Sorry that happened to you! I would be so furious with those roommates. Hiding animals is no fun and I know how stressful that is.

I actually have a box of those exact grids. I haven’t had any other kind to compare them with but they seem like good quality to me. If it were me I would try for at least four grids per boy if you have enough space to work with.

I actually don’t use them as a cage. I can set a 3×2 up and take a picture with my boy in it so hopefully it will give you an idea if you think it will work. If I recall correctly he’s just a little bit smaller than your boys (he’s 4.5 lbs). Better yet I can set up two 3X2’s so you can see them side by side. I can put my girl in the other but she’s only about 3.5 lbs. I need to set them up around my TV stand anyway so this will motivate me to finally get that done.

You can always buy metal zip ties. Should be harder for them to cut those.
https://www.mcmaster.com/cable-ties

You could try a magnet solution like the ones on cabinets, you just need to make sure it’s strong enough.

Well they were very confused but the blueberries made it worth it .

I was going to throw a litter box in them but I use corner ones and wasn’t sure how they compare to what you use.  Same with a water dish, food dish etc.  These will at least give you a general idea.  I left them up for now so let me know if you want me to do it again with some things in them or any other views that might help. 

I hope these help!

If you buy more grids, elevation can go a long way. It can be fun, and they don’t need ramps to get from one grid-level to another, so it doesn’t make you “lose” space by needing to put a ramp.

When buying the grids, just from my experience with Wick’s hutch, definitely go for the more “expensive” options. The cheaper ones can be warped… making building something secure really frustrating. I couldn’t use a lot of the grids I bought because they were slightly tilted, so they wouldn’t click tightly in all the connecting corners, which over many grids is not very secure!

Zip ties are good, and you can put them perhaps at the tops and bottoms, and then cut off the tail end, that way they are less accessible?

Also, if you can get grids that are powder-coated rather than rubber/plastic coated that may be of some help. My first cage setup had the rubbery/plastic-y coating and Olaf loved to nibble on it so it looked like he was a vicious beast with all the missing shredded bits. The powder-coated grids don’t have a coating that they can remove. Either way, they both work and your boys might be less of a monster than Olaf is.

Also, Olaf is 3 1/2 pounds and I have him in an NIC cage that is 2×5 grids right now. I’d guess you’d want to go 3 grids deep for your boys since they are bigger but the length is up to you and the size of your space. If you eventually do go vertical the size is less worrisome because they have more areas to hope around in.

I use coroplast as the liner. It comes in sheets that you can cut and score to make into “boxes” that fit inside your grids but I’ve seen plenty of people use plywood or other liner materials. I bought my cage setup as a kit from Guinea Pigs Cage Store but I would like that might get pricey for two bunnies. DIY for the win!

My pleasure! Glad they helped!! I just measured the tiles and they are 18X18 in case that helps compare to their litter boxes. The tiles against the wall are probably the best one to compare since the aerial shot was the most helpful and those are only 17X18. I measured the tile Doodles was sitting on because the grid wasn’t at the end of the tile and that is 17X14.5.

They were super easy to put together. They fit pretty snuggly in the connectors if you end up using them so that’s good. I am not sure how they would hold up to a determined bunny though. The box doesn’t come with enough connectors to make a back wall however. The only issue I had was deciding which side I wanted facing out. Let me know if you need any other pics or details!

ETA: I know you said 4 won’t work but let me know if you want to see Doodles in a 3×3 if you think that would work in your space.

Sounds like a good plan!

Haha. Maybe he’ll get used to it!! I call Doodles Doodledoodledoodledo all the time and I’m not sure he cares much for that either.

Good luck with the move and I hope you all enjoy the new home!

I’m looking at making one of these cages too for a future bunny, Is the hole spacing too big? I have no idea what the max is but I was looking and these are 1.5 inch holes. Good luck in getting the cage to fit in a small space! I know how difficult it is!

Just out of curiosity can’t you buns just bounce their bunny butts right out of there? Indie can jump stupid high.

So many ideas here!

I don’t mess around with the connectors, I just use cable ties. If you trim the ends they really don’t even notice them. The connectors are annoying to work with and can pop off since they aren’t flexible.

For just 1 bun, I had 3 long, 2 deep, 3 high, with two levels (dowels with plywood, so I didn’t use connectors at all for the levels). Once I had a pair, I added another level up, and added some dowel supports in the corners. Everything is anchored to a thick plywood base so it’s very stable.

If you go any deeper than 2, it can be hard to reach the bun in the back without crawling in! So plan your doors wisely!

@ Kiki – Wick’s “pen” area of his NIC hutch is 2 walls high, which he can jump over, but he doens’t feel comfortable doing it and landing on the floor on the other side. He did it once and he was like “Never again”. So the ability will be there, but there can be things that dissuade/persuade a rabbit to do so in some scenarios!

Your boys are quite persistent aren’t they, haha. They got fight in them FREEDOM!

Sounds like Wick is quite a bit more wise than my Indie.  She is either fearless ,or a little bit of a dumby  I have to say the first time she jumped up on our bed I was shocked , it’s pretty high up.  And then she taught herself to use the kitty steps to get down…