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The subject of intentional breeding or meat rabbits is prohibited. The answers provided on this board are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet.  It is your responsibility to assess the information being given and seek professional advice/second opinion from your veterinarian and/or qualified behaviorist.

BINKYBUNNY FORUMS

Forum HOUSE RABBIT Q & A Future Bun-Mom Questions

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    • southern_gal16
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        Hello, there! 

        As I mentioned over in the Lounge, I don’t yet have a bun, but I’m making plans for getting at least one (with plans for a second one) in a few months. I’ve been doing a lot of research on rabbits over the past several months, wanting to be a responsible owner even though I’ve never owned rabbits before. And lately I’ve been pricing items and such as part of preparations to start buying stuff beforehand, and I’m also looking into C&C cages, those made out of dog crates, and x-pens. 

        As I’m doing this, I realized there is a bit of an issue: some stuff is meant for smaller rabbits and other stuff is meant for bigger rabbits. At this point I have no idea what size rabbit(s) I’m getting, so, for example, I have no idea how big the C&C cage should be.

        I have two options for getting the rabbit(s). 

        First, I know someone who is selling New Zealands (or at least half- New Zealands). Unfortunately, I know for certain that they’re backyard breeders. They have two rabbits (at least six months old, the same gender, and obviously bonded) that are not altered, but looking at them today, they’re curious and active, which attracted them to me. I know I could probably get them for cheap but would have to definitely take them to them to vet to be altered and then go through the process of litter-box training and teaching them house manners. I don’t want to support this family in this “enterprise” of theirs, but part of me really wants to give at least two of these rabbits a good home.

        Second, there is a rabbit rescue about two hours away from me. It has a good reputation, and I’d feel much more comfortable supporting them. Even though I’d have to pay more, the rabbits would already be altered, and I’d know that I was helping out bunnies who were abandoned. Problem is, if I go through a rescue, I don’t know how to prep for it. I have no idea of the size of the rabbits I’d get, whether the holes C&C grids are too big for a smaller breed or whether the cage levels need to be higher to accommodate a bigger breed. I don’t have a particular breed in mind, as I want to see which rabbits catch my eye (though I favor the idea of a small or medium breed, primarily because of space). 

        So I’m very conflicted right now. I want to be able to properly prepare for the bun(s) arrival, but I’m not sure how to do that if I’m not sure of the size. I was hoping you experienced bun owners would be able to give me advice in this area. I’d really appreciate it. Thanks!


      • bear_the_bunny
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        67 posts Send Private Message

          Welcome to the world of bunnies!
          For the cage I would do the bigger size no matter the breed. You know what they say, bigger is better! Smaller breeds tend to be more active and would need and enjoy the bigger size.
          I, personally, would choose the rescue shelter. Some have already bonded pairs who are fixed, saving loads of time and money. You also are helping those bunnies who might spend the rest of their life in the shelter, which don’t always have ideal conditions. Chances are, someone else will buy the New Zealands.
          Hope this helped!


        • kurottabun
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            If preparation is the concern, I don’t think that’s a huge thing to worry about Since you’re already opting for a cage made from grids, you could always go out and get more grids to expand the area if it’s too small. Most if not all shelter bunnies are already fixed/bonded so that’s also a bonus.

            Like bear_the_bunny said, you can also always make a larger space as smaller breeds do require quite a lot of space too regardless. If you do opt for the shelter, remember to ask them questions about the bunnies so you know what to expect (e.g. their likes/dislikes, background information, any health issues or things you should pay extra attention to etc).


          • Bugsbunnymom
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              I think you should go for the shelter even if it is a no kill shelter if you get one from a breeder it makes it worse for the shelter and they may be full and unable to rescue other bunnies so that might result in a bunny being put down as for getting a second bunny i think you should look the shelter up online and see if they have bonded pairs and adopt them both at the same time. Even if you get a mall/medium breed it is cruel to not give them the amount of space they need. You should go to the helter before hand and pick out the rabit you wannt h=then knowing the size go get everything they need ex: Cage large enugh to allow (however many you get) to lay all the way strechth all the way out and for them to stand all the way up on their hind legs, water bowl, food, food bowl, hay, hay feeder litter box that all of your bunies can fit in it and i would recomend just using hay as litter instead of getting the expensive stuff.


            • Sirius&Luna
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              2319 posts Send Private Message

                To be honest, the amount of space bunnies need doesn’t really change by breed. And lots of people on here use c&c grids for all breeds of bunnies, so I don’t think them poking their heads through the holes is a concern. The good thing about rescues is that you can see what their adult personality is like, and when you see quite a few bunnies together, you can see which one has the personality you like best.

                The thing to consider is that even if the babies are cheaper than the rescues, once you’ve paid for the neuters, spays and check ups they’ll probably end up costing a lot more. I think in the US the average price of a spay or neuter is around $200 from what i’ve seen on here.


              • tobyluv
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                  I’m definitely in favor of choosing bunnies from the rescue. Regarding the C&C grids, it is always advised to get the ones with the 1 inch (more like 1 1/4 inch) openings, no matter what breed of rabbit will be housed in them.


