-savvy veterinarian. This cannot be stressed enough. A vet who is an expert in Cats and Dogs may not necessarily be an expert with Rabbits. Vets that know how to spay a bunny have been through the additional training. How rabbits react to anesthesia, certain meds and treatments is unique to rabbits. Even pre-surgery instructions differ (eg: Rabbits should never be fasted). One of the best resources about how to find a rabbit savvy vet is from the HRS Veterinarian Section.

So you decided to get your bunny neutered but the surgery is at least a month away. What do you do in the meantime?

Temporary Solutions (Until your bunny is ready to be neutered/spayed)

Extremely Amorous – Circling, Honking, Chasing, Mounting, Nipping (love bites). Though cute at first, this can quickly get annoying, especially if your arm or leg gets assaulted. Try and redirect this behavior — Get a toy bunny (aka: stunt double) or something your bunny can work out his/her frustration on. Your bunny will catch on very quickly if you make the “Stunt Double” circle him. Once that’s been figured out, it’s all over for the stunt double. No date, no dinner, no nothin’. Just straight to bunny funny business.
Destructo Bunny – Walls, furniture, whatever your little bunicula can sink his/ her teeth into can become enticing to a teenage bunny. Some of this behavior may be age and personality related, but hormones can put this behavior into overdrive. Make sure to supply your bunny with things that your bunny can tear up. Wood Toys are good, but during this stage I found that something as simple as a phone book helps satisfy chewing AND digging at the same time. Also, check out our Toy Test Section for homemade toys that can keep a bunny busy. For tips on how to protect your home and furniture, see our Bunny Proofing Section
Litter Training Problems – Spraying urine and scattering poos have less to do with litter training and more to do with a territorial response. Hormones are telling your bunny to claim the place by marking it, (via spray, small pee spots, and/or scattered poo). Unfortunately, though training may help, this behavior may continue, (especially if you have other animals), until you get your bunny neutered/spayed. Supervision will be necessary during free time out. Xpens are good way to limit freedom while providing exercise if you are unable to supervise. Once your bunny has been neutered, you can slowly expand freedom with improved litter box habits.
Strong Urine and Skunky Smell – Unfortunately there is nothing you can do about the actual smell when he’s not neutered. You just have to be extra diligent about cleaning, and look carefully for spray residue which can sometimes be clear. You should still see a thin residue on walls, floor or anywhere near where your bunny hangs out the most. A 50/50 water and white vinegar mix is a good urine cleaner!
I like to place a basket full of fresh herbs like Rosemary, Cilantro and Basil nearby where my rabbits reside. All I have to do is break the herbs into few pieces whenever I need a fresh herb scent. It works great! (Stay away from air fresheners which can be irritating to an animals respiratory system).
Aggression – This can be related to the urge to mate, but many times it is also territorial related. Some bunnies may lunge or growl when you set down food or reach into their cage/pen. One tip is to pet them first before giving food, but if that doesn’t help or makes things worse, then you may want to schedule feeding and cleaning when your bunny is out and about. Pet her when she’s out playing if she is offended when you reaching into her cage/pen.

Try and have patience while you wait for the surgery date. After surgery, it can take about month for the hormones to die down and for your bunny to be back on “better” behavior. (Note: male bunnies may have viable sperm for a month after surgery so don’t allow any unspayed female bunnies for at least a month.) I know it’s frustrating but you’re not the only one going through it. Check out our Forum Behavior Section to see how others are handling it.

Litterbox Training

Tips and Tricks for Litter Training your Bunny.

Many people are surprised to find out that rabbits can be litter trained. Some bunnies get it in a few days, others in a few weeks, or even longer. Don’t get discouraged, I found that persistence pays off.

Bunnies are creatures of habit. Even a few weeks may be too short for the some bunnies. Though my other two rabbits got it within a week, Bailey took months, and even then I had to watch to make sure she didn’t fall back into old habits. It only takes a few days to establish bad habits, and it can mean weeks of retraining.

Baby bunnies and bunnies that aren’t spayed and neutered may be tougher to train. It still a good idea to litter train babies, some will get it, some will be more difficult, but either way, it’s a good idea to help develop good litter box habits – even if they become challenging during sexual maturity. The early training will help cement litter box habits so that they will know what to do when their hormones have died down (and after neutering)

Note: If your bunny was litter box trained and then all of a sudden began losing his/her good habits and nothing else changed, (no new animals, environment changes, etc.), then you may want to make sure there is nothing medically wrong, like a Urinary Tract Infection. It would be a good idea to have your rabbit-savvy vet check out your bunny to rule a medical issue. For other medical issues that may hinder litter box training scroll down to Trouble-shooting tips (at the bottom).

The “Prepared” Litter Box

Litter: My favorite litter is compressed paper litter like Yesterday’s News. Don’t use any pine shavings or cedar wood shavings or any clumping litters – all very dangerous. However, dried pine pellets like feline pine or wood stove pellets are okay.

Include Hay: Make sure there is fresh hay in the box. Bunnies poop and eat at the same time.

Add poop!: Put your bunny’s droppings and a urine soaked paper towel in the box.

Check out these Great Litter box Ideas from our Forum Thread.

Add a healthy treat: I like to add a small amount of a pleasant smelling herb like mint, basil, or rosemary in their litter box. It not only smells good, but it’s a tasty treat for them too, and great encouragement to get in.

Actual Training

Start small: If a bunny is given too much freedom too fast, that just invites a poopfest. So, I allow my bunny to master one area before moving him/her to the next. If your only space right now is a small cage then I suggest getting an x-pen to allow at least some space to stretch and exercise while he’s confined. This won’t be forever, just until he is litter trained. Usually takes a few weeks.

Find the favorite corner: They usually do their business in a favorite corner. I put the “prepared” litter box in that corner. If my bunny decides on a few corners, then I put in a few litter boxes. I have found that they begin to prefer one, and I slowly take out one at a time.

Become a Clean Freak and clean up urine mishaps asap:
It also helps to clean up any urine that’s outside the box as soon as you notice it, (including blankets/linens). It can really be tiring at first, but diligence can pay off.
If you notice this increases marking instead, then your bunny may actually need to feel more secure by leaving his scent around a bit, so you may want to back off on the Clean Freak method and see if your bunny marks less

Training Sessions – Catch ‘em in the Act: I find this to be the most effective training tool. The best way to catch ‘em in the act is to spend time with your bunnies everyday around the time they eat. This is when they will most likely need to poo too!

Each time you catch your bunny lifting its tail to pee or poo, at that very moment, say “Eh uh!” or “No!” and herd him or nudge him to the litter box. (it doesn’t help to do it after he’s done the deed). You may even want to put the first part of his body in the box. Best to allow him to get in the box so he will understand going into the box himself.

