Hello there! New to raising bunnies!!!

[mlb7225]

Hello to all.

 My name is Mike. We are a young family of 4 starting down the path to raising a pair of DHL bunnies. Our plan is the spend the next 2 months researching about everything there is to know about how to properly raise these beautiful little creatures. We will also spend this time making all required purchases up to but excluding the bunnies themselves. Once done, we plan to bring home 2 DHLs somewhere in early Jan.

 Seeing that I am new to caring for these guys, I would love to get some opinions from this forum as to what are the decent sites to go to for information on raising them, feeding them, how to find a GREAT Vet, and most importantly, how to identify a respectable breeder whom to purchase the bunnies from.

 Any help will be greatly appreciated!!!

 Sincerely,

Mike

[Mocha]

Hello Mike and welcome!!!!!!!!!!!

This site is VERY helpful for learning about rabbits. You can go to the section called “bunny info” and read about loads on there. They also have cage ideas and even a store!

The House Rabbit Society is very helpful too. I see that you live in Los Angeles, and there is a place called The LA Rabbit Foundation that I HIGHLY reccomend. It’s in the West LA animal shelter. They care sooo much about all of their rabbits. My friend got her 2 from her (I lionhead and a mixed breed) already bonded and they are very friendly. They already spay and neuter them there, you get a free health exam, they give you a free bag of hay, and all of the rabbits are very healthy and they tell you if the rabbit has a medical condition. Here’s a link to their website: http://www.larabbits.org It’s better to adopt than to “shop”!

Rabbits (adult) should eat:

unlimited grass hay timothy, orchard grass, and oat are all very good.

1/4 cup of very basic timothy based rabbit pellets. NO FRUITS, COLORED BITS, OR NUTS! I use and highly reccomend the Oxbow Adult Rabbit T pellets. I buy the 10 pound bag and it lasts my two rabbits about 2 months.

at least 3 cups of 3 different types of fresh vegetables. I always buy mine organic. (A usual salad for my bunnies consists of romaine lettuce, a bunch of cilantro, and something else. Carrots and fruit are treats only)

Fresh clean cool water. They sell bottles at petstores, but most rabbits much prefer drinking from bowls as they can take larger sips. I personally provide both. One rabbit prefers the bottle and the other prefers the bowl.

Treats are optional, but do not by any dairy product (yogurt drops) or anything with seeds. Fresh fruit is a much better choice.

You need to find a rabbit savvy. I take my buns to the vet once a year for a general health checkup (there are no vaccinations for rabbits here in the US). They have a list of referels on the LA Rabbit Foundation I linked above.

Please be aware that rabbits are very expensive animals. They’re vet checkups are more expensive then dog or cats because they are considered exotic animals. Rabbits can get very sick very easily and their surgery is as well very expensive. Please tell me if you would like to know something else!

[mlb7225]

Mocha,

Thank you so very much for the great reply!!! One thing that has stuck out to me today as I have been researching, and also you mentioned it, is bonding. I assume this simply applies to 2 or more rabbits ‘learning’ to play well with each other? Is it hard to achieve? Maybe that question might be to open ended as each situation might be different when attempting to bond?

Thank you again for the great advice. I will start making a list of things and sites to use.

[Mocha]

Hi again!

Luckily, I got my rabbits from a rescue already bonded, but I know a lot about it and hope I can help.

The best genders to bond together are girls with boys. Females and females and males and males tend to fight.

If you go to a rescue they often help you choose two bunnies. (the one I mentioned does. they have “bunny dates”.) I find the best results with stress bonding. You can put them in a carrier on a “smooth” car ride, put them on the washer while it’s on, or something similar with that. I would do a few sessions like this, and then put them in a bathtub/shower and let them interact with each other. Mounting eachother is okay (they are being dominant), but put a dustpan in between them if they start attack eachother (biting, chasing). Some rabbits hit it off when they first meet, but others absolutely despise each other.

[manic_muncher]

If you could get two buns that are already bonded, I would highly suggest going that route! I am relatively new to house buns too. We got our first one last August, and two new young buns this past June. Everyone is now neutered and we are just now starting the bonding process. All 3 rabbits have been in sight of each other, they’ve licked each other thru their cages… they seemed friendly enough. First bonding session… well, I wouldn’t say it was terrible… but I definitely had to cut it short before they ended up fighting.

My hubby wants to just “throw them in together and see what happens”. NOT a good idea. I’ve had many other animals, dogs and cats mostly, and rabbits are nothing like them in socialization! As Mocha said, some may hit it off really quickly, but I definitely wouldn’t bank on that!

