Bringing a third into already bonded pair

[mercurybubbles8]

I started with 2 bunnies – Fluffwho is female and Hoppity who is male. They were siblings and always got along, so I never really had to bond them. They’ve been together about a year and are both fixed.

A few months ago, I got another rabbit – a female named Pudding who I got fixed a little over a month ago. About a week ago, I moved her cage right next to he other two so they could start to get familiar as I start the bonding process.

My question though is what is the next step in attempting to bond? My plan was going to put Fluff and Hoppity in the bathtub and then introduce Pudding to the mix, but I’ve also seen other people say to do one on one first so I’m not really sure. Any help would be great.

[Deleted User]

I’m not very well versed in the bonding aspect, especially on more than two. But, I have read on a lot of other threads that introducing the third rabbit can actually disrupt the bond between the two that are already friends. I would say you should do a bit more pre bonding (at least 1 month) before trying for face-to-face introductions. Hopefully bumping this thread up will get the attention of some other members who have trio bonded buns.

Bianca is a member that just went through this process, so perhaps you can find her thread in the bonding section and get some ideas from that! Good luck!

[Deleted User]

https://binkybunny.com/FORUM/tabid/54/aft/161726/Default.aspx

^^ That is the link to her thread.

[Mikey]

I had a trio who bonded together pretty quickly I had to separate them after a year due to the third bun’s disabilities.

BunNoob is correct that there is a possible split. There are a few outcomes, and before you attempt to bond into a trio, you need to be completely ready for all of these outcomes.

Trio = Bun1 and Bun2 accept Bun3 after proper prebonding and bonding sessions.
1 Pair, 1 Single = Bun1 and Bun2 refuse to accept Bun3 into their bond. Youre left with Bun1 and Bun2 being bonded, and Bun3 staying a single bunny.
1 Pair, 1 Single = Bun1 and Bun2’s bond breaks during bonding, but Bun1 bonds to Bun3. Bun1 and Bun3 bond, but refuse to bond Bun2 into their group, leaving Bun2 a newly single bun refusing to bond into a trio.
3 Singles = Bun1 and Bun2’s bond breaks during bonding, and they refuse to bond back together. Bun3 refuses to bond with either of them. All three refuse to bond to anyone, leaving you with three completely single bunnies.

If you are not prepared for the worst possible outcome, I dont recommend you attempt trio bonding just yet.

Continueing to bond:

Youve just got Pudding and shes newly spayed. Dont do any bonding until two months after her spay to help ensure shes comfortable in her new home, and to ensure most of her hormones have drained. Females can take up to six months for their hormones to drain, so if you notice her acting hormonal (territorial, aggressive, overly mounty, ect) youll have to put off bonding for another full month. Through this time, youll prebond anyway, so its not a total loss if you need to wait.

Prebonding: Keep their cages about 10 inches apart. This way they can see and smell one another, but cannot reach to fight. After a few days, start swapping their items (litter boxes, food and water bowls, all toys, ect) once a day. Let them mark on everything. This lets them know there is another bunny in their territory, and starts to teach them how to share and be comfortable having a “stranger” around.

During this time, you are likely to see some aggression Fluff and Hoppity. Nipping and mounting is acceptable, but chasing, lunging, biting, fur pulling, and boxing is not acceptable. If you see aggression from those two regularly during this step, you will need to separate them into their own cages. If you need to separate them, make sure you set up each cage so all bunnies can see and smell one another but cannot reach. Continue swapping everyones items once a day.

Bonding sessions:
Only start bonding sessions once all three bunnies stop reacting to the item swaps. You can bond one on one to start, but this would require each bun have their own cage, meaning splitting your bonded pair for the time being. Im going to type this out assuming you dont want to split your current pair. *Note* Youll need carriers for bonding sessions to make transport easier, unless you have someone helping you each bonding session. Youll put Pudding in the tub and then add Fluff and Hoppity. Pet everyone for the entire first session. Reminder that nipping and mounting is ok, but chasing, biting, fur pulling, ect is not acceptable. After about two to five minutes, put everyone into their carriers and put them away into their cages. Youll do these few minute sessions about once an hour on the first day of sessions. Always end on a good note (petting) so each bun sees meeting one another as a positive.

Day two of sessions, youll bring them in the same way, but slowly increase the time. Now youll be doing 5 to 10 minute sessions every hour. Day three of sessions, try 10 to 15. Day four, 15 to 30 minute sessions. Day five, 30 minutes to 1 hour. Now, youll stick to 30 minutes to 1 hour sessions for atleast three days. Once they are ok doing hour long sessions multiple times a day for a few days in a row, you can increase time to 2 hours. Again, youll go a few days in a row doing 2 hour sessions. Once they can go a few days with no aggression at all during 2 hour sessions, bump the next few days sessions to 3 hours. Continue the pattern.

