Rabbit info to new rabbit parents!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

When I adopted Rupert I was surprised that the only info I was given was that “I’d have to trim his nails since he can’t do it himself”‘; and yet everyone adopting dogs and cats were getting booklets on their new pets and how to care for them….

So I bugged and prodded and I get to put together and info package for people adopting bunnies from my shelter-As a volunteer thing, I’m not getting paid so I hope it’s Ok to post in here……I am wondering if I post it on here, if you guys want to make any suggestions if I left something out?

Also if anyone wants there bunny featured in the pamphlet (I’mgoing to throw pics in it too) you can email them to me at lesleyc@ualberta.ca

 

 

[babybunsmum]

wow k&k thats a terrific idea!  when i adopted pinky they didn’t tell me a single thing.  they didn’t even interview me like they do when they adopt out cats & dogs… i just had to initial some statements that swear i’ll take care of her and that they aren’t responsible for her health conditions past a couple of days.

how did you get them to be supportive of your idea?  i’d love love love to do something like this here with my humane society but feel like they’d be a bit defensive about it.

i’m going to email you some pics of my furbabies… if you can use them feel free!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Thanks for the pictures bbm!

Well, I just emailed first the volunteer coordinator and asked to be passed on to whoever was in charge of that sort of thing; and that I wanted to put together an adoption information booklet for them…since I noticed they didn’t have one. I said if they were interested in knowing why I thought I was qualified to do so I would be happy to provide them my resume/experience/qualificiations. Once I got the right person she said they would love me to do one, I inquired over whether they just wanted info compiled or a finsihed product and she said they’d love a finished product. Of course once done it has to be approved for use, but they seem excited for the support!

[RabbitPam]

That sounds great! Please post it when you want some feedback.

[Beka27]

i think you should definitely put some good rabbit links in it, esp. to HRS.

[Annie Fann]

sounds like a great idea. i could have used one when i got my bunnies. i’ll send along some pics of my fluffballs too. =)

[JK]

Save A Bunny has a great information packet called “Rabbit Care Information”.  It’s 29 pages long.  I would be happy to make a copy and send it to you by mail.  If you want me to why don’t you PM me and then you can send me your address. We are not supposed to put our emails on here. It’s got a shopping list on the back of the cover, bunny basics, diet, housing, why you should spay/neuter, training, rabbit proofing, medical concerns etc. It’s almost everything on this site but in a nice booklet.

[KatnipCrzy]

I think it is a great idea.  Most people don’t know what a “house bunny” really is!!!  And it could be educational in the sense that people will know what to buy their bunny and not waste money right off-  tiny cage, salt lick, etc.

When I first told people that I got a bunny- the first question usually was- “Are you keeping her outside?”.  I was happy to answer that “no, she is a house bunny”.  If more people knew how smart and how rewarding bunnies were I think alot more pairs would be adopted thru rescue.

In fact I am sad that I did not get my bunny thru rescue- but it was just one of those things that was meant to happen.  I saw her at the pet store (local indep owned store) and was wowed.   It is weird because I used to have a pet related small business and went to approx 6 pet stores weekly and saw bunnies there all the time and I was not interested.  But I took one look at Cotton- and she had me hooked.  Even after I bought her I admitted that I had not wanted a rabbit and was not looking for one.  But every time I cuddle with her- I am so thankful that I went with my gut feeling and brought her into my life.  When she is older- I would love to rescue a boy bunny as friend for her.  But I want to get past the spaying and young terror bunny years first.  I don’t want to “share” yet.  : )

 

[KatnipCrzy]

I was also going to mention (before I got mooning around about Cotton)- that I would present them with a hard copy AND a copy on disc or CD that they can make minor revisions to- print more, update logos, whatever.  Maybe they will find an interested pet store and can have a promotional coupon with book, etc- so they would probably appreciate flexibility with printing.

[Hedi]

Our local HRS has one as well and its about 25pgs long. We put them in the rabbit packets when buns are adopted but also keep the packets in the rabbit area so if anyone wants one to take home to educate themselves they can.

