Planning the bonding process/Advice wanted! (unique situation?)

[lindseyh2]

Hi everyone! Once everything has cleared up with Ollie in terms of the fungal infection/possible mites, I really want to try bonding my two again. I am going to have a LOT of free time to devote to this process as I will likely not be working this summer – so I figured it could be a good chance to try the process again. Here’s a bit of background on them,

Ollie:

• Netherland Dwarf, male
• Neutered, ~5 1/2 years old

Leo:

• Mini Lop, male
• Neutered, ~2 1/2 years old

I have attempted to bond them in the past, and always seemed to have minimal negative experiences in fully neutral spaces. But I was never able to solidify their bond previously because of personal reasons, i.e. I started college, and we did not have the space we have now to be able to fully bond them properly, and I didn’t want to have to rush the process in any way and risk bad things happening. So it went on the backburner for a while, and instead, we housed them next to each other in separate exercise pens. They’ve never had any serious fights and basing my knowledge off of my previous experiences with them in neutral spaces, I am confident that they can be fully bonded if I have the time, resources and space to commit to the process.

So, in all honesty, what I am looking for is a bit of advice if anyone something to offer, I feel this is a unique situation as they’ve been living as neighbors for a while with no issues? Each rabbit is well aware that the other exists, and the tiled space (in our home) that is their home base w/ the ex pens technically has both of them living in it, so I am not sure how this will work with territorial issues.

Since they are not able to be bonded until a while after Ollie’s infection is gone, I wanted to take the time to prepare and gather some knowledge on how to go about this. I plan on having a separate exercise pen area (I’ve just purchased another one on Amazon) for their neutral bonding space, and I am also planning on keeping Ollie’s ex-pen on the opposite side of our living room throughout the bonding, as that’s where he is right now anyway. I’ve purchased some all-natural, pet-friendly cleaning supplies to do a thorough cleaning of the tiled area floor, to try and make it less familiar if I were to do sessions over there in the future.

I am thinking that I should place new, neutral toys/chews/mats in the ex-pen devoted solely for their bonding sessions – any thoughts on this? I also don’t know if they’d be too bothered to have a few items that have the other rabbis scent on them, so I am debating on purchasing new if it won’t make a difference either way. Also, the ex-pen I’ve ordered is 8 panels, 24″ wide and 30″ tall, and I planned on using most if not all of that space for the neutral sessions and not go smaller unless I feel it’s necessary.

If you’ve actually read all of this, thank you! I am open to any & all suggestions and thoughts, especially since I am just planning at this point!

[DanaNM]

Hi there, it’s great you are fully planning out the process!

Having them as neighbors for so long will probably work to your advantage, especially if they aren’t acting aggressive towards each other through the fence or anything. It can also help to swap who is on what side for a few weeks before starting sessions. This helps them lose track of who’s territory is who’s, and let them get very used to each other’s scents. Litter box swaps along can work too, if full side swaps aren’t possible.

As for the bonding area, I wouldn’t have anything except the clean floor at first. No toys, mats, or anything. When you get up to longer sessions you can add a pile of hay in the middle and maybe a water bowl (like when you get into 4+hours). I tend to not add a litter box until the very end, like when I feel like they are almost bonded. Puppy pee-pads are really great for bonding as it disguises the floor and makes it so they aren’t just stepping in pee (and of course easier clean up).

If I understand correctly, you will be doing the bonding in the same room that they are in, but in a clean area in a new x-pen? If you can block their sight to their areas that will help. It might also help to disorient them a little by carrying them around in a carrier outside, and then putting them in the bonding area (vs. going straight from their homes to the bonding area). But you’ll just have to try it out and see! Some buns are fine with being in mostly neutral, some need to be in fully neutral (like another room or even another person’s house). But no harm in trying it out to see how it goes! You can even start with some car rides and short sessions in the bathtub with lots of petting before trying out the main bonding area.

Happy to give more tips about specific strategies, but sounds like you’ve got a good plan so far. Just don’t worry too much if you need to try a different strategy. 🙂

 

. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.  

[pinkiemarie]

I 100% agree about shared territory-after any potentially contagious problems are cleared up. If at all possible just trade back and forth daily or multiple times a day where they are in each other’s pens. It will force them into acceptance mode even before the actual dates start. They will have to accept that they are in the other rabbit’s space and when they get home they’ll have to accept that the other rabbit was in their space.

[lindseyh2]

Thanks both of you for the suggestions and advice! Yes @DanaNM they will be in the same room but in the new ex-pen. The puppy pee pads are a great idea that I’d never thought of, I managed to find some on Amazon! I think they’ll be a great help with making it seem a bit different and also covering/protecting our floor.

I agree that I’ll just have to see how the first few sessions go and make adjustments as needed – I’m crossing my fingers for a good result and a great bond between them!

[DanaNM]

Good luck and keep us posted! 🙂

. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.  

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