It is also helpful to teach your bunny to understand the word litter box so he will go there when you say the word. See tips on how to do this below.

Giving More Freedom

This is when great habits can go down the drain. It’s important to allow limited freedom and watch like a hawk.

Should the litter box be only in their cage/pen? Many bunnies will still go back to their cage or area to pee and poop, but if you have a large house, or there is a corner in a room that just seems to be a continuous target no matter how much you’ve trained him/her, then I would put a litter box there.

Make sure to still catch them in the act in any new space. You’ll need to be diligent about watching until they are completely trained in every place. In larger spaces, like the living room, I bring a water bottle, and give a quick squirt. It reaches them fast and right when they are lifting their tail. Then I herd them back to their litter box. Again, don’t chase! If they just refused to get it, I would only then pick ’em up and place them just in front of the litter box, blocking escapes, so they can jump in the box on their own. Then I quickly back away so they feel safe to stay in there.

Teach the word “Litter box”

Say the word “litter box” over and over while herding your bunny to his box. Make sure not to chase or terrify him. That will only seem like punishment and they will avoid the box. Just gently and persistently herd and guide. As soon as they jump back into the box, you back off. Your bunny will learn that getting in the litter box makes you back off

Tip for bunnies who refuse to get in to the box: If after a few minutes of herding, pick ’em up and place them just in front of the litter box, blocking escapes, so they can jump in the box on their own. Then quickly back away so they feel safe to stay in there.

You can also give a treat, unless your reaching down toward him makes your bunny jump out of the box. Just see how your bunny reacts. After a while, you should be able to just say the word “litter box” a few times before your bunny goes there.

Tips for Stubborn Bunnies

STAY OUT OF THEIR SPACE:

Some territorial bunnies just figure everywhere is fair game for territorial marking. And it doesn’t help if you are reaching into or entering their space. This may confirm that they don’t really have a space of their own, therefore, it’s all their space.

SO………

…..I let their space, their cage, be a place that is THEIRS. I don’t clean or reach in while they are in there. (I may drop food and water in, but that’s it). I try not to reach in to get them or physically lift them up and put them back in.
Instead, I let them come out on their own

And if I can’t herd them back in after play time, then when I do pick them up, I place them just outside the entrance, blocking an escape so they go back in on their own.

Once they become litter trained, then I can usually reach in and pet them and offer affection in their territory. But if you find that that makes things worse, then of course don’t do that anymore. 🙂

Bailey – The Persistent Marker

My solution w/ Bailey:Spend time with her on the floor.

Even though Bailey mastered the litter box in her area, she has what I jokingly call OMD – Obsessive Marking Disorder, As soon as she gets freedom, she begins marking one small area in the living room with territorial pills. (and having a litter box there didn’t help)

So I started observing her. Unlike my other bunnies who want to run and explore, Bailey immediately looks for attention.

…So as soon as I let her out, I lay on the floor in the area that she likes to mark and I pet her. For some reason that has helped decrease her marking. Maybe this makes her feel secure so less need to mark. Maybe since I’m on the floor too, she’s sees it not as just her area, or maybe she feels she doesn’t have to prove her dominance through marking since she’s getting “dominant rabbit treatment” aka: grooming/petting. I’m really not sure, but whatever the reason, her marking diminishes in that area if I follow that routine.

UPDATE: Bailey rarely marked in the general area, but she took to making her own pen look like a poo bomb went off. But as long as she keeps her poos in her pen, I’m happy.

More Troubleshooting Tips

Litter box too clean? Could the box still have a strong detergent smell? Make sure to rinse well and put in some of their own poo back in.
Litter box too dirty? Some bunnies will begin going outside of the box if their box is filthy.
Scented Litter? Some litters have a strong wood or perfumed additive that is offensive to some bunnies. (e.g. I accidentally grabbed the “fresh scented” Yesterday’s News litter, instead of the unscented. Boy, what a mess – my bunnies wanted nothing to do with the litter box)
Litter box seem like punishment? When litter training, you don’t want to scare your bunny into the litter box. That will only have the opposite effect. Never chase him or yell at him to get in the litter box. If you are working on the “herding” method, then offer a treat once your bunny gets in the box.
Give ‘em enough space once they’re in. Though some places suggest to offer a treat when the bunny goes in. I have found more success when I just quickly back away once they jump into the box. I can say “Good Job” and have a treat for him in there already, but I find it better to keep out of his business while he’s doing his business.
The Cloth Trick to help minimize TERRITORIAL marking: A member posted about this in the forum, and I have also seen this on the show “Barking Mad”. Rub a cloth all over your bunny, then rub the cloth on the area he likes to mark. The idea is that s/he will no longer feel the need to spread his scent around if it’s already there. The few people that have tried this have said it works. Note: Territorial marking is very difficult to eliminate completely if your bunny is not spayed/neutered.
Still Baffled? Just start observing when your bunny does it and where? Is it right away? Is it in one particular area or all over the place? Post in our FORUM, and we’ll help you get to the bottom of it.
MEDICAL ISSUES: if all else fails, have a rabbit-savvy vet examine a persistent urinator for an underlying medical condition. Weight issues, Arthritis, Urinary Tract Infection, High Hormone levels are just some of the things that can prevent your bunny from being successfully litter-trained. (Thank you Diane J. for emailing me this very important tip!)

Do you have some great litter training tips? Contact Us, and put “Litter Training Tips” in the subject line.

Monthly Maintenance Checklist

Monthly Maintenance

Monthly Maintenance Checklist

Keep your House Rabbit in Tip Top Bunny Shape

SUPPLIES NEEDED

A Towel – For your lap or make a bunny burrito
Clippers – I prefer the guillotine for large nails, and scissor type for petites.
Styptic Powder & Cotton Balls/Pads – Just in case you clip the quick.
Q-Tips – For anal gland cleaning.
Disposable Cup Full of Luke-warm Water – To dip Q-tips into for anal gland cleaning.
Flashlight – To shine behind the dark nails to spot the quick.

Body

Rub your hands over your bunny’s body. Check for lumps, bumps, scratches, cuts, rashes etc. Cuts and scratches can turn into abscesses so be sure that cuts are cleaned and check frequently.

Don’t forget to feel the cheeks and jaw line. But be careful when going underneath the chin, as some bunnies will bite when you do this. (you can also do the jaw and chin check later when you check the teeth) Soon, you’ll know what normal bumps and lumps are, making it easier to spot new ones.