Now, once they can go about 4 hours in the tub without any aggression, set up a pen next to the cage they will be sharing/in the room they will be living. Start with a few minute sessions per day there, and increase time very slowly like before. Youll likely see more aggression here as now youre in territory, just remember to go at their speed and dont try to force them together for longer than they are comfortable being together.

Once they can successfully stay in the pen together for about 8 hours, you should start bonding sessions in their final home. Final home being the cage they will share together. Increase sessions slowly like all past bonding sessions.

Once they can go about 8 hours without any aggression in their final cage, you should start a marathon. For this, youll need to have them in your sight for 48 hours straight. Youll even be sleeping next to their cage. It might help to have a friend or family member stay with you for these two days so you can bathe, eat, ect without fear of fighting while youre away. For these 48 hours, they will all stay in their final cage together. Its a test run to see if they can live together happily with no aggression. If they can go this 48 hours without any aggression, you can pretty much consider them a successfully bonded trio

Notes and reminders:
Nipping and mounting is acceptable.
Biting, fur pulling, chasing, boxing, lunging, ect is NOT acceptable and should be stopped immediately.
If the bunnies constantly show a lot of aggression around (example) 30 minutes, have a full day of sessions stopping at 20 minutes. Try 30 minute sessions the next day.
Always go at their pace, and dont be afraid to go back a step if needed.
Have carriers to avoid fighting when you have your back turned when putting one rabbit at a time away.
After they can successfully go about an hour together, add hay to their bonding sessions.
Youll be bonding them in atleast three different areas: the tub, a pen outside of their final cage, and their final cage.
If Hoppity and Fluff’s bond breaks, dont worry yet! Bonded buns can often be bonded back together after a few months apart.

[mercurybubbles8]

It’s going to be 6 weeks on Tuesday since she was spayed. For the last 2 weeks, I’ve had their cages next to each other. They smell each other and follow each other back and forth, but I haven’t seen any real fighting.

I also swapped food bowls today and I thought I would see some reaction, but no one reacted to anything so I guess that could be a good sign.

[mercurybubbles8]

I’ve been switching items the week – today being the litter box – and they haven’t really reacted to anything, so I’m hoping that’s good.

I have noticed the last week that there is a patch of fur above Puddings nose that is getting bigger. I’m thinking one of the other rabbits is biting it off or licking it off through the divider, so I put up a solid divider for now to see if it starts growing back.

[Mikey]

If the patch is bald and/or red but not irritated, it would be more likely ripped off. If it is red and irritated, it would be more likely groomed off. I want to add that ‘following one another in their own cages’ is partial chasing and a sign of aggression.

[mercurybubbles8]

Should I be concerned? I notice every now and then hoppity chases fluff around the cage but at the same time, they lay down next to each other in the cage.

[Mikey]

If they can reach through the bars, youre going to need to separate them further. 10 inches is usually recommended as they usually cannot reach that far. It is a concern if the bald patch is still there and/or getting worse/not healing.

[mercurybubbles8]

I’ve separated the cages and the fur on Puddings nose has grown back, so that’s good.

I’ve been working on the prebonding for the last few weeks with switching items back and forth. Still see no reaction from Pudding, but Hoppity will still chase Fluff around in their cage. There’s no fighting or fur pulling, just the chasing. I’m not sure if this bonding is going to happen since Hoppity still seems to be pretty aggressive.

[Mikey]

Some bonding just takes longer. I wouldnt rule it out yet. With time, Hoppity should stop caring about sharing items

[mercurybubbles8]

Update. I’ve been switching items for a while and things seem to be okay. I also tried bonding this time by putting the three of hem in a laundry basket and placing them on the dryer while it’s running. It seems to be working since Pudding and Hoppity are right next to each other with no signs of aggression. I figured I would do this a few more times and then next weekend try to go to something bigger like the bathtub.

[mercurybubbles8]

I’ve been putting them together in a neutral space for about a week. Fluff and Hoppity are still close, but Pudding won’t lay down next to them. The only interaction is some quick grooming on the head or putti their heads together, but most of it Is them nipping at the butts and chasing each other around in a circle. I tried a marathon session for 2 days, but still chasing it seems. I’m going back to morning and evening to see if maybe they need more individual. Things are going very slowly though so I’m starting to think they may have to live separately.

[Mikey]

Always stop chasing as soon as it starts. Its how full blow fights start, so you want to stop it asap. Otherwise, it sounds ok. Ignoring one another and grooming is what you are looking for

[mercurybubbles8]

Now here’s a slightly related question.

I’m going to be working with Pudding on rabbit hopping/agility. She seems the most comfortable with the harness and being led on the leash. Because of this, she may be separated from the other two for a few hours. Each time I bring her back, am I going to have to start the bonding process from the beginning or is it more like there should be no issue, but if there is I have to start again

[Mikey]

Youll likely need to rebond them every time if she will be in a room with other rabbits, even if its only for an hour or two out of the whole event. If this is the case, it is honestly best to leave her single so they dont have to continuously go through stress every time she goes to agility.

[Author]

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