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Hi.
I have a 10 month male bunny, we have a good relationship he flops,binkies almost all of the time he is out of his cage before laying next to me for headrubs and face massages for up to an hour!
But while he is out of his cage he will also jump on top of his cage and other high things where he could hurt himself (he jumped on a box and slipped yesterday I was terrified he hurt himself)
He then went onto digging at the carpet and I couldn’t stop him so I had to put him in his cage, I’ve spoken to the place I got him and they advised me that he sounds lonely and may need a companion and that the rspca would be helpful at matching a partner for him.
However, I am concerned that if I were to get another bunny that they wouldn’t get along, Slush has lots of room on his own but with a second bunny I don’t have the space to keep them separated and don’t want to be returning bunnies to shelters.
I am at a wits end what to do. Slush seems very happy in himself but at the same time lonely and I am just unsure what to do about the situation.
I am willing to consider a friend for him if this is in his best interests I just want to make sure I get it 100% right for him
Any advise appreciated ![]()
How much time do you spend with him each day?
Most rabbits are happier with a companion, as naturally rabbits do live in large groups. That doesn’t mean single bunnies can’t be happy though, and of course there are always some rabbits that hate all other rabbits.
My rabbits jump on things, I don’t think that’s a reflection of loneliness – some rabbits are just more adventurous than others.
Getting a second bunny that he wouldn’t get along with is a concern, but MOST bunnies can be bonded if you go about it the right way. Is your bunny neutered?
Perhaps you could talk to the RSPCA about fostering a bunny for a couple of months, so if the bond doesn’t work out you don’t have to feel bad about ‘returning’ it. For the very least, you’d need to keep them separated for about 6 weeks while you let the new one settle in, then did some pre-bonding so if there’s no space in your apartment for even temporary seperation, it probably won’t work.
If you head over to the Bonding forum you can find out a bit more about the steps involved in bonding, and see the problems and successes other people have had, so you can decide if you have the time to commit to it. It is a lengthy and stressful process, but seeing two bunnies snuggle up together is the best ![]()
I do work shifts do this can upset all routines although I am trying harder with feeding and there is at the moment no more than an hours difference. I try to let him out for a minimum of, 3 hours a day he also gets little runs around while I prepare his food twice a day and if I can’t commit to his 3 hours I do let him out for as long as possible. On days off I try to give him more.
He is very adventurous and social interaction is paramount with him as he doesn’t interact with his toys, he will in his cage but out of his cage its all about me and him. He is very clingy to me or seems to be I’m not sure if this is a good bond or a sign of loneliness.
I could work out temporary separation but I don’t have neutral unhoused grounds I am guessing this would just make bonding a longer process? I am happy to take the time to try bond my bun I just don’t want to make a rash decision…
I will definitely be doing extensive research on this and keeping an eye here thank you so much for your insight.
They are the best I cant go into a pet shop without looking at the little bundles all huddled up or flopped over
The thing is, if you spend 3 hours a day with him then that’s still 21 hours he spends alone. I think a friend probably would benefit him. As a human that works and then needs to sleep etc, even if you spend all your spare time with your bunny, they still end up alone for the majority of the day.
When my bunnies original bonded partner died, I noticed she became much more clingy with me, so I would say it could be a sign of loneliness.
As for neutral space – if you started to make somewhere like the bathroom off limits to him now, then gave it a thorough clean and blocked some bits off to make it different, that would probably work as neutral space. You can also buy pop-up puppy pens quite cheaply on amazon, that also work as DIY neutral space.
Its great that you’re looking into all the possibilities before jumping in though!
Perhaps you can create a larger free roam space that you can leave him in unsupervised. 3 hours is not a lot of time. I agree that the jumping is simply curiosity and adventure since he’s out so little. The carpet digging is a natural behavior, that could come out of frustration of not being out very long, rather than being lonely.
Wick is a single bun and I work full time, but he has free roam of the entire apartment while I’m gone, in addition to his other parent that’s home for a bit while I’m gone. If Wick was in a cage while I was gone, I could imagine he’d feel isolated and frustrated that he could not get around, but being free roam, although I’m not there, he can run around and have the place to himself until I’m home.
The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.
The plan was that when we got him he could be free roam but it proved more difficult than we first thought.
I have been told about a place that does customised cages and I do intend on getting him a bigger area. I wanted to do this before getting a second bunny but I worry the second bunny would be envious of the difference in living spaces.
And when he is out I’m trying to build things that are safe for him to climb on so he has more to do.. It has given improvement on his behaviour as he is very inquisitive and likes new things
3 hours is just a minimum but I do see your points.
It’s great you’re looking into options. Using the c&c grids to cover objects is helpful. For example, I have 5 ziptied together and they cover my TV stand. Its not unsightly or anything since I purchased black ones and the TV is mainly black, and it’s enough to deter climbing or jumping into the equipment. Also, rabbits can be somewhat visual jumpers. They will not jump unless the perceive there’s solid ground. It’s also the same reliance of vision for barriers, so even a piece of cloth draped to create a ceiling and deter jumping. But just be careful because draped clothes will also look like solid ground. The draped cloth works for covering x pen tops and such.
The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.
On a side note, logic toys can help provide additional mental stimulation to buns who are as inquisitive and curious as Slush
. Another member was discussing about building an obstacle course for their bun. Maybe that would be something Slush would be interested in since he likes to climb on things and explore?
I’ve been after grids since day 1 and the only ones we could find we gave them a try but he could fit his head through and got himself panicked, I’ve been weary since since nowhere seems to know where to get them. I’ll have to look online again for them as more space is definitely needed! As for solid ground he is quite adventurous there’s a very narrow top to the fire place and he has found ways to climb onto this and just falls straight off. He’s a brave little soldier I’ll give him that!
I’ve also looked at obstacle things for him but all I can seem to find is small rabbit or Guinea pig stuff, he is a big boy.. Any ideas on what to search for for the larger rabbits? I obviously want to buy bigger I don’t want to risk him getting stuck in anything
I do rearrange his tunnels. And toys with cardboard over them so at the moment he has a seesaw/slide type of thing and a few tunnels plus chews balls and toys he can throw around.
I appreciate all of your answers and I am definitely thinking and will be discussing with my partner how we can go about making some of these happen
I used to have a cardboard castle (until it was chewed to death) that would be suitable for a medium sized bunny. They’re available on Amazon, but you can also make your own castles by cutting holes in lots of boxes and putting them together
they love exploring it, jumping out of its windows, chewing new doors in it, and snoozing in it ![]()
I’ve looked at those castles and avoided them out of fear they wouldn’t hold my buns weight.
I have a friend with a male bunny who for personal reasons has to move to a relatives who has allergies and is looking to rehome, I’ve said I will talk to my partner about taking him in on a temporary basis if I can arrange the extra space (neutral grounds still an issue) I don’t think he has been neutered though would this make a difference in how they get along? If I thoroughly clean slush room would this help?
Yes, you absolutely shouldn’t put an unneutered male bunny with your male bunny, as they could have a nasty fight. You could of course house him separately until he was neutered, then start the bonding steps from there, but he it’s important that he’s neutered first.
Cleaning thoroughly and rearranging a room can make it neutral, especially if it’s not a room that he spends a lot of time in anyway ![]()