Healthy Ears

Info & picture of a severe case of ear mites at
http://www.mohrs.org/hrswebpg28.html

Ears

Check for gunk. Most bunnies with upright ears can keep their ears clean, and especially if you have two rabbits, they clean each other’s. But some lops may need a little help. If there is a lot of gunk, it could mean several things, including mites or infection – both which should be seen by a vet.

Eye with slight discharge

(dampness around eye)

Eyes

Is there discharge? Are they runny or cloudy?

Some bunnies, like my Rucy, had chronic tear duct blockage problems. This was due to scar tissue built up from jaw abscess surgeries. Most of the time her companion, Jack, kept her eye clean. But I had to keep an eye on her eye, otherwise if unkept, her tears irritated the skin around her eye causing hair loss and pain.

Healthy Nose

Nose

Check for discharge, crusties in the nose, and make sure there is a clear pathway. If it’s green and dusty, then you may need to shake out your hay a little and sift your rabbit’s pellets to get all the millings and powder out. This can help prevent it from getting in their lungs and causing problems.(Tip by member: HoppyBunny)

NOTE: For the following steps, Teeth, Nails and Anal glands, you’ll need to secure your bunny.

If you’re not used to securing your bunny, have someone help you, and stay very low to the ground just in case your bunny wiggles free. Stay calm. Your nervousness won’t help a nervous bunny.

Securing

Trancing – I am not a huge fan of this because though it looks like your bunny is relaxed, this is actually a prey response to stress. I only recommend this when other options don’t work. Nail Trims are a must and so just try to get it done as quickly, but as carefully as possible.

I secure my bunny on my lap between my legs. I put her on her back and pet her head – that calms her down, sort of a semi-trance.. Make sure your bunny can’t kick out its back legs and injure itself.

NOTE: Bunnies can actually break their back by kicking into the air so hard.
So I always lean in over the back legs or use part of my arm to secure the legs.

Bunny Burrito Wrap

For hard to handle bunnies, like my bunny Jack, you can also wrap your bunny in a small blanket or towel. People have their own best way of doing this, but just be sure not to make it TOO tight. Just enough to keep him/her secure. Some put the towel over the bunny first and scoop him up, or they pick the bunny up and wrap the towel around. It really depends on you and your bunny.

Great Video on how to do a bunny burrito

Bunny Burrito Instructions from a post in our forum.

Be sure not to let your bunny get over heated. If you feel s/he is getting too hot, you may need to give him break.

If my bunny is still feeling frightened I cover his eyes which helps calm him.

Healthy Teeth & Gums

Links to photos of bunnies with dental problems.

House Rabbit Society Dental Article

MyBunny.org Dental Article

Teeth & Gums

Check gums to make sure they are a healthy pink (not white, red or purple)
Check the front teeth to see if they are wearing down properly and that there aren’t chips. If you do find a missing incisor, take your bunny to the vet to prevent infection. Abscesses in the gums can be very aggressive. .
Bunny breath is nice! If stinky, there could be something wrong like an abscess. (unless she just ate something gross)
This is also a good time to check for bumps and lumps around the jaw and chin if you couldn’t do it before. Though some chins look damp when the bunny loves to chins stuff, if it’s very wet, it could mean there are some dental problems and a vet should check it out.

If your bunny has a malocclusion and/or spurs – check to see if the incisors need a trim by your vet. You can’t check the spurs because they are too far back into the mouth, it all depends on your bunnies growth cycle and you and your vet will be able to determine how often they will need to be checked.

Rucy gets a spur trimmed by her vet every 3 months. But time flies, so it’s good to mark it on the calendar.

TIP for Dark nailed bunnies

Use a flashlight to help spot the quick.

Nails

The quick is the pink flesh part INSIDE of the nail. You don’t want to cut that. IF you do, don’t panic. That is what the styptic powder is for. Put the powder on a cotton ball and apply pressure. (Cornstarch works too, but most styptic powders come with a pain reliever.)

For those who haven’t clipped nails before, it’s a good idea to have an expert teach you, or have someone help you until you get the hang of it. Here’s a great link to help guide you. Exotic Pets Website

UPDATE: We found a great video that helps people trim their bunny’s nails in a way that keeps their rabbit calm. Stress free for both human and bunny alike http://www.rabbitcare.org/video.htm. You have purchase it from the New York HRS, but your $$ goes to a good cause.

Helpful Tips:

If you’re still getting used to trimming nails, then trim just the very tip. It’s better to be conservative until you gain confidence.

Tips for dark nailed bunnies. I use a flashlight to highlight behind the nail to help spot the quick.

If the hair between the nails is long and blocks your view, DO NOT TRIM fur, just wet down the fur to get it out of the way.
If you haven’t trimmed in a while, the quick can grow long, if you find that in your bunny’s case, then just trim slightly each month. The quick will eventually recede back to normal.

Healthy Feet

Feet

This is a good time to check crooked/broken toes and for sore hocks.

Sore hocks are sores that can develop on the bottom of rabbits feet. They need to be treated right away, as they can become infected. Some bunnies have a visible small pink pad, and that’s normal, but if it’s bright red, and/or bleeding, it needs treatment.

Rexes have a tendency for sore hocks because the fur on their feet is thinner than other breeds.

Learn how to prevent sore hocks. Check out this article from the House Rabbit Society

Anal Scent Glands (EEEYUCK!)

These are little slits located on either side of the genital mound. They are pretty well hidden, but once you’ve found them, you gently open and “WHEW Stinky!” – But don’t worry, the smell quickly disappears.

This is where that disposable cup filled with lukewarm water and q-tips come in handy. I just place it right next to me and dip the q-tip into water and gently swab out the area.

Check every month. You’ll soon find that some bunnies build up a waxy substance very quickly while others only need cleaning a few times a year.

You’re Finished!

GIVE YOUR BUNNY A TREAT

For goodness sakes, it’s not easy being prodded and probed.

Healthy Diet for your House Rabbit

A Healthy Diet is Essential for Your House Rabbit’s Well-Being

Rabbits have sensitive digestive systems. Knowing what a healthy diet consists of will help prevent serious digestive issues and promote a long healthy life. There are different diet requirements for growth stages.

We follow the House Rabbit Society’s Diet Recommendations.

Note: Nursing mothers and breeding rabbits may need different diet requirements that are not covered on our site. You will need to seek out other resources in these cases. Our site is focused on non-breeding neutered rabbits only.

DIET FOR NON-BREEDING NEUTERED ADULTS (over 1 year)

For younger rabbits be sure to House Rabbit Guidelines

Unlimited Hay

This is extremely important for a bunny’s digestive system. Always have it available. My bunnies eat more hay when they have a variety of hays.