[JackRabbit]

They’re right. Bonding can be extremely stressful, emotional, frightening, and unpredictable, and it can be hard on the bunnies too! Getting an already bonded pair is definitely the best all around.

[mlb7225]

Thank you all for the advice. What is the earliest I can start to bond. Right now, our initial thoughts are getting 2 – 8 week old bunnies. At that early age do they tend to start ‘bickering’? I am not opposed to going the ‘rescue’ route, my only hesitation is on the age as we are wanting young ones that can grow up with our kids.

[JackRabbit]

Bunnies should never be removed from their mothers before 8 weeks. Obviously there are emergency circumstances where this will happen, but if a breeder tries to sell you 2 week old bunnies, report them to the proper authorities and go elsewhere.

You can try bonding from the start, but are very likely to run into issues when teenage hormones kick in, and these issues can make it even harder to put them back together later. It’s best to keep them separated until 4 to 6 weeks after both are spayed/neutered so that their hormones have had a chance to calm down. After that point, you can begin the bonding process. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but it is best this way.

BTW, bunnies (except the giant breeds) are generally full grown and considered adults at 6 months. Getting bunnies that are 6 months or a little older is possible through rescues, and would give you a much better feel for their true personalities, while still possibly getting a bonded pair and them still being “young”.

How old are your kids?

[mlb7225]

To clarify, I meant 2 bunnies at 8 weeks old, so no worries on the 2 week old concern. I like your comment about 6 months old and the rescues. It would obv make me feel great inside to be able to ‘rescue’ a pair of bunnies. How hold do they need to be to get spayed/neutered?

My kids are 4 and 1. Yes, my 1 yr old will only have 100% supervised access to them.

[Hazel]

Posted By mlb7225 on 10/21/2014 3:06 PM

My kids are 4 and 1. Yes, my 1 yr old will only have 100% supervised access to them.

I would do the same with your 4 year old. Rabbits are so fragile and it would be safer for the child as well. You don’t want him/her to get bitten or scratched for acting in a way a bun might conceive as aggressive. A “never pick up the bunnies” rule would be good as well, I think. Rabbits hate to be picked up and a struggling bunny is hard enough to control and hold properly for an adult. A child in that situation could easily hurt the rabbit, and vice versa.

As to you wanting the bunnies to grow up with your kids, I think an adult from a rescue would still be a better choice. Baby rabbits are most always nice and friendly. Once they become adults however, they show their true temperament. It’s impossible to predict how a young rabbit will act as an adult, so even if they grew up with your children it would be a toss up weather or not they will get along down the road. I think if you went with an adult, you could pick one or two that are comfortable with kids and like JR said, a 6 month old is still young.

[mlb7225]

Hello Hazel, appreciate the feedback. Yes, I agree and I just failed to mention how our 4yr old will be taught to be around them. Okay, so I am starting to see a decent amount of comments with regard to the temperament of bunnies, the soft, cute, fluffy bunnies. Is this really something that can be of concern down the road? Can anyone give me examples of the unruly bunnies? Are we talking Monty Python’s version of a bunny with fangs? We are really looking at the Holland Lop bunnies, is their temperament the same as other bunnies?

[Hazel]

Well, baby bunnies are generally sweet and friendly, even cuddly. They are too young to “know better”. Once they mature, nature kicks in and tells them things like “if you get picked up you’re about to become someone’s lunch”. It’s very natural and normal for them to need their space. They are often very bossy and interactions are best done on their terms or they will make their displeasure quite obvious. It’s no coincidence that we bunny owners call ourselves “bunny slaves” They tell you what to do and you do it. Then they tell you what you did wrong.

In regards to different breeds, rabbits aren’t bred for temperament like dogs for example. They are bred for looks so they can be successfully shown. Because of that, temperaments can cover a wide spectrum within one breed. Generally though, smaller rabbits are more high strung, whereas larger ones tend to be more easy going. Holland lops are a smaller breed but lops in general seem to have a reputation for being reasonably friendly.

[mlb7225]

Haha, love your comment on Bunny Slaves!!! I think with that all said, I will keep it in the the back of my mind when we do our final search for the 2 we will purchase.

Well I have time to figure out exactly what type/age bunnies to get. I think a boy and a girl might be best as well, spayed/neutered of course, as I can only be a slave to 2 bunnies, not 20!

I think my next focus will be on the living quarters for them. I am seeing the larger area the better, which is obv for any pet. I found a cage made by Living World, a Deluxe habitat it is called. Measures 47″ x 23″ x 24″ high. Okay for 2 Holland Lops? They will sleep in this and be in while we are away from home. My plan, when we are home, is to let them free in a room with a gated area, maybe 5’x5′. Would this suffice?

