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Forum DIET & CARE Poop on coat (cecotropes?)

Viewing 15 reply threads
  • Author

    • BooBooBunny
      30 posts Send Private Message

        Hello all.  I guess this is a few related questions.  More and more I have been noticing droppings shaped like little grape clusters (funny when I saw that a few posts down on here, since I always thought it was kind of gross that they reminded me of exactly that!), which from what I understand are cecotropes, in Boo’s litter box.  The issue is that since these are always mushier in nature than regular droppings, and larger,  he often ends up getting it smeared on his feet or on his rear end.  Also for whatever reason, he sometimes does these on top of his little house (wood box) in his cage.  So I have not only the problem of him having this stuck in his fur on occasion, but I can’t keep up with cleaning it off the top of his ‘house’. 

        So, I guess my questions are: Does anyone have any tips for preventing this (if there really is any way to, which I doubt), or at least cleaning him up? His cage can be perfectly spotlessly clean, but its like the second he gets back in he poops one of those out  and gets it smeared on himself.  I really doubt he would tolerate much water touching him, and I obviously don’t think a bath is a great idea.  And he is a Rex, so his short coat makes me nervous that if he gets it dried in his hair his skin could get easily irritated underneath. 

        Also, any tips on keeping his little ‘house’ clean?  In the summer I could take it outside and scrub and scrape at it for a while and let it dry, but thats more difficult to do now that its colder.  Not to mention that took forever to get clean and let dry, and an hour later there is always poop on it again.

        And the last question is should I be worried that I am seeing so many of these cecotropes in his cage?  I know rabbits should be reingesting these, and I guess I don’t know how many he ate that I’m not seeing, i just don’t know if its normal for him not to eat them right away (my guinea pigs always reached around and ate them the second they came out, so i guess I just figured Boo did the same and never gave it much thought).  He seems to be in good health and acting normally, so I’ve not worried about it much yet.

        Hopefully someone has some tips or insights for me, thanks in advance!

      • Elena Niznik
        132 posts Send Private Message

          Hi booboobunny ( nice name my bunny is called that too) what your describing does sound like cecal pellets.
          The only thing i can really suggest is too find out why Boo isnt reingesting them. it could be a number of things.

          I had a similar problem with my bun and found it was becos my flat mate had been sneeking her treats when i wasnt looking. Too much treats and too much sugary stuff might cos boo to over produce his cecal pellets.

          He might also be a tad over weight or sore meaning he cant reach his butt properly to remove them.

          It could also be that he might have a little tummy upset. The flora and fauna in his tum might be a little inbalanced.

          But im not vet and no expert so if your concerned i would get him a check up.

          There has been some similar posts about butt baths and how to give them without causing your bunny stress if i wasnt a total techno phobe i would insert a link but i really dnt know how.

          Binkybunny will be able to give good advice one of her buns has a crooked spine so she needs butt baths quite ofetn.
          hope that helps

        • BooBooBunny
          30 posts Send Private Message

            Thanks for the suggestions tallullu (it does appear that Boo is a popular bunny name, doesn’t it?  His *real* and official name that he had from his previous owner is Sugar, but somehow I ended up calling him Boo Boo as a nickname and I guess it kind of stuck). 
            I had kind of suspected that him eating to many sugary things may be the cause of the cecotrope overproduction.  Although I am ashamed to admit it since I should know better, I know that he gets WAY to many treats.  Its getting to the point where he hardly even cares for fresh fruit anymore let alone vegetables becuase hes holding out for treats (turns out the name Sugar was more appropriate for him than I realized!).  I’ve been trying to slowly cut back on the amount of treats he gets per day, but he has me trained well and knows how to be extra cute and break my resolve.  Or for example, when he goes back in his cage at night i always gave him three little treats, so i’ve been trying to cut back to 2 treats instead (baby steps), but he always sniffs around looking for the third one and  then stands up and looks at me everytime like "well, quit holding out on me,  wheres the other one?"  Who knew rabbits could count. 
            Oh well, I guess this just confirms what I probably already knew:  I need restrict the processed treats much much more than I do.  Not to mention he may also be overweight. I don’t really know since hes my first  and only rabbit, but I’ve had other rabbit owners comment on his size when they’ve seen pictures of him.  He never looked all that big to me, but then again he is starting to look like he has a pregnant belly when he flops over on his side!
            Thanks again for the help, I guess I will get to work trying to figure out how to cut back on the treats and how resist his attempts at coercing them from me with super-cuteness!