Hay Tip – A great trick that encourages more hay consumption is add a little fresh hay on top of the existing hay, or take the hay that has been sitting there all day, put in back in the bag, mix it around and grab a new big handful. I don’t know why this works – maybe the fresh scent of hay being resurfaced – For some reason this entices them to eat more, even though they still had plenty of hay in their rack.

Pellets

General Serving size – 1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lb bunny

Recommended Nutritional Value
Fiber 18% minimum (20 -25% best)
Fat 1 – 2% max
Protein 12 – 14% max (long-haired breeds may need higher)
Calcium 1% max

Avoid pellets with nuts & dried fruit. That’s like putting M&M’sj on your salad everyday. Stick with pellets that are Timothy based. Some alfalfa based pellets do have a high fiber content, but most are too high in calories, protein, and calcium for many adult rabbits.
Pellet Tip – A rabbit’s system is meant for foraging. Spread pellets out all over his pen or cage, hide in specific place or use a treat dispenser ball sometimes. This way he can’t consume everything at once and it will add a bit of exercise and entertainment to his daily routine.

Greens/Veggies (Minimum 3 different types)

Minimum 2 cups of chopped leafy greens per 6 lbs. See the HRS recommendations for which leafy greens are best.

When introducing greens for the first time – offer just one at time. Add new one in after a few days. If a bunny snubs a particular leafy green. Just keep adding a little bit to the diet even if they have snubbed it before. I’ve done this thinking my bunnies would never eat it, but then one day they decide to try it and end up liking it. And even if your bunny snubs one or two types permanently, there are plenty others to choose from.

Veggie storing Tips from a BinkyBunny Forum Discussion

Fruit

1 oz. to 2 oz. max per 6 lbs. body weight.

High in calories, but still a better treat than some of the “junk food” treats that are sold at pet stores.

See Veggie and Fruit List

Diet Sources

House Rabbit Society Diet FAQ

Alternative House Rabbit Diets

Some bunnies that have certain types of illnesses may require a specialized diet recommended by your rabbit-savvy vet. Below are what I have done with two of my bunnies. These are just for your reference only so you can consult with your vet and create the right diet for YOUR bunny if they are suffering from similar issues.

Jack

Bladder Stone Problems

Jack had a calcium oxalate stone removed.

A special diet was recommended to help prevent any reoccurrence.

Check out Jack’s story and his new diet plan.

Bailey

Bailey was Chronic Poopybutter (AKA: Icky Sticky Stinky Poo Bum)

She had a VERY sensitive tummy. She also suffered from e.cuniculi and aa crooked spine. Whether that played a part is not fully known, but we really had to go through major trial and error to get a diet that kept the bouts of poopybutt down.

Check out our trial error to get to a diet that worked best for her.

How Much does a Bunny Really Cost?

Cost Of a Bunny

How Much does a Bunny Really Cost?

Do your Homework First Before you get Suckered in by Cuteness!

Don’t let the the adorable face of a bunny sucker you in. Many people are surprised to find out how much a House Rabbit companion actually costs. Rabbits are usually inexpensive to get, but that doesn’t mean they are cheap to keep! Just basic one time purchases of supplies may cost $250, and the ongoing cost for one rabbit adds up to around $80/month ($960/year). This does not include vet care for illnesses and emergencies which can be very expensive.

We do offer money-saving tips, and there are ways to cut costs, however, if one of the reasons a rabbit appealed to you was the notion of a cheap pet, then I would take the time to reconsider. I can’t count the times someone has posted in the forum about not being able to cover one cost or another. So though there may be ways to cut costs, there are still ongoing expenses that can be hard on very tight budgets.

Rabbits can live to be over 10 years old, so be ready for the a long-term financial commitment. The total costs are hard for many to believe, so we’ve broken it down so you can see how all the little stuff adds up. Find out if your pocket book is ready and check out the list of basic costs that go into proper care of one house rabbit. (if we’ve missed anything, be sure to Contact Us and let us know!)

ONE TIME and/or OCCASIONAL PURCHASES

(Note: even some “One Time” purchases will eventually need replacing)

Cages/Pens = $150

(Average if using cubes or pens)

Most cages that are sold “for rabbits” are usually much too small for an adult rabbit, not to mention they can be double the average price above. According to the House Rabbit Society, cages/pens should be at least four times the size of your bunny – more if confined for large amounts of time each day.(Rabbits should get a LEAST three hours a day of free exercise time) Remember flooring too for your bunny! Even if you use a pen, you’ll still want to have some sort of water proof flooring like sheet vinyl or chloroplast to make cleaning up easy. See Housing Examples

Food & Water Dishes = $12
($6 each)Avoid the plastic cheap light-weight bowls. Rabbits will accidentally AND intentionally overturn those.Replace plastic water bottles annually.

Basic litter Box ($6) & Scoop($3) = $9

Litter boxes can go up in price dramatically with screens, covers and protective edge attachments (for the diggers!). Also, at some point, they do become smelly even when cleaned regularly, so you will have to eventually replace it. I recommend a solid scoop since rabbit litter is not the kind that can be sifted (Never use clay, dusty,clumping type litters for rabbits)

We sell basic low cost litter boxes, along with screen options.

Bargain Tip – Check out these Great Litter Box Ideas!

Hay Rack = $10

You can get some really neat fancy racks that keep the hay from getting everywhere, or buy ones that are more basic, metal or wood, but still work great for a hungry bunny!

The rack in the photo is available in the BinkyBunny Store.

Bargain Tip – Cardboard boxes, wire baskets can double as hay racks. Make sure that any wood basket has not been treated.

Hidey House = $12

Rabbits, being prey animals, like to to have hidey houses. This makes them feel safe and secure.

Options include:

Make from safe woods (redwood is toxic to bunnies)
Get a plastic storage tub and cut TWO entry/exit holes in it. Be sure to sand off any sharp edges
Plain old (non-dyed) cardboard can work too.
Purchase from the BinkyBunny Store

Caution Note: If you use a pen, don’t place a flat topped hidey house near the edge of an xpen, (doubles an escape launch pad).

Soft Bedding = $15

Make sure to have a flat surface and soft bedding in any cage/pen for a place to lounge. This can be anything from soft bedding from a pet store, a throw blanket, or a yard or two of fleece from a fabric store.

Caution Note: Some materials can shed fibers and cause serious digestive problems. Pull on the the material to check if fibers come loose easily. Also some bunnies may eat the material. You will need to switch to another type of bedding if that is the case. (trial and error)

Toys = $15

Rabbits do play, and good rabbit toys cater to rabbity behaviors. Foraging, chewing, and exploring are top on the list. It’s best to buy a few toys and alternate them to prevent boredom.

