Yes, agree with Wick&Fable. Rabbits are very territorial so they will almost always fight when you introduce them near their home turf or in an area they spend time.
You are on track to bond them though, since you got them neutered. The link shared above gives a great over view of the bonding process. Basically you will want to start by locating a neutral area of your home, which is someplace the rabbits have never been, ideally not within smelling range of their areas. Many people use their bathrooms for this because they are easy to clean and most rabbits don’t hang out in the bathroom.
You can also start swapping which bun is in which cage every day or two. That helps them lose track of territory and get used to each other’s scents. Keep doing this throughout the bonding process.
After a week or two of side swaps, start doing short dates in the neutral territory. It’s very important to prevent fighting during these dates, so it’s OK to have your hands on them a lot. You can pet them when they approach each other to keep them calm as well. I like to start with short time goals when the rabbits have fought previously (such as a minute or two). Try to end the dates on a positive note, so either before they fight, or once they have calmed down again.
Then the idea is you gradually increase the amount of time they are spending together in the neutral area. You can do multiple dates a day if you have time and the buns are not getting overly stressed. Once you get up to dates that are an hour or two long, you can increase the date length more. So for example when you get to 2 hours, you could then try a couple 4 hour dates. In general if something goes well, it helps to repeat that exact date again.
In the bonding area, start out with nothing (no litter boxes, food, etc.). Once dates get longer I like to add pee pads on the floor and a pile of hay. They can also share salads during the longer dates.
I’ll stop there so as not to overwhelm but feel free to ask more questions!
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The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.