          • Gravehearted
            2428 posts Send Private Message

              yes – it’s hard to say no to those cute little faces, but limited him treats likely will really help him stay healthy. the excessive cecotropes are a concern, but all the sugar can lead to an imbalance of the flora and fauna in his tummy. this will lead to stasis and other problems, so cutting down on the treats is important. when he’s making a cute face, give him a toy instead. nothing’s better than a paper towel core that mommy’s holding the other end of! 🙂

              Is he over 7 months? if so, it’s important that his pellets are timothy based and that it’s a limited amout. my kids get 1/4 cup a day each and they all weigh 5 -6 pounds. overfeeding pellets is one of the main causes of obesity in bunnies.

              you can try to spot wash the poopybutt with damp paper towels (warm water) you may have to work at it a bit. if that doesn’t work – you can give him a bath in an inch or so of warm water in the sink.

            • BinkyBunny
              8776 posts Send Private Message

                Well, you’ve gotten some good tips, stuff you already knew – about cutting back on treats.  Some bunnies are also just more sensitive.  What might not be too much for one, will be an overload for another.  Some bunnies just can’t even the tiniest treat, so you have to adjust according to the results  you’re getting.

                I totally understand the smeared poop problem on everything. That stuff could be used as the toughest glue around – super poop glue!!  What I do is spray water on it and let ii soak in and get soft (takes about 10 minutes) and then wipe off.  If there is any left I do it again. To prevent  Bailey from walking in the water soaked poop, I just let her out or put her somewhere else during those few minutes.

                You were also saying that your bunny has a big belly?  IF that is the case, that could be contributing to him not being able to reach the cecals well enough, so they end up smushing on his behind, or flying off in as mush missles.  GROSS.  I know. It happens to poor Bailey even with her normal ones because of her spine issue.   But I do find that if I force her to eat more hay, and keep her fiber up, then even with her problem the cecals are  formed and firm enough so that they come off easily when she’s walking around, and it leaves her behind clean.

                She’ll then usually go back and redigest them from the ground.


              • Elena Niznik
                132 posts Send Private Message

                  i give my Boo grapes as an extra special treat but I read this tip that one grape casn be cut into four pieces so the treats seem to go further ur bunny will never know. u can do the same for most treats one thin stick of carrot can be cut into two its a good way of cutting down boos sugar intake but still letting him have treats.Natural treats are also the best in limiting his sugar intake.

                • BooBooBunny
                  30 posts Send Private Message

                    Thanks so much for all the tips and advice!  I’ve been gradually cutting back on the treats, even when he tries his hardest with his adorable hungry bunny act.  I’ve noticed that there arn’t so many of the cecotropes laying around, but still seems like there could be even less (hopefully we’re working towards that though).  It does seem like he has the greatest abundance of them right after I clean the litter box though, its like hes does it on purpose.  Maybe I just notice them more then since its clean.

                    As for what kind of pellets he eats, I already know that they arn’t  what he should be getting.  I feed him  1/4 cup  a day of "Nutriphase Gold" rabbit food, and it has the little pieces of ‘junk food’ (dried carrots, dog biscuity thingies, etc) that I know he shouldn’t be eating, and those are definately the first thing he goes for in the morning when he shoves my hand out of the way after I put it in his bowl.  It does have timothy hay listed as an ingredient, but alfalfa is first so I’m guessing that means that ones the primary ingredient.  I’m embarassed yet again, because I should know better, but I started feeding my guinea pigs the guinea pig version of this food becuase they wern’t eating their pellets and I thought the ‘treats’ in it would entice them, so when I got Boo I just got the same brand for him, only he empties his bowl usually, where the piggies never did. 

                    All the foods at the pet store seem to be alfalfa based from what I can tell though, so I’d like to get some of the Ox-Bow pellets since I’ve heard/read so much good stuff about them.  Unfortunately the only location that sells them near by that came up on their website is still a bit out of the way for me, and this busy time of the year its even more difficult to make a special trip out there.  But, when I do get out that way I intend to buy some and start him (gradually) on that instead. 