If you want a pdf version I can send it to you. It has adorable pics attached as well. It may save you having to reproduce the entire them by yourself.

I have a great one page reference sheet for some of the best bunny sites (w/ binkybunny listed of course!) so if you want it just let me know.

[wendyzski]

Here are some links to handouts that I got:

From my vet (Midwest Exotics)   http://www.exoticpetvet.com/breeds/rabbits.htm

From my shelter – several rabbit pubs on here  http://www.reddoorshelter.org/care.html

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Thanks everyone!!

Hedi, I’d love for you to send along the PDF!

Also, does anyone have an opinion on how long this should be? I want to be thurough but I also don’t want to overwhelm people!!

[Beka27]

i would think 20-30 pages including pics, table of contents, links, a full page tear out list with good/bad veggies should be good. 

you don’t want “overwhelm” them?!!?

they’re adopting a rabbit… they NEED to be overwhelmed in order to give the rabbit the proper attention and care.  a two page pamphlet is just not gonna do the trick.  will this book be given when they take bunny home or when they apply?  it should be given first i would think.

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

I know! It’d be better if they got it when they applied, but applications are processed the same day you take the pet home…it’s given when they take the rabbit home… I’m not concerned about overwhelming them for their feelings just more so, if they’re like “oh this is too much” and throw it out, you know? I want to make it an easy read, but have everything they need; I like the idea of the tear out sheet!!

[Beka27]

i would think tho that 90% of the people, if they are going thru the trouble of an adoption process, and not just going to a petstore, they would be willing to read a small booklet about care.  you’re always going to have the folks who just don’t care, but i’m thinking they’re not the ones who are adopting.  even if they get the booklet when they fill out paperwork, and it may be a half hour or so until everything is ready to go… they may flip thru it right there, ya know?

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

That’s a good point Beka!

[JK]

The booklet I got when I adopted Edson was literally my BIBLE!  I read it over and over again.  So any responsible owner would love to have this information at their finger tips.  A hard copy is nice to have as sometimes it’s a pain sitting at the computer reading through everything!

[Sage Cat]

Very cool of you to put something together for your shelter!

I just checked the folder I got from the CO-HRS a week before I was allowed to adopt my bunny’s.

It has a 25 page packet – front & back, small print! Plus, there were other pamphlets as well! It is awesome information to have. Here is a link to most of the articles: http://www.coloradohrs.com/article_index.asp

Did I mention the really long application & the grilling I got from Rachel?

The article on Major health issues (especially Head Tilt) scared me half to death, But I feel so much better knowing what signs to look for.

[Beka27]

^^^that’s an interesting point, sage cat, about being scared of the illnesses.  i think it’s good to be scared of what can happen.  that will make sure people will be looking out for the little things that can indicate a bigger problem.  we may seem obsessive and overprotective to other people, but we know what to look for and we’re aware of the dangers.

 

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Thanks guys!! Ok I’ll go BIG!!

I think I can still make it easy to read, and include pics to make it fun; And include lots of tables to make it easy to reference…I’ll put it all together in hard format for March 25 which is when I go in for ‘critter cuddle’ orientation and physically give it to them then.

So, you’re all gonna proof read for me right LOL!

[babybunsmum]

i was hoping you’d post it… can’t wait to see what you put together!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Ok, I’m still in rough draft in terms of I haven’t made it nice with pictures but I’m desperate for input. I wasn’t going to do a spay/neuter section (I can hear Beka picking up a stick to wack me with ) as they lead me to believe no bunnies got adopted unless they were altered HOWEVER that’s not the case so I’m going to have to that as well. Anyways here’s what I have, any input and constructive criticisms are totally appreciated!!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Congratulations on the adoption of your rabbit today! If you are a first time rabbit owner (or even if you’ve owned rabbits in the past) you’ll probably find this information very helpful while you get your new friend settled in!

