Rabbits fighting for dominance…I think

[Joeofalltrades]

Hi all,

 

Im Joe a first time bunny owner i have two wonderful little netherland dwarves called Luna (Female unspayed) and Martin (Male Neutered) Currently they are 3 and a half months old and had been getting along great apart from a minor incident a while back where martin had bitten luna on the back of the neck and made her bleed slightly. I even let them free roam and setup a lovely expen and hutch area to go to bed in. However recently they have been getting into small fights or i should say luna has been trying to show dominance over martin and he has tried to defend himself. yesterday i got so anxious and stressed because they are preventing me from getting any work done due to supervising i separated them. they can still see and smell each other but i live in a very small apartment and there is no way i can deal with the fighting or the separation long term. It is affecting my depression, stress and anxiety to unbearable levels i know luna is not spayed and is probably the main issue but the vets around say they refuse to do surgery until she is at least 5 months old (which i found mind blowing) i could really use some advice on how to handle this situation i will try anything at this point to get a good nights sleep knowing they are both happy and safe.

 

Thank you for your help

Joe

[Wick & Fable]

It is actually common for vets to wait until females are a certain age to spay. This is because they need to ensure the rabbit is sexually fully developed internally to completely remove the ovaries and uterus.

At this point, separation is needed since, and I think deciding in that arrangement may bring a lot less stress, be more manageable, and much more safe for everyone involved. In terms of space, you can have them take turns in the free roam space, which can help off set them being in a more restricted space. If there is biting or harmful interactions through barriers/bars, you can try binder clipping or attaching a bedsheets or something like that to visually deter it, or create a double barrier so direct contact is not possible.

I know it is not ideal, but this is something that is pretty common. Prior to being sexually mature, many rabbits will get along with others without a problem. It is most likely her becoming hormonal that is starting this.

I will also mention that after she is spayed and recovered, doing the formal bonding itself can take a bit of time and requires separation as well. There is information on the basics of bonding in the RABBIT INFO section of the website. If this seems not doable for you months from now due to resources or space, some people opt to pay for a bonder to bond their rabbits for them.

 

In short, separation is probably what’s going to make them both happier right now. It is stressful for the rabbits themselves to work out dominance, especially when one is fixed and the other is not.

The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.

[DanaNM]

Agree with Wick, at this point they definitely need to be separated until she is spayed, because her hormones will get in the way of the bond forming properly. This is especially true in the pubescent years when hormones are just fluctuating all over the place. Also the more they fight now the harder it will be to bond them, so best to just stop for now. But it’s OK to have them see each other and smell each other.

Some vets will spay as young as 4 months, but it’s usually recommended to wait until 5 or 6. The surgery is quite invasive (the entire uterus and ovaries are removed) so most vets like to wait until they are more developed.

Alternative free-roam (I do mine on 12 hours shifts) works great in the meantime, and I like to make temporary housing with NIC cube grids. They are amazing for making temporary pens or condos that can be reconfigured later when everyone is bonded. It is always a bit inconvenient having extra pens etc, but having that set up will likely take a lot of stress off of your mind and you can just relax until she is spayed.

. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.  

[Joeofalltrades]

Hi Guys

thank you so much for your help I really appreciate your expertise in this matter. unfortunately due to the amount of time i have to wait to get her spayed (2 to 3 months) the surgery costs (200 euros after being told she was spayed when i got her) and the size of my apartment I just cant see anyway for this to work out. I know a lot of people on here will be upset with me for really considering giving Luna up and keeping Martin but I really think with my current living situation it will be impossible to keep them both without sacrificing everything in my life for them. I love Luna a lot and she loves jumping on my lap and getting cuddles and it breaks my heart to let her go. Any tips on adopting her out to make sure she gets the home she deserves would be absolutely amazing thank you guys again.

Joe

[DanaNM]

You know what’s best for your buns. I don’t think there is shame in rehoming as long as you make sure she finds a good home.

The HRS has some tips for rehoming: https://rabbit.org/rabbit-center/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Rehome-handout.pdf

I recommend explaining the importance of spaying to whoever adopts her. You also might look into rescues in your area to see if they can help.

. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.  

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