                    I don’t know that I’d do it, but I’ve heard that rabbits don’t even need pellets as long as they have access to unlimited timothy hay, is that true?  Thats about the only thing left thats good for him that he still eats lots of.

                    Thanks again for all the help, hopefully I can persevere on the diet thing and correct the problem completley soon!

                  • BinkyBunny
                    8776 posts Send Private Message

                      No need to be embarrassed.  We all learn by not knowing something in the first place.  And then many times even when we know, taking action isn’t always easy to do right away.   It looks like your making plans to switch soon, so that will be good.   If Oxbow isn’t carried nearby,  there are also other brands, like American Diner.    Also, as long as it’s timothy based, not alfalfa, you might be able to locate a good brand nearby.  Best if it’s at least 18% fiber,  low in fat – like around 2% or lower. 

                      Regarding feeding only hay.  I have read about that.  Part of the reason that it is believed to be fine is because most pellets are too rich for a rabbit’s body which because of a bunny’s genetic make-up (being able to adapt with little nutrients), its digestive system reuses low nutrient foods (via ceceotropes), and now that pellets give them everything they need in one big punch, their digestive systems get overloaded with nutrients  – more than their body has been designed to handle (unless they are in a constant breeding situation – when they need more nutrients), but just for our little ‘ol house rabbit, most pellets are just too rich.   (which can cause an excess of those sticky smelly poos)   Are you thinking of only giving hay, or will you also be feeding greens. As far as if it’s just as healthy?

                      I know thatt other arguments though for including a "healthy lean pellet" in the diet, and I can’t fully back the "Hay Only" diet, only because I just don’t have enough personal experience or updated information about it.

                      But this is another thing, I will ask some other rabbit savvy people about, and give  you an update on what I find out.

                    • Hilde
                      31 posts Send Private Message

                        Hi all, here’s a very good article on bunny diet, from a very rabbit-savy vet. It’s long, but I hope you don’t mind.

                        Diet – The House Rabbit Society

                        Rabbit GI Physiology and Nutrition

                        Susan A. Brown, D.V.M
                        Midwest Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital
                        Westchester, IL 60154

                        Rabbits are strict herbivores. Their relatively small body size makes
                        it difficult to store large volumes of coarse fiber as might be done
                        in the cow or horse. The gastrointestinal tract (GIT) attempts to
                        eliminate fiber as quickly as possible. Large fiber particles
                        stimulate motility of the GIT. The rabbit then utilizes the non-fiber
                        portion of the food to produce the nutrients that are needed for
                        life, some of which are absorbed directly from the GIT and some of
                        which are reingested in the form of cecotropes. This particular
                        system allows for a large volume of food intake, with a rapid
                        digestive transit time thus increasing the total amount of energy
                        stored and minimizing the need to store fiber.

                        Ingested food first enters the stomach, where the pH is approximately
                        1-2 creating very acidic environment. Preweaning rabbits have a
                        stomach pH much closer to neutral (5-6.5) which allows bacterial
                        flora to be initiated into the GIT. After weaning the pH drops
                        dramatically. It is not known what the pH of the stomach is in all
                        states of disease or anorexia and even in health the pH may not be
                        constant. However, published research tends to support that the
                        stomach environment is normally quite acidic.

                        Ingesta in the stomach is essentially sterilized, massaged a bit and
                        broken down into smaller particles. It then moves into and through
                        the small intestine where nutrients are extracted, and more water is
                        added resulting in a fluid content. It may take several days for the
                        stomach to completely empty, so fasting a rabbit to empty its GIT for
                        diagnostic testing as in the case of radiography to detect a gastric
                        foreign body, generally does not work. In addition, the fasting
                        itself will slow down gut motility because the fiber which “drives”
                        the system is not being taken in. It is not recommended to fast a
                        rabbit prior to a surgical procedure. Rabbits do not have ability to