                • southern_gal16
                  Participant
                  7 posts Send Private Message

                    Thanks for the responses!

                    Maybe I should clarify what I mean about size concerns. Since I’m planning on a C&C cage, I’m aiming towards building levels so that the rabbits have plenty of space to move. Does the height of the levels matter in regards to the rabbit breed? I don’t want to make it so high that a smaller breed could injure itself when a larger breed wouldn’t have that problem.

                    Or what about sizes for beds and litter boxes. Does that matter per breed, or is it more of a one-size-fits-all deal?


                  • CinnamonPearl
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                      Go with the rescue! Adopt, dont shop.


                    • kurottabun
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                        Height does matter in this aspect – the bunny needs to be able to stand up fully in the cage, but I think generally you can build the levels higher. If you do end up with a smaller breed, you could always build a ramp up to the upper levels so the bunny can still go up. Again, grid cages are easily customisable so you can always adjust it accordingly after you get the bunny

                        For beds and litter boxes, you could always get a large one to be safe. A small bunny wouldn’t have issues going into a large bed or litter box, but a big bunny would have issues going into a small one. My litter box for example wouldn’t be able to fit a New Zealand or Flemish Giant but it fits my Netherland Dwarf well.

                        Litter boxes can be fairly inexpensive anyway as you could just get a big plastic tupperware (for easier cleaning) and line it with litter. You could also DIY a grate/screen if you want to. A bunny (even if it’s a small one) would be able to hop in and out without issues.


                      • tannr
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                          something to keep in mind is that the pen/cage you have for your bunny/bunnies when you first bring them home isn’t going to be the set up you have for them forever–you can definitely start with a basic c&c pen or xpen and then expand it or change the shape/set up as you get to know your bunnies and their personalities. i know there is a lot of excitement in preparing for a new pet that it can seem like everything is such a big deal but in reality you can (and most likely will, regardless of how you proceed right now) change your mind later about what works best for you and your pets!


                        • Daisy
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                            Going to the back-yard breeder to get rabbits means that you are supporting them. You are then their customer and even giving them money for their breeding practices and you will allow them to continue to do so. If you are against backyard breeding, I strongly suggest not getting bunnies there. Me personally, I’m against backyard breeding when there are rescues full of poor bunnies waiting for homes and backyard breeders generally have no clue about genetics and creating sustainable rabbit babies. But If you are ok with backyard breeding then go ahead and get some buns there, I’m just voicing my subjective opinion and I can totally understand other people may have different opinions and are fine with backyard breeders.   All I’m saying is that you should not get bunnies from there if you’re against it, it will nag at your conscience and it is hypocritical. Only get them from there if you truly support their doing and not just because they are cheap and seem easy to you.

                            Even when you get bunnies from a rescue you can still determine your wishes such as size, fur, genders and whatnot. Once you have determined what kind of bunny you would like (a Flemish giant sized one or a dwarf sized one, short haired or long haired) you can find rescues with bunnies that match the type of bun you’re looking for and prepare all your stuff to suit the bunny you have in mind. I’m not sure where you live but where I live the shelters and rescues are stacked full with bunnies so there are always plenty bunnies that will fit your criteria to choose from! Furthermore, rescue bunnies are more expensive at purchase but are cheaper in the long run as (at least where I live) the males come neutered and vaccinated already, females are only vaccinated. My male cost me 60 euros at the rescue and he was castrated and vaccinated. My unspayed rescue female was 35 euros. Vaccinations are around 50 euros and neutering males yourself is around 50-100 euros, females are around 150-200 euros. So even if you’d get the buns from the backyard breeder for free it would still be much more expensive (and a hassle!) than getting a rescue bun. Females at rescues here are never neutered, so I can’t help you with that if you decide to neuter your female but at least it’s 1 bunny less to worry about. Another huge advantage is that rescues have bonded couples saving you the hassle of bonding yourself, which is a pain in the behind, especially when you get 2 babies. Bunnies need matching characters to be able to live together and if you just get 2 random babies the chances that they will like each other is completely random and may result in 2 buns hating each other and unable to live together. One last pro of a rescue if that you know the history of the bun, whether they have teeth issues, sensitive gut, etc and they are usually 6 months+ so their personality is set. You know exactly what you’re getting when you get a rescue bun.

                            Another note, there is no such thing as “too big” with buns, only too small! This is true for everything: From toys to beds to space needed to bowls to litter boxes. For example, a large litter box or bed for a dwarf will still be convenient as the bun will have more places to pee/poop, less chance the bun will sit on its hay and the box gets full less quick or when you have a couple they can sit in there and eat hay together. I have one small and one medium sized bun (2 and 3 kg) and I go for the largest toys, litter boxes, tunnels etc regardless because small litter boxes, tunnels and toys I find are too small for bunnies for my taste (butts falling over the edge of the litter box, tunnels too small to run through and toys that disappear within 5 minutes because they’re so small).


                          • Sofia
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                            348 posts Send Private Message

                              Adopt don’t shop

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                          Forum HOUSE RABBIT Q & A Future Bun-Mom Questions