[JackRabbit]

Skip any cage sold as “for rabbits”, period! Dog xpens (exercise pens), xl dog crates with xpens attached, or NIC condos (home built) are all great for bunnies and will save you money over a too-small rabbit cage.

Temperament ….. the reason to go with “adult” bunnies. Bunnies can range from “lap bunnies” to literally Monty Python, in fact we have a member who’s adorable little fuzzball is named Monty and has sent his bunny slave to the hospital for stitches more than once. My three are a digger, a chewer, and a peepee/nipper. Kieko is the most active, most nosy, and the one most likely to bite ya on the butt and run off binkying. She is also the one who will rattle the daylights out of her condo if she hears anyone in the hallway and can’t see what’s going on.

If you are looking for pets for your kids to play with and cuddle, you honestly might be better off with a puppy or kitten. I don’t mean to be discouraging, but bunnies always seem to be more like adult pets even though they look more like stuffed toys.

[Flopsie]

I know there has been suggestions to rescue some bunnies, I wanted to add my two cents. I didn’t get my bunny from a rescue, I got her as a little baby bun. I think its nice to get the baby bun and i’m sure a lot of people want to be a part of that process. Now that I have done it, I know that I will get a rescue next time.

For one reason, they usually have them spayed and neutered. In LA, i’m not sure if there is low cost spay and neuter places there. There is a rabbit savvy vet in pasadena but she charges a lot for her services. So having them spayed and neutered before you bring them home saves money.

Also, this leads to my second thing about getting them spayed and neutered. You don’t have to deal with the aftermath. My bun was spayed and it was very difficult and stressful for her and for me. I stressed out about it a lot and so if you can get this taken care of and not dealt with, its a plus.

Lastly, bonding can be difficult. There is a lot of success but there can be a lot of hardships. Getting them both bonded already takes a great deal of stress out on your end.

Just my 2 cents

[Mocha]

You can buy a cage made for rabbits, but then you would have to free range them or attach a run to it.

I agree with JackRabbit. If you want a pet that your kids can play with, I rabbit may not be your best option. If you’re looking for a family pet than a dog would be a better option. Yeah they’re adorable, but most rabbits (i’ve only met a few rabbits that like this) dislike being picked up, dislike being cuddled, and don’t really like being pet.

Rabbits are also very delicate animals. You can easily break their spine if you drop them. I personally like adult animals, from rabbits to horses, just because you already know their temperament so you’re not guessing with anything. I mean it sounds like you want a friendly type of rabbit to grow up with your kids, but you’ll never know if they are friendly if you get them when they are young.

[mlb7225]

JR,

Appreciate the honest response. I will admit, it does give me a lot to ‘chew’ on with regard to whether or not our family will be suitable for raising a pair of bunnies. I will admit though, I never had the thought we would be picking them up and holding them, more of petting and playing around in a room and sometimes in the back yard.

Thanks for the pointer on the cage, NOTED! I started looking up Xpens and NIC’s, and from the initial gathering, much better option!

[mlb7225]

Okay, so I have shared all your great points with my Wife. Her response was “WHAT, bunnies do that?”. I think I will heed your advice JR as my Wife is now, I think, just too nervous. Maybe when the kids are older we can again look into owning these beautiful creatures.

I cannot say THANK YOU enough to everyone for all of your help and guidance. What a great forum and I am so thankful to have found you guys!

If we change our minds in a couple of months, I’ll be sure to check back in!

[Sindri]

I will also add that if I could have from the start I would have adopted a bonded pair. Bonding was extremely difficult for me it took 8 months off and on bonding to get my 2 bonded. It was stressful for myself and the bunnies. Also bunnies can be very destructive. I have baseboards that need replacing and I had to get new carpet in the room where the bunnies lived. They love to chew and get bored very easily. Now I have a bonded pair of bunnies who love to try and get into trouble together. They have already ripped up the carpet in two of the corners of their room. I love them and it doesn’t really bother me as much as it does my husband. That is something else to keep in mind. You will need to make sure where ever the rabbits are kept that it is rabbit proofed.

Again on the adoption of a rabbit it would definitely let you know what personality the rabbit or rabbits have. I have 2 and one is a people lover and the other seems to be more of a rabbit lover. She likes me but would rather play and explore. She gets groomed from my boy rabbit so now I think she really just needs me for food. hehe One last thing both of my rabbits HATE to be picked up.

I am glad you are researching and really putting thought into getting a rabbit versus going out and getting one. You definitely have come to the right place for information. It helped me a lot when I was researching getting a rabbit. Read the forums and see what people ask questions about and definitely check out the bonding section to learn about other’s experiences it will be a big help to you.

Best of luck with getting your new bunnies!

[Author]

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