                        At the end of the small intestine is the ileocecocolonic junction.
                        The cecum is a large blind sac in which resides a specific population
                        of bacteria that break down digestible fiber whereas the indigestible
                        fiber drives the GI tract and keeps things moving. Through bacterial
                        fermentation proteins, fatty acids and certain vitamins are produced.
                        Some of these items are directly absorbed thorough the wall of the
                        cecum, but most are returned to the rabbit when it eats the
                        cecotropes which are formed nutrient rich “feces” that come directly
                        from the cecum. Hard waste feces (what is found on the floor of the
                        cage) which have a high fiber content, are produced for approximately
                        the first four hours after the rabbit eats its food and the
                        cecotropes are produced during the next four hours (therefore not
                        only at night). The cecotropes are ingested directly from the anus,
                        have a mucous coating, are soft, moist have a stronger odor and are
                        brighter green color that the dry waste feces. This mucous coating
                        helps to protect the microflora through the acid pH of the stomach.
                        The dominant bacteria in the cecum of the healthy adult rabbit is
                        Bacteriodes with small amounts of Clostridium sp. and E. coli. Note
                        that Lactobacillus species are not common or normal inhabitants of
                        the adult rabbit GIT, therefore, in my opinion it makes no sense to
                        feed products that contain Lactobacillus to our pets. In addition,
                        unprotected live bacterial products fed to a rabbit will be destroyed
                        in the very acid pH of the stomach. If we truly want to repopulate to
                        GIT with healthy bacteria, we should be using the species that are
                        normally present in health. Some practitioners have advocated giving
                        the fresh cecotropes of healthy rabbits to ill patients. This is
                        probably not a bad idea, but the problem is that it may be difficult
                        to collect the cecotropes due to the fact that rabbits eat them
                        directly and the healthy individual doesn’t usually “drop” them in
                        the cage unless they have a collar placed on them, which is
                        stressful. If cecotropes are used, they must be retained in their
                        “whole” form to protect their mucous coating (i.e. not ground up).
                        Probably only 2 or 3 cecotropes are needed.

                        When the liquid small intestinal contents get to the area of the
                        junction of the large intestine and cecum it enters sac-like areas in
                        the wall of the cecum and colon called haustra which move food along
                        by muscular contractions. When the liquid small intestinal contents
                        reach this junction the long fibers are separated from the digestible
                        portion of the food and moved into the center of the colon where they
                        become the hard, dry waste feces and are passed out of the body. The
                        digestible portion of the intestinal contents are moved into the
                        cecum to undergo fermentation. The haustra move the liquid ingesta
                        back and forth in the cecum and in the colon continually separating
                        fiber from digestible particles. In fact, in the colon, water is
                        actually excreted into the lumen to aid in the separation of fiber
                        and non-fiber portions. The large fibers are moved towards the center
                        of the lumen and the digestible particles accumulate along the wall
                        in the haustra of the large intestine. These digestible particles are
                        then are moved in a retrograde fashion back into the cecum.

                        There is a constant flux back and forth in the cecum and upper third
                        of the colon to mix and separate food particles. Because it is so
                        important to have a liquid consistency to the ingesta in this area to
                        allow sorting of materials, it could be detrimental to administer
                        such materials as psyillium (Metamucil) to rabbits, because these
                        products tend to absorb moisture to create bulk and the end result
                        may actually be constipation.

                        So back to diet of the HOUSE RABBIT….I want to stress that we are
                        speaking here of the nonproduction, nonreproductive house pet
                        specifically. We recommend feeding the house rabbit a diet that is
                        high in fiber and relatively low in calories (especially fats and
                        starches). Unfortunately, over the years, we have seen pelleted diets
                        become a problem in the maintenance of the house rabbit. Pelleted
                        diets were originally formulated for the rapid growth and ease of
                        care of the meat or fur production rabbit, and for laboratory
                        rabbits. Most of these rabbits were not meant to live out their full
                        life span. The pellets perform an excellent function in these
                        situations, as they produce rapid growth, good weight gain, are
                        efficient, economical and easy to feed. The problem comes when we
                        have a house rabbit that is usually neutered, is expected to live out
                        its full life potential, and unfortunately may not get all the
                        exercise it needs. Pelleted diets are typically made up of chopped,
                        compressed alfalfa hay, various grains and other added nutrients.
                        Grains can be quite high in calories (starches and fats) and usually
                        lower in fiber than just hay. The alfalfa hay in pellets is chopped
                        and compressed and heated and may lose some of its fiber quality.

