Hi there, welcome, sorry you are having trouble!
So, spaying might help, but it might not. But there are things you can do to make her home more appropriate and bun-proof, and the main reason to spay female bunnies is to prevent reproductive cancers. Unlike in guinea pigs (which to my understanding are usually only spayed if a reproductive problem has already come up?), female rabbits have rates of uterine cancers somewhere between 60-85% depending on the age of the rabbit (I think the risk by age 4 is about 50 or 60%). So, for that reason, it’s recommended to spay within the first few years of life.
In the meantime though, I think you can remedy her home so she can’t destroy it so much, as I think a lot of the behaviors you’re seeing are just normal bunny things. My girl also loves to pee on soft things and dig in fleece. Coroplast isn’t great for bunny litter boxes as they can just chew through it and destroy it. Basic cat litter pans work great. If she digs, you can get a litter box screen, which separates the bedding from the hay so she can’t dig, or just get a huge litter box, so if she digs it doesn’t make a huge mess. (I use a concrete mixing tub from the hardware store for my bonded pair of buns, and no matter how much they dig, it mostly stays in the box).
Hay should only be in the litter box, as buns definitely like to pee on their hay. Again, a larger more sturdy box will help keep it there, and you can also use a hay rack that is only accessible from inside the box. Hay racks sold for piggies and other small pets are usually too small, but a cardboard box cable tied to the cage wall with a hold cut out works great. Lots of people also use those things that are meant to store extra plastic grocery bags.
The cage floor itself doesn’t need to have blankets or bedding, especially if she is chewing it (ingesting is dangerous). My CC condo has a plywood base with peel and stick tiles for the first level. I do have some fleece covering the upper levels, but I have it stretched tight and clamped on, so they are less inclined to dig in it. Having hard surfaces around the litter box also helps with litter training.
Finally, 1 hour a day is not quite enough. I know your schedule is really busy, but if you can aim to give her at least 2 hours morning and evening when she’s most active, this should help as well.
Since I know guinea pig houses are similar but different to bunnies, here’s some housing suggestions (https://binkybunny.com/BUNNYINFO/GreatHabitats/tabid/229/Default.aspx)
and bunny proofing tips (https://binkybunny.com/BUNNYINFO/tabid/53/CategoryID/8/PID/940/Default.aspx), to hopefully make it easier for her to be out running around (without having to watch her like a hawk), and to make her home more suitable.
To not get overwhelmed, I think a bigger, more sturdy litter box will solve many of your problems right away!
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The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.