Is it time to bond them?

[Deleted User]

The boys are still set to go to the bonder hopefully in March, but I’m thinking I might do some small sessions before they go. Would that affect how they’d be at the bonder? Should I just let her do it all? I ask because for the past two weeks of the top is open on Asriel’s cage for even a brief second while Bombur is out, he will hop out and seek him out. I’ve noticed it’s never in an aggressive manner. When this happens they actually seek each other out (meanwhile I have a panic attack and pray no bun gets hurt). If they manage to find each other they just sniff each other all over. The first time it happened Asriel mounted Bombur for like 5 seconds before we split it up, and Bombur didn’t look nervous he just let it happen. They’ve also been spending enormous amounts of time attempting to groom each other through the bars of the cages when one of them is out. It’s kinda cute actually. They’ll stay by their sides either face to face or one grooming the others face for like 10 minutes.

So basically it’s making me wonder if I should start sessions before they see the bonder, or if it would be best to wait for her.

[Mikey]

If bonding would scare you, I wouldnt try it. The bunnies can feel your fear and could react to it negatively towards one another. But, if youre going into bonding confidently and calmly, then I agree they sound ready to start sessions in a neutral space

[Sirius&Luna]

It sounds like they’re pretty ready to start sessions, but I also don’t think there’s any harm in waiting if you don’t want to do it yourself!

[Deleted User]

Thanks guys! I’m thinking I’m going to go ahead and start. It would be nice to come home and let them out together, eventually I know to start in neutral sessions for a short time, and increase their time and space depending on how they behave. Just for reference, at what point would I be able to move away from neutral territory to semi-neutral territory. My husband and I rent the second floor of a house, which gives us two rooms and a bathroom. They are currently being housed in our bedroom, and have never seen the other room or the bedroom. I was going to start sessions and as the progress move them to the second room. At what point would it be allowable to have sessions in the room that they are currently in?

Also any general tips as I begin? I have a large dust pan for separation (in the event I need it), thick work gloves in case of biting, and a squirt bottle in case there’s too much mounting.

[Sirius&Luna]

I think you don’t move from neutral to semi-neutral until you have a successful overnight in the neutral? I think. That’s what I did anyway (in fact I did a few overnights).

If you are bonding with your husband, I would agree between you that if there’s a scuffle you either grab one each, or just one of you goes in to grab. You don’t want to be bumping into each other and getting in each others way while the bunnies continue to fight (Of course, hopefully they won’t fight at all!).

For my first session, I scattered a large cardboard box with bits of kale, and put them both in it. They totally ignored each other and ate the kale, then I took them out before anymore could happen. I think remembering to keep it short is important for early sessions You can also try the scattering food, depending how they both are around food. Weirdly, a few days in, mine ended up having a scuffle over a plate of hay, so you have to play it by ear.

[Deleted User]

You can believe I’m going to make him help The food idea I think could work. They share each others’ hay all the time anyways. They go over to each others’ hay racks and will sit for like 20 minutes just practically offering each other the hay bits they won’t eat. I do know Bombur has a tendency to wolf down food and Asriel likes to savor, so I wonder how that would end up going. Neither one of them have been known to be territorial, except for the whole poop thing. Asriel has managed to hop into Bombur’s cage, and Bombur didn’t care. And when Asriel manages to make it out of his cage during Bombur’s time, neither one seem to exhibit any signs of grunting or violence. Just bum sniffing

[Sirius&Luna]

It sounds like they basically like each other already, so I hope you’ll have an easy time of it! Looking forward to hearing how it goes.

[Rain]

Are they recently adopted bunnies? Or one is? Or did something happen between them and now they aren’t bonded anymore?
I agree that you should start short sessions before going to the bonder. It seems they’re already kind of warming up to each other maybe? That probably means that you could start trying in the neutral area.

[Deleted User]

Nahhh we’ve had them almost a year now. They were together until hormones kicked in, and they’ve been separated ever since. We’ve been waiting for the bonder, mainly because we don’t have the time to commit to fully bonding them ourselves. Long overnight and spending 24 hours consecutively aren’t things we can do. Now that it’s getting close to when we’re sending them to the bonder, we thought it would be a good idea to start doing small sessions before she got them.

[sarahthegemini]

I think a few sessions by you and your husband won’t hurt. It sounds like they are tolerating each other already and that’s the first hurdle. Just in case tho, I would recommend having a saucepan and a spoon or something so you can make a loud noise if you think they’re getting a bit rambunctious. Good luck!

[Deleted User]

I soooooooo feel you on the not having time. It’s no joke trying to get bunnies bonded in between full time working, nevermind school on top!

These two have been neighbors forever, hopefully it’s just like catching up with an old friend But Bombur might have to work on his offensive smell before he can make friends XD I saw your pee post!!

[Deleted User]

LOL BunNoob! Hopefully his little issue will get taken care of tomorrow, starting with a good sanitary shave from his favorite vet. Little man is such a ham at the vet. She picks him up, kisses his cheek, and his eyes are closed in bliss until the exam is over.

I sure hope it’ll be like that with them, assuming Bombur cleans himself up first

[DanaNM]

As far as moving from neutral to semi, I’ve always moved on when I feel confident that the good behaviors have “cemented” in neutral. 

So, for me, that means lots of grooming and snuggling, no food aggression, no chasing or aggresion, etc. Emphasis on both positive and lack of negative. 

Cementing can mean overnight in neutral, or it can mean several days of long sessions (4-6 hours) with the same good behaviors. 

With Bertha and Moose I marathoned, so that meant spent 2 nights in neutral once they started acting “bonded”, which happened about 2-3 days once after starting the marathon. Then once you move to semi-neutral it’s the same. Make sure the “bonded” behaviors are cemented. With Bertha and Bunston I didn’t marathon, and I waited several days of long sessions of good behaviors before moving them to semi-neutral. At that point I didn’t separate them, and they spent two days in semi before moving to their permanent home. That said, they didn’t back track at all once we went to semi-neutral. 

You will be able to gauge your two… it’s normal to backtrack a little when you move to less neutral spaces, but if they back track a lot, that means you moved too fast. Moose and Bertha needed a little time in each new location to re-establish things. But with Bunston and Bertha, it was like someone flipped a switch (after 3 months of strife!), and they didn’t need to reassert dominance in each new territory. 

If you are doubt as to whether it’s time to move to the next step, then stay where you are, as it never hurts to spend a little extra time in neutral territory.  

As far as general tips, my vacuum cleaner is my favorite thing for stopping chasing/scuffling. Squirting water has never really worked for me, but loud noises have. 

. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.  

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