                        The problems that we and other practitioners have seen over the years
                        when pets are fed an unlimited primary pelleted diet are obesity,
                        chronic soft stools (mixed with normal stools) and periodic bouts of
                        anorexia (commonly known as “hairballs”, but what I feel is more
                        likely a GIT motility problem.) We have also seen less frequently,
                        calcification of blood vessels (some pellets are quite high in
                        calcium), and bladder and kidney stones. I am not going to say that
                        all of these problems are entirely caused by the diet, but my
                        observation is that diet plays a very big role. If we correct the
                        diet, then we can attend to other factors that may be still be
                        present. Some manufacturers of pellets have been sensitive to the
                        needs of the house rabbit and are producing higher fiber and lower
                        calorie pellets. Unfortunately other manufacturers have gone the
                        opposite direction and have decided to add all kinds of dangerous
                        things to the pellet mix such as seeds, nuts and additional grains in
                        the name of marketing without sufficient knowledge of what the
                        consequences can be. Regardless, I think that those of us who deal
                        with house rabbits should not depend on pellets as the total food
                        source for our house rabbits.

                        The diet that we recommend for the ADULT, NONREPRODUCTIVE HOUSE
                        RABBIT (and we did not “originate” this, there are plenty of
                        practitioners around who have done this for years) is no more than
                        1/8 cup/4 lbs. of body weight of a high fiber maintenance type pellet
                        (18% or higher fiber) per day. (Some adult animals are given no
                        pellets at all if they have trouble losing weight or have chronic GIT
                        problems). In young growing animals the pellets may be given free
                        choice until they are about 6-8 months of age, then cut back to the
                        maintenance amount. Fresh hay should be offered FREE CHOICE
                        throughout the pet’s life. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS
                        DIET AND MUST BE AVAILABLE ALL THE TIME. Young bunnies should be
                        exposed to hay as soon as they can eat on their own. Mixed grass hay
                        or timothy hay is the preferred type because it is lower in calcium
                        and calories than alfalfa hay. Try contacting a horse barn or feed
                        store for your source. If you have three or more bunnies, just buy a
                        bale and store it in a cool dry place, because you will use it up
                        quickly! If you cannot get the grass hay, then use alfalfa, but be
                        cautioned that it is much higher in calories, and calcium. I prefer
                        that rabbits on 100% alfalfa hay not get pellets at all, because it
                        is somewhat redundant.

                        We also like for our bunnies to get greens and lots of them. We pick
                        the tough fibrous greens which are rich in a variety of nutrients. We
                        suggest feeding a minimum of 3 types daily in a total MINIMUM total
                        amount (of all types of greens together) of 1 heaping cup/4 lbs. body
                        weight. Note, that this is a minimum, because as the bunny adjusts to
                        it more can be fed. By feeding several types of greens daily, you
                        will provide a variety of nutrients as well as not creating a finicky
                        rabbit. Some of the excellent greens are kale, collards, beet tops,
                        carrot tops, parsley, dandelion greens, mustard greens, romaine
                        lettuce, broccoli leaves, Brussels sprouts, outer cabbage leaves,
                        raspberry leaves, peppermint leaves, escarole, endive, raddichio,
                        wheat grass, alfalfa sprouts, etc. Don’t feed light colored greens
                        (i.e. iceberg and bibb lettuce) or the mixed gourmet greens in a bag
                        as the only source. Other vegetables such as carrots, pea pods (not
                        the peas), green pepper, squash, can be fed. Stay away from starchy
                        foods such as legumes (beans and peas) and corn and other grains.
                        Fruit can also be fed with some restrictions. Stay with high fiber
                        fruits such as apples, pears, peaches, papaya, pineapple, and
                        strawberries, but stay away from sugary fruits such as bananas and
                        grapes. The fruit and vegetables we feed in the amounts of 1 -2
                        Tablespoon/4 lbs. body weight daily.