This will be more of a frequent replacement – may not be monthly, but at least every few months or so.

Check out BinkyBunny Toys

Bargain Tip – For some inexpensive homemade options check out our Bunny Toy Test.

Nail Care = $13.50

Nail Clippers = 6.00

Styptic Powder = 7.50

Learn how to clip nails in Monthly Maintenance

Brush and Comb = $6.00

It’s important to keep rabbits groomed. A once a week brushing (or more during molts) helps prevent digestive issues.

Our personal favorite is Hairbuster Comb

Cord Covers = $10

Rabbits will chew through cords which can cause damage to your stuff, fire hazards and can also seriously hurt your bunny! Get your cords up and out of the way or cover them

There are many versions of cord covers. I use corrugated flexible tubing which you can find online or at your local hardware store.

Protect your stuff, learn how to Bunny Proof your Home

Small Carrier = $25

Carrier styles and prices vary greatly! – From the basic (left) to fancy, colorful, and even air-conditioned.

Avoid using cheap cardboard carriers as a determined rabbit will chew right thru those in just minutes.

One Time/Occasional TOTAL = $247.50

MONTHLY COSTS

Hay = $15/month

Rabbits should have access to fresh hay available 24 hours a day. Hay is vital to your bunny’s health. It provides the necessary fiber to move hair through the digestive system. Young rabbits under 7 months can have alfalfa. Adult rabbits should get grass hays, like Timothy, Orchard, Oat and/or mixtures. The BinkyBunny Store provides a large variety of Hays.

Bargain Tip – If you live near a hay farm, you can save money by buying in large quantities and storing hay properly. Just make sure the hay you buy is for horses and small animals. Do not get cattle quality hay. Also note that it is not uncommon for hay in bulk to have a few dead crickets,and/or some debris, since the hay hasn’t been sifted through smaller packages. It is a natural product after all. So just sift as you go. Storing properly is very important: Hay needs to breathe to prevent mold. A cardboard box or large laundry bag are best. Plastic bins are okay if you get in and out of it a lot — you can also drill a few holes throughout to allow for some airflow.

Greens/Veggies = $40/month

See Diet Page for appropriate amounts (avg 1.5 cups minimum daily)

Greens should be slowly introduced at about 3 months old

Pellets = $4.50/month

(Based on 10# bag that should last a few months)

Recommended Nutritional Value
Fiber 18% minimum (20 -25% best)
Fat 1 – 2% max
Protein 12 – 14% max (long-haired breeds may need higher)
Calcium 1% max

Avoid pellets that have dried fruit, cereal, seeds & nuts

Litter = $20/month

Some of my favorite litters include Aspen Supreme, Yesterdays News and Carefresh. (Carefresh is a soft litter – perfect for bunnies, like Rexes, that are prone to sore hocks.)

Stay away from clumping & dusty cat litters, corn based, and pine shavings as these can cause serious health risks. (compressed pine pellets are okay)

Bargain Tip: Horse stall pellets or Wood stove pellets are usually cheap and a great alternative to some of the more expensive litter brands. Just make sure the wood stove pellets do not have have accelerant added.

Pet Friendly Cleaning Products = $2/month

Unlike other free range
animals, rabbits are many times limited to a particular space, so it is very important to use to rinse well eve

n with pet friendly cleaners.
Bargain Tip – White Vinegar/Water (50/50) is wonderful in combating urine stains and odor. Rabbits urine can have a strong ammonia smell and the vinegar mix combats these very well! However, since vinegar is very acidic, you will need an industrial plastic bottle otherwise you may find that an ordinary spray bottle’s nozzle may stop working.

I find using both the vinegar mix and Nature’s Miracle works helps prevent remarking.

MONTHLY TOTAL = $81.50

ADDITIONAL COSTS NOT INCLUDED IN COST CALCULATIONS

Vet Care

The likelihood of any pet needing vet care in their lifetime is high. Rabbits are no exception, and it can be very expensive.

(Check out this Forum Discussion about some actual vet costs members had to deal with).
Remember, you are paying for the vet, not the pet. Not to mention that you need to make sure your vet is rabbit-savvy. You may be surprised to learn that rabbits are actually considered “exotic”. A rabbit-savvy vet will have the extra schooling for “exotics” to treat rabbits. The exotic title is due in part to the the fact that rabbits react differently to anesthesia than cats and dogs. Also some treatments and antibiotics that would be safe for a cat or dog, can be deadly to rabbits. Dental issues are also common, especially in dwarf breeds, and this can be very expensive over time with regular check-ups, tooth trims, and/or surgeries. This equals into hundreds to even thousands of dollars.

Rabbit’s hide illness very well, and by the time you notice something is wrong, it can be serious. Waiting to bring your bunny to the vet, due to lack of funds, can put your bunny at serious risk. I recommend getting pet insurance (VPI covers rabbits $12/month). Be sure to save a few hundred dollars for emergency care.
There are also credit cards, like “Care Credit”, that can only be spent on health care and vet care. Not all vets take these, but many do – check with yours. For me this system works out well, as I can put the vet bill on the credit card, file a claim with the insurance, which normally pays out by the time my credit card is due. Every little bit helps.

Lifesaver Note – PLEASE get Emergency Vet references and figure out who is available around you that is ALSO an EMERGENCY vet. BEFORE an emergency ever happens. It can be harder to find rabbit-savvy Emergency vets and rabbits can go downhill very quickly. You don’t want to be spending precious time trying to do the search when your bunny may be fighting for its life. Get a list of vet references, talk to them personally, and keep phone numbers and directions nearby so you can just focus on getting there in times of urgency.

Bargain Tip – Adopt a bunny from a rabbit rescue or animal shelter. Most are already spayed/neutered ($150 savings! –Can be even more depending on where you live). And many shelters have already given their bunny a check-up and/or will give you a coupon for a free check up with in so many days after adoption)

Time

The value of exercise, love and attention is priceless. Unlike cats or dogs who will verbally announce their dissatisfaction, a dissatisfied rabbit may act out or just sit in his cage all day. Silence does not equal satisfaction. Rabbits need freedom, exercise and attention everyday.

Treats

Treats are definitely not a necessity, and you do have to be careful with how much you give a rabbit, but given in moderation, it’s a great way to bond with your bunny. Plus, c’mon how many people don’t give treats to their animal companions. It’s a human thing! Just be sure to look for the healthiest possible.

Bargain tip: Fresh herbs like rosemary and mint and small amounts of fruit can make for a wonderful healthy treat. Be sure to check the ingredients of store bought treats to make sure they are not too high in fat and sugar.