What to feed your rabbit:
Rabbits actually need a diet that consists of unlimited hay, green vegetables and some rabbit pellets offered to supplement the diet.
Timothy hay should be given, unless the rabbit is young or needs to put on weight, in which case alfalfa hay can be offered. To encourage eating hay, add a handful several times a day rather then offering it all at once. You may be surprised to find out the rabbits cannot have iceberg lettuce at all, and feeding too many carrots can make your rabbit fat! Rabbits should be fed veggies every day. However do note that your rabbit cannot eat your spoiled greens rather then throwing them out. They are not composters and could get very ill if fed rotting vegetables. A general rule of thumb is, if its not fresh enough for you to eat, don’t feed it to your rabbit! You must introduce vegetables one at a time, as some rabbits have sensitive stomachs. If your rabbit has a digestive upset from a vegetable you can remove that from the diet and try others. Fruits are high in sugar for rabbits and should be fed as treats. They especially like dried cranberries, raisin, and blueberries. Rabbit’s should be fed ¼ to ½ cup of pellets per six pounds of rabbit a day. Pellets were actually developed for putting weight on meat rabbits so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that rabbit’s that eat only pellets, or too many pellets, will get fat! Ensure the pellets are timothy based and not alfalfa based and buy the kind that doesn’t have seeds and colored bits in it-often called “Gourmet”. These additions are junk food for rabbits, and would be akin to your adding chocolate bars to your salad. As well, some of these additions can make your rabbit sick! Remember that pet food is marketed for the human to buy, and the health of your pet is not always top priority for the company!
For instance, never feed your rabbit yogurt drops. They are marketed for rabbits, but they can make your rabbit very sick! Some more examples of forbidden foods are: Chocolate, bread products, yogurt, potatoes, nuts, cat food, dog food, corn, meat, birdseed or onions; These can cause serious illness or fatality!!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

How to speak and understand “Rabbit”:
Rabbit’s don’t like being picked up, as they are prey animals. You may already have noticed this that your rabbit tenses up or may even flail and kick when you pick him up. This is because if a wild rabbit is off the ground, it’s a bad thing as it means it’s been caught by a predator. So to make your rabbit comfortable, get on the ground with him instead of trying to get him in the air with you! When you sit on the floor you will invoke your rabbit’s natural curiosity and he will not be able to resist coming up to you and seeing what you’re doing. Treat your rabbit for doing this! Try to encourage your rabbit to take a treat from your hand. Your rabbit will slowly learn to trust you and become more and more friendly towards you. If you fist your hand and put it under his chin, this is an invitation for him to groom you. He might find this offensive and pretentious if you are not bonded yet. But when you do this and he licks (grooms) your fist, it means he loves you and trusts you. This is a very sincere rabbit compliment!
Stomping->Usually means your rabbit is warning you of danger, but he may also stomp for attention or to show distaste for what is happening.
Oinking and circling-> This is a bunny “love dance’ and means he’s in love with you. Its part of courtship behavior and even altered rabbits will exhibit this. This is another sincere rabbit compliment!
Flopping->Your rabbit just flops on his side or back suddenly!…this means your rabbit is relaxed and content.
Running around like crazy and jumping in the air-> this is called the “happy bunny dance’ or a ‘binky’. This means your rabbit happy and feeling good!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

How to care for your rabbit:

Grooming: Rabbits need to be brushed so that they do not ingest too much fur when cleaning themselves. Rabbit brushes can be purchased in a pet store, although some cat brushes may be suitable as well. You should brush your rabbit at least once a week, and when shedding you should brush them every day, to prevent hairball blockages.
Nails: They will also need to have their nails trimmed about every month. It’s best to have someone help you do this. Wrap your bunny up in an old towel so that he is comfortable and supported and you can pull one foot out at a time to trim the nails. This is called a bunny burrito and will keep you from getting bite and your bunny from hurting himself while struggling. Look for the quick-this is the blood vein that runs in the nail. Ensure you trim the nail so there is some room between the quick and where you trim. Light colored nails are easy to see the quick. For darker nails use a flashlight. Cutting through the quick is painful for your bunny. Keep styptic powder or cornstarch on hand to stop bleeding should you accidently do this.
Bathing: Rabbits are good groomers and do not generally need baths. If you should need to bath your rabbit, purchase a shampoo meant for rabbits, and do not use your own shampoo on him, this could severely irritate his skin. Bathe him in very warm water (but not warm enough that it’s uncomfortable to your skin). Rabbit’s can become hypothermic when wet so make sure your rabbit is somewhere warm to dry off. You can lightly blow-dry him with the setting on cool or warm, using your fingers to fluff and ensure the temperature is not too high. Rabbits have very delicate skin. Make sure your rabbit is warm while drying off. You can wrap him in a towel and cuddle him on your lap to keep him warm.

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Litter training: Did you know that your rabbit can be litter trained? Rabbits are very clean animals and generally take quickly to litter training. Use a litter box both in and out of the cage, and fill both with the litter you are using. Add hay to make the litter box an enjoyable place for your bunny to be. Add some bunny poops and even a paper towel with some of your rabbit’s pee on it, and he’ll start using the litter box!
The best litter to use is a compressed paper litter; Steer clear of cat litters, pine/cedar shavings-they can all cause serious health problems for your rabbit.

Not just any kind of litter can be used for rabbits. Do not used cat litter. If ingested it can cause a blockage or poison your bunny. As well, the scented kinds can cause liver damage. Wood based litters like pine or cedar shavings are not ideal either as the phenols given off by them can also damage bunny’s sensitive livers. The ideal litters are compressed paper litters such as ‘Yesterday’s News’ or “Carefresh”. Steer clear of corn cob based litters as well. Unscented, untreated ‘wood stove pellets’ may also be used. Newspaper is another safe alternative.

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Rabbit Proofing:
Rabbits chew cords. Even the best trained rabbit can chew through a cord quickly. Cover your cords with hard plastic tubing, or physically block them from your rabbit. A product like ‘wire storage cubes’ can be used to block off areas like behind the TV, under the computer or around the Christmas tree. Rabbits may decide something else in your house is for chewing that you don’t want chewed. The best approach is to physically block off the area that they are chewing (use something heavy like a big book or box) and redirect your bunny to an appropriate chew toy. You can also spray the area with a bit of perfume. Most house plants are toxic if ingested. If your not sure if your plant is toxic (you can check http://www.adoptarabbit.com/articles/toxic.html596672) assume it is. You can move your plants up high or into a room where your bunny is not allowed. To avoid poisoning do not rely on training alone to keep your rabbit from ingesting the plant. Lots of rabbits decide to chew and dig carpet. If it’s not possible to keep your rabbit off carpets entirely (perhaps restricting them to other rooms) deter the behavior by spraying your bunny with a little spray of water and/or clapping your hands and saying “NO!”. Then redirect your bunny to something he can chew, like a phonebook. Bunnies also chew clothing and they love to eat remote control buttons. The best solution here is to keep a tidy home! Put clothing away and keep your remote inaccessible.

Once you’ve finished bunny proofing, get down on the floor for another look, from your bunny’s perspective. Ensure you’ve taken care of everything!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Toys: There are a variety of toys on the market that are great for your rabbit. Toys are important to enrich their lives and to prevent destructive behaviors. Natural behaviors for a rabbit that they enjoy are digging, chewing and throwing. There are hanging toys, throw toys and ‘furniture’ toys. You can also make your own toys. Take a brown paper bag, fill it with hay and lettuce and poke some holes in it. Fill a laundry basket with shredded paper and hay. Fill a toilet paper tube with hay. Simply give your bunny an old towel or phone book! Some toys made for cats or birds are also suitable for rabbits, like cat condos or hanging wood toys. Make a ‘bunny condo’-cut two holes in a cardboard box large enough for your bunny to use as doors. Your bunny will love to be in and on this condo and will probably do some renovations of his own! Untreated seagrass mats and wicker baskets also make excellent toys as well as cage furnishings. Some rabbits even love slinky’s!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Tear out page of what you can feed:

Alfalfa sprouts Radish sprouts Clover sprouts Basil
Beet Greens Bok choy Broccoli Brussels sprouts
Carrots Carrot tops Celery Collard greens
Dandelion greens Dandelions Endive Escarole
Green peppers Kale Mint Mustard greens
Parsley Peapods Peppermint leaves Raddichio
Radish tops Raspberry leaves Romaine lettuce Spinach
Watercress Wheat grass Apple Blueberries
Melon Orange Papaya Peach
Pear Pineapple Plums Raspberries
Strawberries Grapes Raisins Red peppers

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

This section is not done yet.

Keeping your rabbit healthy, and when to go to a vet:
If your rabbit is in a stupor/coma, seizures, has been shocked or drowned, or is hypo/hyperthermic, take him to a vet immediately.

Inspect your rabbit regularly. Look to ensure his eyes are bright and clear. His nose should not have discharge, and his fur should be clean. You should gently inspect his ears for mites or fleas. Check his feet for sores. Rabbits don’t have pads on their feet and if they are prone to stomping or not kept in suitable conditions, they can develop a condition known as sore hocks. When a rabbit gets sick, his condition deteriorates extremely quickly. If your rabbit stops eating and/or pooping for more then twelve hours, it’s an emergency and you need to take him to a vet. If you notice discharge in his eyes or nose, he should be seen by a vet. As well, if your rabbit is dirty as he’s stopped grooming himself or incontinent, he needs to be seen by a vet. Don’t delay if you think your rabbit should be seen, rabbits can quickly become deathly ill; putting off a vet visit for a few hours can often make the difference between life and death.
Following a proper diet and keeping your rabbit out of harms way (this means avoiding predators, falls down stairs and electrical cords) will help ensure your rabbit has a long and healthy life.
Some things to keep on hand for first aid at home are:
Hydrogen Peroxide and Neosporin (but not Neosporin plus) for putting on small wounds or scraps.
Hemorrhoid Ointment for applying to sore hocks.
Baby gas medicine, containing semethicone for giving if your bunny gets gas. (You can tell your rabbit has gas as you can hear the gurgling and he will be sitting on his hunches, perhaps grinding his teeth.)
Critical Care (by oxbow) for force feeding if you rabbit has surgery or otherwise stops eating.

[LittlePuffyTail]

This is a great idea Kokanee. I had thoughts about doing something similar for pet stores because even the staff there has no tips on care for the rabbits. But I think a petstore would just end up throwing it out.

Is it a rabbit rescue or a humane shelter you volunteer at?

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

It’s a humane society…Unfortunately we don’t have a rabbit rescue here, although (excited!!) I did find someone who wants to start a rescue and we’re meeting up in a couple of weeks to talk about it! Whooohhooo!

[LittlePuffyTail]

That’s awesome! Keep me updated for sure! Maybe if you start one I can steal your ideas in the future although I still say you should move to NB (because it’s just soooooooo exciting here, lol)…

[babybunsmum]

wow k&k&r… you’ve done a great job!  thats a lot of info you have

i have a suggestion to add to the toys sections… a note about choosing newsprint & cardboard that’s not shiny… and supervising buns when playing with any toy that may shred in strings or that their teeth or claws could get caught in.

i’m not sure how much room you have in your brochure but the handouts my vet gave me also mention:  rabbit handling (something about that they have a lightweight skeleton and very powerful back legs, so their rear end needs to be supported when they’re being carried to avoid sudden injury to the rabbit if it kicks), and something housing maybe (size / type of cage)? 

[JK]

Hey – That looks great so far!!! Did you get the pamphlet I sent you that Save A Bunny gives out????

