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What medicines were you given? I am confused by “flu medicine”. True rabbit allergies are generally rare — a URI is much more common. I anticipated you would receive a single antibiotic. Is the vet rabbit-experienced?

Note that if you do not see improvement or things worsen within 5 days on this antibiotic, it likely is not effective against…[Read more]

Another thought, if you are unsure what an ingredient really is….wheat middlings is a scary one…Google it.

Research and education on your part will go a long way on your piece of mind.

Buy a few different types, see what they like and how often they go through it…that will give you a general idea of how long it will last and how much to order if you’d like to stock up.

Is there a reason you steer clear of Kaytee?

While in general, a lot of Kaytee products are junk, I’ve found their hay is ok and seems to be readily available. The only issue I’ve ever had with it is some of the hay that was supposed to have goodies in it (carrots, marigolds and something) did not.  I let them know and got coupons.

But I don’t…[Read more]

+ update 

Yesterday I went to the vet and the doctor diagnosed him as either allergy or respiratory infection since there were no samples or any evidence for him to know where and how it started (even I),, thankfully with the advice given I quickly brought moon the doctors and got his antibiotic and flu medicine before anything got bad or his…[Read more]

I think anyone can find something “wrong” with anything. 🙂

I’m not sure why the food you listed has wheat, but that is why I wouldn’t use it.

Look at them all and find the one with the least amount of fillers that you are comfortable using.

I will be adamant that you should not use any product containing soy, particularly for females.

Oh my god, that is a Bee-U-Tee-Full bunny!!!!

If you ever have to leave the country and can’t take her, teleport her my way,!!😁🤪🤣

That all sounds really great! I wouldn’t change anything for a few more dates, then start increasing the length of the sessions.

I usually don’t add litter boxes until the dates are at least several hours long and/or they seem pretty much bonded. I tend to use litter boxes as a final test to see how they’re doing, as in my experience only bonded…[Read more]

I would introduce litter boxes into neutral once things are consistently positive in neutral. This is a nice way to see how the dynamic reacts/adapts to a potential territorial dispute. If it starts causing issues, I’d take it out and keep going with just hay on the floor or something and try again later.

Tipper spent about 2 min grooming Sweetie and then groomed her a couple more times (shorter) throughout their session ❤️

They are definitely still sorting things out with some nipping and humping (all Tipper) but you guys were spot on with the advice to back off a bit, so thank you so much!!!

Do you typically wait until they’re fully bonded to a…[Read more]

Hahah gotcha!

Also to clarify they had one bad fight. One scratch below the smaller ones eye but mostly white fur of the larger bunny around the room. But then they were next to each other and we separated again. They broke through the pin but we blocked the hole they made and it’s been good since. One point one of the bunnies got through the same hole when I d…[Read more]

So for clarification on the pen. They can see out. It’s mesh you can look through but for sure shades the inside area. They can see through the top and I have their food areas near each other’s just on either side one inside the pen one outside it you can see through the side and the top.

I agree, this is likely an overproduction of cecotropes due to improper diet. Avoid sugary treats until your bunny is older. And yes, it’s s good idea to switch her to a healthier pellet… even if they aren’t the source of the problem, they are not good for her in the longterm.