                        Do not feed grains such as oats, corn, wheat, crackers, Cheerios,
                        bread, crackers, pasta, etc. There is research to suggest that high
                        starch and low fiber diets may be two of the contributing factors to
                        often fatal cases of enterotoxemia. Enterotoxemia can be caused by
                        changes in cecal pH resulting in the overgrowth of certain bacteria
                        that produce dangerous iota toxins that when absorbed into the body
                        ultimately lead to death. I know the bunnies love this stuff and in
                        small amounts, and in adult rabbits it wouldn’t normally be a
                        problem, but often clients overdo and it may result in serious GIT
                        disease. We have seen rabbits that continued to have periodic soft
                        stools when all else was corrected about the diet, yet they still got
                        two crackers a day. When the crackers were removed, the stools
                        returned to normal.

                        For obese rabbits and those that have that chronic intermittent soft
                        stool mixed with normal stool, I take them entirely off of pellets
                        and feed only hay free choice for two weeks. Then I will add back in
                        some greens and then eventually try them on small amounts of pellets.
                        Obviously, you must make sure that the rabbit is eating hay before
                        embarking on this diet, or else it might starve. In addition the
                        bunny should have a thorough physical examination and diagnostic
                        tests, if appropriate, to rule out other disorders prior to starting
                        this diet. Removing all the pellets from the diet sounds drastic, but
                        it works well and the bunnies seem happier and more lively as the GIT
                        starts to work more normally again. I have had clients tell me about
                        complete personality changes (for the better usually) when we got the
                        weight off their pets or got rid of those soft stools that stick all
                        over the fur and make the rabbits and the owner miserable. Some
                        rabbits can never go back on pellets again, because the soft stools
                        may return or the weight goes back up. In addition, rabbits that have
                        renal or bladder stones will also be taken off pellets and alfalfa
                        hay for life to help reduce the calcium intake.

                        I feel that it is a mistake to “fast” rabbits for long periods each
                        day to reduce weight, as in the cases where rabbits may be given
                        pellets for only a certain amount of time a day. This leaves the pet
                        with nothing to do physiologically and mentally for long hours. In an
                        animal that was designed to eat large amounts of food frequently it
                        can be frustrating and stressful. In addition, I fear that it may
                        lead to a sluggish GIT due to lack of stimulation. These pets will
                        frequently start eating paper, wood and anything else they can get
                        their teeth on the stave off their cravings. How often have you seen
                        the pet that has stopped eating pellets, but eats all the newspaper
                        in the cage? These pets are usually not on unlimited (or usually any)
                        hay or greens and are craving fiber.

                        Practitioners worry that if we take the rabbits off the pellets, they
                        will not get all the nutrients, vitamins and minerals that they are
                        supposed to get. Remember, that the rabbit manufactures its own rich
                        supply of nutrients in the cecum in the form of the cecotropes,
                        because they were designed to be able to live off of a “poor” quality
                        diet in the wild. I have not yet able to detect nutritional
                        deficiencies on the diet we recommend and we have been recommending
                        it for at least 5 years. In addition I rarely see a case of
                        “hairball” on this diet. The cases of “hairball” that we see in the
                        practice are on a primary pellet diet with little or no hay or
                        greens. In my opinion, “hairballs” are an accumulation of ingesta an
                        hair that takes place over time due to low GIT motility, until it
                        reaches such a size that the rabbit stops eating. Treatment for this
                        problem is aimed primarily at correcting the underlying dietary

                        As far as other supplements. … There has been a lot of talk about
                        using enzymes, and bacteria, etc. I think that these things do no
                        harm, but are not necessary when the pet in put on a more “natural”
                        diet. I used to recommend some of these items myself, no longer
                        because I do not see the need to do so. I would like to see those
                        people who are using these products first make the diet changes as
                        suggested in this article and then be able to quantitatively document
                        that the addition of the other “supplements” made any difference in
                        the appearance or behavior of their pet. I certainly have been proven
                        wrong before, but I feel more scientific research needs to be done on
                        these various supplements to really determine if they are making a

                        I will stress that there are a wide variety of diseases that can
                        affect the rabbit and certainly they are not all going to be cured by
                        a diet change. There must be a thorough physical examination and
                        appropriate diagnostic testing performed prior to any drastic life
                        style change for the pet.

                        Let’s feed our pets the way they were designed to eat..lots of food
                        with high fiber content. When they can “fill up” on hay and greens,
                        many of them lose interest in chewing up paper and furniture
                        (although they never lose interest in electrical cords). Let them out
                        to exercise also, to get the weight off, keep it off and keep all the
                        body’s systems in good working order.