Grumpsters – Once in a blue moon, we get an email from an annoyed person who is upset by our cost estimates. Even with our Bargain Tips, they say they never spent much, and that they never had to worry about vet care. If that is true for you, consider yourself extra-thrifty, but extremely fortunate with health. This Cost Page was created because of our ongoing experiences with unprepared people who found themselves in an ethical dilemma due to being financially side-swiped, (especially when it comes to rabbit health and vet care).

No one told them what proper care entailed or that vet care can be expensive. Telling someone that rabbits don’t cost that much only has the potential to do more harm than good down the line. Our focus will always be on the individuals responsibility for their animal companion regardless of where their rabbit came from. There are many people that can benefit from understanding that a rabbit costs more than what they paid for it.

So if this didn’t scare ya off, you might just be ready for the “cute” high.

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If your registration(s) with or ability to access BinkyBunny.com, any other BinkyBunny.com community and/or any other service, product, content, course, event, tool or digital product provided to you by BinkyBunny.com is discontinued by BinkyBunny.com due to your violation of any portion of these Terms of Service or for conduct otherwise inappropriate for the community of BinkyBunny.com, then you agree that you shall not attempt to re-register with or access BinkyBunny.com, any other BinkyBunny.com community and/or any other digital product, course content or service provided by BinkyBunny.com, through use of a different member name or otherwise, and you acknowledge that you will not be entitled to receive a refund for fees related to those digital products, products, courses events or content and services to which your access has been terminated. In the event that you violate the immediately preceding sentence, BinkyBunny.com reserves the right, in its sole discretion, to immediately take any or all of the actions set forth in subsections (i), (ii), (iii), (iv), (v) and (vi) of this provision without any notice or warning to you.

Modifications of these Terms of Service

BinkyBunny.com may modify these Terms of Service from time to time in its sole discretion. Each time you log on to BinkyBunny.com, you will be deemed to have accepted any such changes. In the event we modify these Terms of Service, we reserve the right (at BinkyBunny.com’s discretion) to provide you notice of such changes to any e-mail address you have provided to BinkyBunny.com, or post office address you have provided to BinkyBunny.com.

Modifications of BinkyBunny.com

BinkyBunny.com may modify or discontinue BinkyBunny.com, or any portion thereof or any services, digital products, products, events or courses related thereto, with or without notice to you and without liability to you or any third party, except as otherwise provided herein.

Third Party Services

You may order services or merchandise through BinkyBunny.com from other persons not affiliated with BinkyBunny.com (“Seller”). All matters concerning the merchandise and services desired from Seller, including but not limited to purchase terms, payment terms, warranties, guarantees, maintenance and delivery, are solely between you and Seller. BinkyBunny.com makes no warranties or representations whatsoever with regard to any goods or services provided by Sellers. You will not consider BinkyBunny.com nor will BinkyBunny.com be construed as a party to such transactions, whether or not BinkyBunny.com may have received some form of revenue or other remuneration in connection with the transaction or be liable for any costs or damages arising out of, either directly or indirectly, you or any other person involved or related to the transaction.

BinkyBunny.com may include special routing icons which may be located within BinkyBunny.com, the activation of which will allow you to access and learn more about BinkyBunny.com and other services provided by BinkyBunny.com whereby the use of such icons is free of additional charge to you. WHEN YOU ACCESS ANY OF THESE SERVICES, YOUR RIGHTS AND OBLIGATIONS WILL BE GOVERNED BY THE AGREEMENTS AND POLICIES RELATING TO THE USE OF THESE SERVICES.

Links to Third Party Sites:

Links to third party sites are provided solely for your convenience. Such sites are not under the control of BINKYBUNNY.COM, and BINKYBUNNY.COM is not responsible for their content, any changes or updates to them, or the collection of any personal data or information by the operators of such sites. Registration and Password. Please be sure to review any applicable Service Terms and Conditions before making use of services from another site.

You are responsible for maintaining the confidentiality of your information and password. You shall be responsible for all uses of your registration, whether or not authorized by you. You agree to immediately notify BinkyBunny.com of any unauthorized use of your registration or password.

Copyrights, Trademarks, Intellectual Proprietary rights:

You acknowledge that (i) BinkyBunny.com permits access to content that is protected by copyrights, trademarks and other intellectual and proprietary rights (“Rights”); (ii) these Rights are valid and protected in all media and technologies existing now or later developed; and (iii) except as explicitly provided otherwise, the Terms of Service and applicable copyright, trademark and other laws govern your use of such content. You may not post to BinkyBunny.com, copy, reproduce, retransmit, distribute, publish, commercially exploit or otherwise transfer any material subject to any Rights. The burden of determining that any information, software, images or any other content on BinkyBunny.com is not protected by Rights rests with you. You acknowledge that BinkyBunny.com may acquire Rights to use any posted materials as described below, and that you will not acquire any of those Rights by downloading such materials.

By submitting content, which shall include your member name, to any “public area” of BinkyBunny.com, including message boards, forums, galleries, blogs and contests, you grant BinkyBunny.com a royalty-free, perpetual, irrevocable, non-exclusive right (including any moral rights) and license to use, license, reproduce, modify, adapt, publish, translate, create derivative works from, distribute, derive revenue or other remuneration from, communicate to the public, perform and display the content (in whole or in part) worldwide and/or to incorporate it in other works in any form, media, or technology now known or later developed, for the full term of any Rights that may exist in such content. You also warrant that the holder of any Rights, including moral rights in such content, has completely and effectively waived all such rights and validly and irrevocably granted to you the right to grant the license stated above. You also permit any subscriber to access, display, view, store and reproduce such content for personal use. Subject to the foregoing, the owner of such content placed on BinkyBunny.com retains any and all Rights that may exist in such content.

