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The subject of intentional breeding or meat rabbits is prohibited. The answers provided on this board are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. It is your responsibility to assess the information being given and seek professional advice/second opinion from your veterinarian and/or qualified behaviorist.
› Forum › HOUSE RABBIT Q & A › New Bunnies – why are the getting scared??
Hey guys
Im a big animal person and have lots of experience with cats and dogs (currently have 2 cats and 1 dog) – however have very little experience in owning rabbits.
Just over a week ago I decided to buy 2 sister mini lion lop rabbits – they were roughly 9/10 weeks old when I got them.
Before I got them I did a lot of research into keeping rabbits and how to look after them. I spoke to people in pet stores about the best set up for them and things to do when bringing them home.
They have a wonderful 2 story house with lots of toys and fresh hay available to them – and I have tried to provide them with the things they are used to from the pet store where I got them (food bowls, water bottles, hay, pellets etc). They are also allowed out of their home to run around down stairs – supervised of course. They do this every day. Never forced, I just leave the door open for them and they come out as they please and go back as they please. They seem to really love doing this and are constantly binkying which is adorable!
When I first bought them home, it was easy to see they both had different personalities. Pumpkin ( the larger, darker coloured rabbit ) is so nosy! She wants to be in everything you do and has to see everything thats happening. She was very out going and seemed quite confident. Peanut (the smaller, lighter coloured one) is a little more reserved and shy – easily scared – but loves to play with her toys and eats everything in site! They are both charming little things.
I tried my best to keep them in a routine that they were used to when i bought them home. The lady at the shop was so helpful when we went to collect them and gave me lots of advice and information on how shes been looking after them. She told me they were being hand fed marigold every morning and because they have long fur, brushed at least once a day every day. They were even on their way to being litter tray trained.
I have tried to keep this up, however, during the last week since they have been with me – they are becoming more and more frightened – and im worried im doing something wrong! They dont even like being picked up now – and scurry away as soon as they are touched! The only thing that seems to win them round is their apple odor control treats! (they love these and happily take them out of my hand before running away). Pumpkin is still coming out to run around when she realises the door is open, but as soon as i go near her to pet her – or try to pick her up to be brushed – she runs off and makes her way back to her home.
Now – as mentioned previously – i do have 2 cats and a dog too. My dog is obsessed with the rabbits, and I think she might actually think they are her babies. She doesnt do anything horrible to them, just sits looking at them from time to time, but comes away when told. And when the rabbits are running around – she lays on the floor watching them intently and waits for them to come to her (shes very good) – and even then she just looks at them.
The cats dont seem to bothered either. One of them tends to just sleep when they are out and the other is interested for a little while, but then disappears and goes to sleep himself.
I know that rabbits are prey animals and that because of this they are easily scared – but do come round when you win their trust.
I am trying so hard to make this happen – but im just worried that I am making them worse?
Do any of you have any suggestions at all? Am i over reacting?
Theyre also doing a lot of caecotrophs (sorry to be graphic) – which is worrying me too because i know this can be because of stress
Any advice would be much appreciated!!!
Thanks
Heres a picture of my babies
First, keep them completely separate at all times, including play time out of the cage. Bunnies don’t recognize family units, and when hormones kick in they will more than likely become very territorial and aggressive towards each other. So it’s best to keep them completely separate from the start to avoid injuries and to ensure a healthy bond after they have both been spayed.
As for skittishness, you’re honestly just going to have to be patient and not “try”. and you’re going to have to stop trying to pick them up and handle them so much. Yes, lionheads and lionhead crosses require a bit more fur maintenance, but as long as they’re not molting there is really no reason to brush them. It’s only going to make them more terrified. Don’t try to pick them up unless its an emergency. If they need to be groomed, do it on the ground at their level. To really gain their trust just ignore them and let them come to you. Don’t try to get them to move around or do anything. They will when they’re ready. In the mean time, you can hand feed their pellets to them or their hay, sit with them on the floor, and approach slowly. You can ask if they want to be pet by putting your hand palm down, if they accept they will bow their head. If they let you pet them do so only for a few seconds so they aren’t overwhelmed. IF they don’t let you pet them, do not force it or you’ll just reinforce any fears. It can honestly take some bunnies up to a year to feel comfortable.
As for cecals, what’s their current diet like? Excess cecals are usually because the diet is too rich. Until they are 12 weeks old they should be getting only hay and pellets. Unlimited hay and 1/4-1/2 cup of pellets a day. At 12 weeks greens can slowly be introduced and at 6 months fruit and sugary veg can be introduced. Also if you are feeding alfalfa hay and alfalfa pellets you can stop with the alfalfa hay and feed another one like timothy or orchard. Some bunnies can’t handle the excess nutrients in double the alfalfa. They won’t grow any less because of it, and you won’t need to wean them off it at 6 months. It’s also a good idea to check what’s in the pellets. Pet store pellets aren’t always the best and have a lot of added things that aren’t really safe on a bunny tummy.
To be honest, pet stores aren’t really that knowledgeable about bunnies, even when they sell them.
So I should keep the bunnies separate? Or keep them separate from my other pets?
The only reason I got 2 is because everywhere I read said that its cruel to have a bunny alone I only have 1 house for them too so I cant really separate them now… Would they be okay if i had them spayed as soon as they’re 4 months old?
That is some brilliant advice with regards to building up trust and grooming. I’ll stop trying so much and just let them come to me when theyre ready- but give them plenty of opportunity to do so. Maybe just let one out for play time at a time?
Pellet wise I have them on Nutri-Pro which they were on at the pet store (i cant find this anywhere else but the pet store, ill check the nutritional content when i get home later) – planning on weaning to Burgess Excel- Junior And Dwarf Rabbit Food in the next couple of weeks. I am only giving them about 1/2 a cup each a day too – but was thinking about upping this because they seem so hungry all the time – so thanks for that advice! They also have unlimited meadow hay which is filled up at least once a day.