[JK]

What about adding to the Grooming section- cleaning those lovely scent glands!!!

[JK]

Oh I definitely think you need to add a spay/neuter section and the reasons why you should do so. This is EXTREMELY important!

[Beka27]

*Beka looks for her beating stick* 

i would do a section on spay/neuter for a couple reasons,  first of all, if they decide in the future to get a friend for their rabbit (maybe thru a pet store or a website like craigslist), they may think, “well, my first rabbit is neutered, so there’s no need to alter my second rabbit”.  some people think that altering is JUST for reproductive reasons and not for health/bahavioral reasons.  second, if they like your materials (which i am sure they will) there’s a good chance it might get passed around.  suppose the adopter has a friend who buys a bunny… but there is no info in the book about altering.  the pet shop, breeder, or website sure won’t stress altering… they may not even be aware that it’s a possiblility.  it doesn’t ahve to be a huge part on altering, i would just make sure to say something.  even if you start it along the lines of “most shelters/rescues will nueter/spay a rabbit before adoption, but it is important to know the reason why this is done.  rabbits are notoriously quick breeders, but preventing pregnancy is only one of the benefits of altering.”  and then go on to mention destructive behavior, spraying, aggression, territorial behavior and OF COURSE the risk of cancer.  even on this website some newer people have said, “oh, i’m only going to alter one of my rabbits” and we need to kindly let them know why that’s not a great idea.

everything else looks so awesome.  did you mention how many veggies to offer daily and in what quantities?  i may have missed that.  are you going to do a small health section?  even if you picked the top ten most likely issues and wrote just a brief three sentence description of each.

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

Thanks Everyone!! I love your suggestions! I’ll get down to work this afternoon.

Beka those are super points, I will be for sure including a spay/neuter section now, but after reading your points I can’t believe I was thining of leaving it out!! *smacks head* I totally didn’t think about them getting another rabbit or speaking with frinds gosh!

[babybunsmum]

those are good points beka!  good grief there’s a lot to know about rabbit care isn’t there?  i find it hard to remember some of the points that i needed to learn in the beginning & only seem to remember those points that i learned most recently.  k&k&r… when i was reading thru what you have written i kept saying to myself… oh yeah!  good thing to mention!

[Kokaneeandkahlua]

*clears throat* ….Beka!! ….Beka are you in here? hehe

I’m done ( I think) my spay neuter section…What do you guys think? Any ideas how to end it?

Spaying and Neutering and Breeding:

It is absolutely imperative that you choose to have your pet your pet spayed or neutered. You might think that since you only have one pet that it can’t possibly reproduce so you don’t need to bother. While the likelihood of it contributing to the unwanted pet population while alone is close to nil, the likelihood of an altered animal contributing is zero. Did you know that a lot of annoying, destructive and messy habits of bunnies can be reduced or completely eliminated by spaying and neutering? For instance marking with urine or feces is virtually a non-occurrence in altered animals! Digging and fighting and other territorial behaviors can also be reduced by altering not to mention that your pet will become calmer and happier when altered. This also reduces the chances of reproductive cancers. In female rabbits, if left unaltered the incidence of cancer is as high as 85% by age three. Altered rabbits, on the other hand can live as long as 9-12 years on average.
Some people who have a purebred rabbit decide to breed their rabbit. The choice is made based on ‘showing their children the miracle of birth’ or ‘making money’ or ‘probably having homes for all the babies’ or any other number of reasons. Did you know that rabbit’s are the third most euthanized animal in North America? Not only are that but thousands of rabbits turned ‘loose’ to fend for themselves when their owners grow tired of them, and they are not equipped to live in the wild. You may think you have homes for the offspring, but even if those homes are good homes, they are now not available to take a rescued rabbit from a shelter. If your children need to witness the ‘miracle of birth’, there are countless videos that can be rented and there are numerous resources on the web to help you.

[Beka27]

YAY! nice job! i’m really happy you’re doing this! i love the miracle of birth part!

[Author]

Messages