ANYTHING CONTAINED HEREIN TO THE CONTRARY NOTWITHSTANDING, BY SUBMITTING CONTENT TO ANY MESSAGE BOARDS,BLOGS, TIPS, GALLERIES, QUESTION AND ANSWER FORUMS, CONTESTS OR ANY OTHER AREA ON BINKYBUNNY.COM, YOU HEREBY EXPRESSLY PERMIT BINKYBUNNY.COM TO IDENTIFY YOU AS THE CONTRIBUTOR OF SUCH CONTENT IN ANY PUBLICATION IN ANY FORM, MEDIA OR TECHNOLOGY NOW KNOWN OR LATER DEVELOPED IN CONNECTION WITH THE CONTENT,

Notification of Any Possible Copyright Infringement

In the event you believe that material or content published on BinkyBunny.com may infringe on your copyright please provide detailed written notice of such possible infringement to:

BinkyBunny.com, 1933 Davis St, #254

or send a detailed e-mail message to info@binkybunny.com or call 510-747-9067

Disclaimer of Warranties

YOU EXPRESSLY AGREE THAT USE OF BINKYBUNNY.COM, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO ALL CONTENT, SERVICES, DIGITAL PRODUCTS, COURSES, EVENTS, TOOLS AND PRODUCTS PURCHASED THROUGH BINKYBUNNY.COM, IS AT YOUR SOLE RISK. BINKYBUNNY.COM IS PROVIDED ON AN “AS IS” AND “AS AVAILABLE” BASIS. BINKYBUNNY.COM EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ALL WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY WARRANTY OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR NON-INFRINGEMENT.

BINKYBUNNY.COM MAKES NO WARRANTY THAT BINKYBUNNY.COM WILL MEET YOUR REQUIREMENTS, OR THAT BINKYBUNNY.COM WILL BE UNINTERRUPTED, TIMELY, SECURE, OR ERROR FREE; NOR DOES BINKYBUNNY.COM MAKE ANY WARRANTY AS TO THE RESULTS THAT MAY BE OBTAINED FROM THE USE OF BINKYBUNNY.COM. BINKYBUNNY.COM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES, WHETHER FORSEEABLE OR NOT, WHICH MAY RESULT FROM THE UNAVAILABILITY OR MALFUNCTION OF BINKYBUNNY.COM.

YOU UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT ANY MATERIAL AND/OR DATA DOWNLOADED OR OTHERWISE OBTAINED THROUGH THE USE OF BINKYBUNNY.COM IS AT YOUR OWN DISCRETION AND RISK AND THAT YOU WILL BE SOLELY RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO YOUR COMPUTER SYSTEM OR LOSS OF DATA THAT RESULTS FROM THE DOWNLOAD OF SUCH MATERIAL AND/OR DATA.

YOU UNDERSTAND AND AGREE THAT BINKYBUNNY.COM DOES NOT GUARANTEE THE ACCURACY, COMPLETENESS OR USEFULNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OF ANY INFORMATION PROVIDED IN CONNECTION WITH BINKYBUNNY.COM. BINKYBUNNY.COM IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY ERRORS OR OMISSIONS OR FOR THE RESULTS OBTAINED FROM THE USE OF SUCH INFORMATION. THE INFORMATION IS PROVIDED WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT NEITHER BINKYBUNNY.COM NOR ITS MEMBERS, WHILE SUCH MEMBERS ARE PARTICIPATING IN BINKYBUNNY.COM, ARE ENGAGED IN MEDICAL, COUNSELING OR OTHER SERVICES OR ADVICE. BINKYBUNNY.COM ENCOURAGES YOU TO SEEK APPROPRIATE PROFESSIONAL ADVICE OR CARE FOR ANY SITUATION OR PROBLEM WHICH YOU MAY HAVE.

BINKYBUNNY.COM SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY LOSS OR DAMAGE CAUSED, OR ALLEGED TO HAVE BEEN CAUSED, DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY, BY THE INFORMATION OR IDEAS CONTAINED, SUGGESTED OR REFERENCED IN BINKYBUNNY.COM, ITS DIGITAL PRODUCTS OR SERVICES. YOUR PARTICIPATION IN BINKYBUNNY.COM IS SOLELY AT YOUR OWN RISK. NO ADVICE OR INFORMATION, WHETHER ORAL OR WRITTEN, OBTAINED BY YOU FROM BINKYBUNNY.COM OR THROUGH BINKYBUNNY.COM, ITS EMPLOYEES, CONSULTANTS AND/OR EXPERTS SHALL CREATE ANY WARRANTY NOT EXPRESSLY MADE HEREIN.

BINKYBUNNY.COM MAKES NO WARRANTY REGARDING ANY GOODS, SERVICES, DIGITAL PRODUCTS, EVENTS, COURSES, CONTENT, TOOLS OR PRODUCTS PURCHASED OR OBTAINED THROUGH BINKYBUNNY.COM OR ANY TRANSACTIONS ENTERED INTO THROUGH BINKYBUNNY.COM.

BINKYBUNNY.COM IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY CONTENT ON THE INTERNET OR WORLD WIDE WEB PAGES THAT IS CONTAINED OUTSIDE BINKYBUNNY.COM. AS A CONVENIENCE TO OUR MEMBERS, WE MAY WE MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS AS TO THE QUALITY, SUITABILITY, FUNCTIONALITY OR LEGALITY OF ANY SITES TO WHICH BINKYBUNNY.COM MAY PROVIDE LINKS, AND YOU HEREBY WAIVE ANY CLAIM YOU MIGHT HAVE AGAINST BINKYBUNNY.COM WITH RESPECT TO SUCH SITES.

BY PERMITTING CLASSIFIED AND PERSONAL ADVERTISING, BINKYBUNNY.COM MAKES NO WARRANTIES OR REPRESENTATIONS OF ANY KIND AS TO THE ACCURACY OF THE CONTENT OR SUITABILITY OF THE SUBJECT MATTER OF ANY SUCH ADVERTISEMENT. BINKYBUNNY.COM SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIMS LIABILITY FOR DIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES ARISING FROM SUCH ADVERTISEMENTS. BY POSTING A PERSONAL OR CLASSIFIED ADVERTISEMENT ON BINKYBUNNY.COM, YOU ARE PROMISING THAT THE CONTENT OF YOUR ADVERTISEMENT IS TRUE AND THAT YOU WILL INDEMNIFY BINKYBUNNY.COM AGAINST ANY CLAIMS WHICH MAY ARISE FROM YOUR ADVERTISEMENTS. BY RESPONDING TO A CLASSIFIED OR PERSONAL ADVERTISEMENT ON BINKYBUNNY.COM, YOU WAIVE ANY CLAIMS AGAINST BINKYBUNNY.COM FOR DAMAGES ARISING FROM SUCH ADVERTISEMENT OR YOUR RELIANCE UPON STATEMENTS IN SUCH ADVERTISEMENT.

