It’s most likely a mixed breed with some lop in it, which is why one ear is up and one ear is down.

First, if you intend on keeping this bunny, please read up on proper care. Bunnies are high maintenance and can be quite fragile as pets. They need a lot of time to run around and exercise, they have a very specific diet, and they need a lot of attention and care.

Most people here will not be in favor of being outdoors, because like I said they require a lot of your time and attention. If you house your bunny inside you are better able to determine the signs that they are unwell. Bunnies often hide their illnesses, and every second is crucial if they are sick.Bunnies outside are susceptible to not only predators, but to different illnesses, especially if you have open ground and not a protected bottom. They can become prone to flystrike, warbles, and if you live in the UK and Europe several different diseases, and also the varied changes in weather. If you decided to house it outside you will need a proper housing, not just an open bottomed kennel.

A bunny diet consists of unlimited hay, and pellets, greens, and fruit are all determined by weight and age. Poops should be pea sized and look like cocoa puffs. Diarrhea in a bunny is an emergency and needs immediate vet attention as it is fatal. Cecals are the other type of poops they have, which look like little grapes. They eat their cecals, so you really shouldn’t see them around. If you see a some that are uneaten, you most likely need to change the diet up as their diet is too rich.

Bunnies can be litter boxed trained, especially if they are spayed or neutered. A litter box with carefresh bedding or wood stove pellets is a good option (do not use wood or pine shavings), and keep it full of hay as bunnies go to the bathroom where they eat. You will need to change the litter box every 2-3 days for sanitary reasons. If you find out it’s a female, spaying is absolutely essential to prolong her life, as unspayed females have high risks of uterine cancer. If they are not fixed they may also have some behavioral issues as well.

Bunny care for the most part is inexpensive. Hay costs $20-30 for 10 pounds, bedding varies depending on what you decide to use , pellets are $15 for a 5-10 pound bag, and greens are varied in price as well. Vet visits are costly, and you should see a vet a least once a year for overall maintenance, and if you go for nail trimmings those can add up as well. A typical vet visit can cost between $50-150. They are considered an exotic animal and must only be seen by a bunny-savvy exotics vet. Emergency care costs are very expensive, and sometimes you do need to go for the sake of your bunny. A bout of GI Stasis can easily run you up $2000.

I hope this helps you to make an informed decision. I’m not trying to scare you off, but I do want you to know how much work they require.

A&B has brought up some excellent points. Pet rabbits are notiriously miscategorized as children’s pet, similar to a fish, when in fact, many rabbit owners would agree that a rabbit at its bare minimum is as much work as a dog, if not more. Me personally, Wick is much more work mentally, physically, and financially than any dog.

Feel free to ask more questions as you consider this decision.

If you are someone who does not have stable, independent finances, a mode of transportation, or do not have 100% contribution to your living space (i.e. living with parents or roommates), it is important that everyone is on board with a rabbit. Finances can be difficult, as most major rabbit medical expenses emerge suddenly and there’s little waiting time. Space wise, rabbit spaces must be rabbit proofed and the expectation for pee and poop .. should be expected.

Highlighting what A&B stated, rabbits can only see exotic, rabbit vets. There may be many or none in your area, depending on where you are. There are practices that dog/cat vets do routinely that are lethal to rabbits, including medication and pre-post op procedures. Rabbit illnesses and health ailments appear much differently than other animals, so even well meaning, informed non-exotic vets will not really have good advice or a sense of direction.

The others brought up great points. I also suggest getting the bun to a rabbit savvy vet immediately so they can check the bun and tell you the proper housing for where you want to put him and the proper diet so you don’t kill him.

Unless you say you have knowledge with bunnies, people are going to give you the entire skinny on bunny care. We see too many people find strays and don’t know what to do with them, decide to keep them, and then realize they are in over their heads. So as I said, it was meant to be informational, as you didn’t say that you knew about bunny care. As for a pen outside while you’re out there, you can easily transfer litter box from inside to outside so you don’t have to worry about what to do with their waste. it’s totally fine if they pee in the grass. Poops I would still toss else where. I did read that, but the beginning of when you start talking about the pen made it seem like the bunny would be outside permanently. Again, my response was meant to be merely informational.

If housing outdoors, I think you should look into an option other than an x-pen. Rabbits are burrowing creatures, so I think it is unrealistic to expect 1-2 inches of buried xpen to keep them enclosed.