I do give them a treat ball filled with alfalfa once a day which they love – and i did buy them some spring greens which i was planning on introducing to them this week – but maybe i wont now.
Thanks again!
I agree with A&B, pet stores sell you on stuff that vets would never ever suggest you feed or house them in. They should be the last people you ask info for, for any animal. Make sure you get them into a rabbit savvy vet only, for a checkup and to learn exactly what their diet should be and what other needs that should be met for them. Let us know if you have any other questions that we can help you with!
Like BH said, bunny savvy vet will save you headaches. They’re usually also called exotics vets. Females can’t be spayed until 6 months. This ensures proper development of the female reproductive organs.
Sadly, you do have to have them in separate enclosures. Odds are they were also incorrectly sexed, which happens with many young bunnies. It’s really hard to tell what sex they really are until they’ve either dropped or started showing hormonal behaviors. So yes, keeping them completely separate is very essential to their well being. If one is a boy and the other a girl, she can get pregnant as early as 12 weeks, and that is very dangerous. And like I said, bunnies when they reach hormones will basically want to kill each other. Especially females, they are known to be very aggressive and territorial over their space when they hit hormonal age. This can happen as early as 8 weeks or as late as 6 months. It depends on the bunny. There have been bunnies with noses bitten, ear chunks missing, even testicles bitten. I know they may even look sweet together all cuddled up, but that can change in an instant and if you’re not home or near them when it happens it can turn bad.
Yes bunnies do best with a friend, but they need to be fixed and go through the proper bonding process which can take several months, and really shouldn’t be rushed.
Can you separate the enclosure and give the top half to one bunny and the bottom half to the other? You can also buy relatively inexpensive x-pens and house one in there.
Also it’s not really cruel to have a solo bun. There’s really no guarantee that your bunnies will even bond once they have been fixed. We always say you need a contingency plan when you bring two bunnies home because you have no idea how it’s going to turn out. They could be an easy bond and be living together within a month, or they could be unbondable (for a variety of reasons) to each other and you’ll have to decide whether to keep both or rehome one.
I have two solo bunnies and they’re quite happy and content with their lives. One of them has E-Cuniculi and as a result has many health issues, which makes giving him a bunny friend next to impossible because he’s at the vets frequently. So I wouldn’t say it’s cruel at all. It’s more cruel to have two bunnies and not be able to put enough time into both of them or give them the care they need. Some people don’t have the time or money for more than one. So, disregard that statement.
As A&B says, young rabbits are very difficult to sex, and mistakes are very common. If one of your buns is a boy and the other a girl, this will result in babies. If both your buns are boys, they could get into really bad fights when they reach sexual maturity, and it’s not advisable to have two intact bucks live together under any circumstances.
2 intact girls together can work provided they have lots of space and lots of places to hide. If two girls must live together in a cage, they should be spayed and then re-bonded after they have healed, or there will most likely be territorial chasing and fighting.
Most rabbits do want a companion rabbit. Rabbits are social animals, but they are also highly territorial. This is because in nature, they invest a lot of energy and work in building warrens, and thus they can’t afford to be outcompeted/pushed out of their territory. Guinea pigs are migrants and just move to another place if they have to, but rabbits will stand their ground. Do not let their super-cute fluffiness deceive you, deep down, buns are little lions.
I don’t think you are doing anything wrong, their new skittishness could be due to one of two things: They could’ve been scared into submission when they first moved in with you. Most animals keep a very low profile in a new environment. Then, when they start to feel at home, more of their true nature comes out. Most buns don’t like being lifted up, but a bun in a new environment may think it’s safest not to protest. Now they protest. It’s normal, and a step in the right direction, even if it doesn’t seem like it now. Another cause for increased skittishness/fearfulness is the start of puberty. They will be starting puberty around this age, so that’s normal too. Buns are often difficult during early puberty, just like young teenage humans. The first sign of puberty beginning is often fearfulness, often right out of the blue. Baby buns (and little children, puppy dogs etc) love everything and everybody, do not understand danger and are in many ways not very good at taking care of themselves – and they dont have to, because there are adults around them to help them. They can’t however stay babies for ever, obviously. The fearfulness that strikes when puberty starts will get better if the bun is in an environment where it feels safe. Puppy dogs go through a similar period called “spook-age” when they’re afraid of everything, from a crinkling plastic bag in the street to a tree trunk or a trash can. It’s part of growing up. It mellows out to an extent, but the bun (or dog) will never go back to being a trusting baby again.
Lionhead buns need more brushing and combing than short-haired buns. Until they get their adult fur (at around 6 months to a year), they can require brushing at least once a week. You will get to know your buns’ fur and to what extent it tangles. If they get knots, those should be cut out, not combed out. Hopefully they wont get any bad knots, but it can happen.
I think everyone has covered everything pretty well, but I’ll just add some info from my own experiences. Both times I got bunnies they seemed really calm and okay with being handled, then there was that change you experienced and they became much more skittish. I left them alone and let them dictate our relationship on their terms and it took a month or so before they really started to seem to see us as their family and want to be in the middle of things. Our first bunny never grew to like being pet, but she was enjoyable in other ways. Our second bunny likes being pet as long as we don’t force it if he’s not interested. They are very different than dogs or cats and its taken a lot of reading and time to figure them out, but the biggest thing seems to be allowing them to set the pace and terms of your interactions.
Thank you so much everyone.
When I got home this evening they seemed much more settled. I am taking on board all that you have advised and will be taking them to a bunny vet for a check over ASAP!
› Forum › HOUSE RABBIT Q & A › New Bunnies – why are the getting scared??