                      • Gravehearted
                        2428 posts Send Private Message

                          my guess is that if you switch over to a timothy based pellet it will really help. according to my vet the major cause for obesity in bunnies is alfalfa based pellets, particularly if they’re not measured.. I’d be inclined to see if that cuts down on the excessive loose poops before switching over to entirely hay. Also, as you switch foods, you’ll want to switch gradually over several weeks.

                        • dmh426
                          433 posts Send Private Message

                            Hi there. I completely agree with everything above, but just wanted to add a bit. Sometimes the more water based fruits and veggies with do this to the cecotropes. The grapes especially, girl! This is the same reason we’re told not to give bunnies iceburg lettuce-mostly water and no nutritional value. I would make sure your baby has plenty of hay at all times and monitor to see if any specific fruits or vegetables cause this reaction.

                            As far as cleaning the house (happy that you don’t call it a cage either, it’s not a cage, it’s a comfy home!) I have a spray bottle with vinegar that is diluted with water. Perfect cleaner for the bunny house. Non-toxic and does a great job.

                          • BinkyBunny
                            8776 posts Send Private Message
                              Posted By dmh426 on 12/12/2006 4:59 PM
                              Hi there. I completely agree with everything above, but just wanted to add a bit. Sometimes the more water based fruits and veggies with do this to the cecotropes. The grapes especially, girl! This is the same reason we’re told not to give bunnies iceburg lettuce-mostly water and no nutritional value. I would make sure your baby has plenty of hay at all times and monitor to see if any specific fruits or vegetables cause this reaction.

                              As far as cleaning the house (happy that you don’t call it a cage either, it’s not a cage, it’s a comfy home!) I have a spray bottle with vinegar that is diluted with water. Perfect cleaner for the bunny house. Non-toxic and does a great job.

                              Hey, that makes me think.   Sometimes, if I give veggies that I have just rinsed (they’d be wet)  to Bailey, she’ll get poopybutt.   I was wondering if that may be actually contributing (especially when she doesn’t get treats, and she’s on a strict diet because she’s got a sensitive digestive system)    Now that makes sense.

                              It seemed to happen when the greens were wet.  I was thinking it would help be sure she gets enough water, but it might end up being too much. 

                              Something for me to watch!

                            • dmh426
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                                No sooner did I post on this subject when Sophie came down with a case of poopy butt. It’s her second since around Thanksgiving. Nothing in her diet has changed and she has unlimited hay at all times. She gets a cup and a half of veggies at night and 1/8 cup of pellets (the boring kind- none of the seeds or colored pellets for her) and all of a sudden- I have to give her a bath. We have an appt tomorrow with her vet, so hopefully I will have something good to report. I think I am just a hypochondriac bunny mom, but better to err on the side of caution!

                              • Gravehearted
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                                  hope Sophie will be ok. it’s a good idea to get her checked out if she’s eating healthy but still getting poopy butt.

                                • dmh426
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                                    Gravehearted- I am the first one to admit I am a nervous bunny mom. I have all the books on house rabbits and even though she’s acting fine, she’s making mommy nervous! I am sure all will be well, I just need a vet trained in rabbits at Cornell to tell me that she’s fine. I’ve got a great vet who is a HRS member, so she is AMAZING with Sophie. I’ll let you know how all turns out!

                                  • BinkyBunny
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                                      When it comes to bunnies, you are smart to err on the side of caution.  They are good at hiding things until it’s too late.

                                      Hopefully your vet will ask you to bring the Poop in (the icky kind)  OHHHHH, so gross I know.  But that way they can test it.     Many times this way they can determine if it is diet or not.

                                      Even if a diet hasn’t changed, sometimes a problem in the diet can take time to create poopybutt.  Sounds like you are ontop of though, but there might be things that your bunny is sensitive too.

                                      Even though she’s got the "boring" type of pellet, what kind of hay is it based from?

                                      Hopefully it something simple – either diet based that’s an easy fix or something that can treated if not.

                                      Keep us updated!  I’m sending happy healthy vibes your bunny’s way!

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                                  Forum DIET & CARE Poop on coat (cecotropes?)