Limitation of Liability

BINKYBUNNY.COM SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY DIRECT, INDIRECT, INCIDENTAL, SPECIAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, RESULTING FROM THE USE OR THE INABILITY TO USE BINKYBUNNY.COM OR FOR THE COST OF PROCUREMENT OF SUBSTITUTE GOODS AND SERVICES OR RESULTING FROM ANY GOODS, SERVICES, DIGITAL PRODUCTS, EVENTS, COURSES AND/OR CONTENT PURCHASED OR OBTAINED OR MESSAGES RECEIVED OR TRANSACTIONS ENTERED INTO THROUGH BINKYBUNNY.COM OR RESULTING FROM UNAUTHORIZED ACCESS TO OR ALTERATION OF YOUR TRANSMISSIONS OR DATA, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DAMAGES FOR LOSS OF PROFITS, USE, DATA OR OTHER INTANGIBLES EVEN IF BINKYBUNNY.COM HAS BEEN ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES.

Indemnification

You agree to indemnify and hold each of BinkyBunny.com, its parents, subsidiaries, affiliates, officers, directors, volunteer leaders and employees, harmless from any claim or demand, including reasonable attorneys’ fees, made by any third party due to or arising out of your use of BinkyBunny.com, the violation of these Terms of Service by you, or the infringement by you, or any other subscriber or user of your account, of any intellectual property or other right of any person or entity.

Applicable Law

These Terms of Service shall be governed by and construed in accordance with the laws of the State of California, without giving effect to its conflicts of laws provisions. By registering for or entering BinkyBunny.com, you consent and submit to the exclusive jurisdiction and venue of the state and federal courts located in San Francisco, California.

Miscellaneous

In the event that any provision of the Terms of Service conflicts with the law under which the Terms of Service are to be construed or if any such provisions are held invalid by a court with jurisdiction over the parties to the Terms of Service, such provision will be deemed to be restated to reflect as nearly as possible the original intentions of the parties in accordance with applicable law, and the remainder of these Terms of Service will remain in full force and effect.

The failure of either party to insist upon or enforce strict performance by the other party of any provision of the Terms of Service or to exercise any right under the Terms of Service will not be construed as a waiver or relinquishment to any extent of such party’s right to assert or rely upon any such provision or right in that or any other instance, rather, the same will be and remain in full force and effect.

BinkyBunny.com may assign its rights and obligations under these Terms of Service and upon such assignment BinkyBunny.com may be relieved of any further obligation hereunder.

You represent to BinkyBunny.com that you have the authority to register with or visit BinkyBunny.com according to these Terms of Service. BinkyBunny.com does not encourage, solicit, or permit visitors who are known to be under the age of 13 to become a member of or visit BinkyBunny.com.

These Terms of Service and any Additional Terms (as such terms shall be identified when posted on BinkyBunny.com by BinkyBunny.com) constitute the entire understanding between the parties as to the subject matter hereof, and supersede all prior agreements and understandings. Any legally unenforceable provision of these Terms of Service will, at the election of BinkyBunny.com, be deleted or modified to correct the defect and, regardless, the remainder of the terms of these Terms of Service will remain valid and enforceable.

BinkyBunny.com reserves the right to terminate free access to BinkyBunny.com including any or all content, services, digital products, products, events, courses or tools with or without notice to you. BinkyBunny.com reserves the right (at BinkyBunny.com’s discretion) to provide you with notice of such change by prominently posting a notice on BinkyBunny.com and/or sending written notice to you at any e-mail and/or post office address you have provided to BinkyBunny.com. Once free access is terminated BinkyBunny.com may charge each subscriber any applicable fee, surcharge and/or membership fee for access to BinkyBunny.com and/or any for-pay content, services, digital products, products, events, tools or products.

International Information

The Site may provide access to international data about BinkyBunny.com, its suppliers or licensors, or other third parties, and therefore, may contain references or cross references to products, programs, and services that are not available in your country. Such references do not imply that BinkyBunny.com, its suppliers or licensors, or other third parties intend to make available such products, programs or services in your country.

Acceptance of Terms of Service

BinkyBunny.com is provided free of charge to you (unless otherwise indicated), by BinkyBunny.com and its subsidiaries and affiliates that utilize these Terms of Service (“BinkyBunny.com”). “BinkyBunny.com” is defined as all English language United States based web site, web pages and channels owned controlled and/or operated by BinkyBunny.com where these Terms of Service are posted, including but not limited to all content, tools, quizzes, digital products, events, courses and/or products appearing throughout. Although portions of BinkyBunny.com may be viewed simply by visiting the web site, in order to access the message boards and/or receive additional services from BinkyBunny.com you need to sign on as a guest or register as a member of BinkyBunny.com. If you sign on to BinkyBunny.com as a guest, these Terms of Service will govern your use of BinkyBunny.com, including access to message boards and other features. If you register as a member of BinkyBunny.com, these Terms of Service will govern your use of BinkyBunny.com, including access to the forum and blogs that may be provided to you in connection with BinkyBunny.com and other features.

These Terms of Service, together with any applicable additional Terms of Service posted in connection with a particular service, content,product digital product, event or course govern your use of BinkyBunny.com and all services, products, digital products events and courses provided in connection with BinkyBunny.com, including but not limited to any course, service, product, digital product, events or personal website provided to you by BinkyBunny.com. BinkyBunny.com shall not be liable to you for any breach of these Terms of Service. If you do not agree to these Terms of Service, please do not register for or enter BinkyBunny.com. The Terms of Service for your continued use of BinkyBunny.com will be available throughout BinkyBunny.com. Please check these areas before using BinkyBunny.com to determine whether a change has been made to these Terms of Service. If you do not agree to these changes in the Terms of Service as they may occur, please arrange to terminate your registration with BinkyBunny.com immediately by (i) notifying BinkyBunny.com of your unwillingness to accept the changes to the Terms of Service; and (ii) discontinuing your use of BinkyBunny.com. Your continued use of BinkyBunny.com will signify your acceptance of any change in the terms and conditions set forth herein. Unauthorized access, distribution, reproduction, copying, retransmission, publication, sale, exploitation (commercial or otherwise), or any other form of transfer of any portion of BinkyBunny.com, including but not limited to all content, services, digital products, courses, events, tools or products is hereby expressly prohibited.

From time to time BinkyBunny.com may supplement these Terms of Service with additional terms pertaining to specific content, services, products. digital products, courses or events (“Additional Terms”), which Additional Terms may be placed on BinkyBunny.com to be viewed in connection with the specific content, services, products, digital products, courses or events and shall be identified as such. You understand and agree that such Additional Terms are hereby incorporated by reference into these Terms of Service.

Contact Us

If you have questions about these Terms and Notices, or want to contact us for any reason, please send us an e-mail at info@binkybunny.com.

AND FINALLY:

You represent to BinkyBunny.com that you have the authority to register with or visit BinkyBunny.com according to these Terms of Service. BinkyBunny.com does not encourage, solicit, or permit visitors who are known to be under the age of 13 to become a member of or visit BinkyBunny.com

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