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The subject of intentional breeding or meat rabbits is prohibited. The answers provided on this board are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. It is your responsibility to assess the information being given and seek professional advice/second opinion from your veterinarian and/or qualified behaviorist.
I have had my bunny for almost 5 years now, and he has been alone for pretty much the entire time because I lived with my mother who did not want a second rabbit. I have my own place now and have decided it is time for him to have a friend. I just went ahead and purchased a 48 inch Petwerks double level bunny abode condo which I’m super excited about; I think it should be plenty of room while I am at work and school.
Anyway, my question concerns bonding my bun. I am going to take him to the local humane society and do some speed dating with their rabbits and see if he likes anyone. If he does happen to get along with one of them I’m going to bring them home. My question concerns their housing during this time period; I will have the cage that bun currently lives in and the larger condo. Can I keep new bun in the regular cage and old bun in the condo until they’re bonded? Or will my old bun establish his territory in the condo and not want the other one in his space, even if they are ok in supervised neutral territory? The condo was pretty expensive and I don’t want to go out and get a third cage for my apartment. Thanks in advance!
I’m sorry, but a 48 inch condo is not enough room at all – at the minimum he needs to be able to take 4 hops across his hutch, stand up in it, and lay out width ways. It’s certainly not big enough for two. I would advise you get an X-Pen to add to the front, as a ‘front yard’ for the condo, that they can run around in. If his current cage is smaller than that, then you really need to increase his space.
While you’re bonding them, keeping them in two separate cages/areas is essential. You need to give the new bun at least two weeks to settle in, then you need to spend a month pre-bonding them, so swapping them between each others areas, so they get used to the smell. Then you can introduce them in a neutral area. It’s better to have a totally new area for them to move in to together, but if you disinfect and rearrange, then an existing one can work as well.
Is your bunny neutered? That’s the first step.
48 inches? And that’s bigger than what your bun is currently in? I’m sorry but that is completely unacceptable. Focus on upgrading his space before you think about getting another bun.
Agree with the others. This condo is not really adequate for one bun, let alone two. The problem with cages that have several levels is that when you calculate how much space the bun needs, only a single level matters, because adequate cage size is determined by how far the bun is able to hop/run in one go. So a second or third level can’t be taken into consideration. The extra space is nice to have, of course, no matter what. I checked out the petwerks website, if I’m not mistaken, the condo you bought costs $300. I don’t know if you would be able to return this, but you could easily build pretty much the exact same cage with a couple of packs of NIC grids and some plywood, for less than $100. If you can’t return it, getting an x-pen like S&L said would be a great idea.
If his old cage is smaller than this, I wouldn’t use it at all, even temporarily.
Sorry, I know it must suck to get replies like this after spending all that money.
The minimum cage space for a rabbit is 18sqft, which is 2592sqin. Rabbits also need double this space for atleast 7 hours a day, every day. You can severely limit a bun’s life by keeping them in a small area for so long. Being in such a small space can also cause pain (which rabbits will hide), stomach problems, depression, and stress. Youre abusing him by keeping him in a space so small that he cannot really move. Do not get a second rabbit until you fix your current situation. If you cannot give him the minimum space, rehome him.
You can buy 8sqft exercise pens for 40$ to 80$ a piece; getting two will be big enough for one bun, and getting four will give him the rest of the space needed if you cannot free roam him for atleast 7 hours a day. You can find these at almost any pet store.
EDIT The new cage you got him seems to be 7.7sqft/1104 inches, not 48inches. But that is still over 10sqft too small for a rabbit.
I guess I forgot to mention my bunny is rather small – about 2 pounds. He is able to stand up and stretch out in the cage he’s currently in I’m not keeping him in a box. On top of this, when I am home and he is allowed to roam, he spends a good portion of his time inside the cage with the door open anyway, so he must like it in there. I don’t think it’s fair to say I ‘abuse’ him when there’s thousands of rabbits being released into the wild to starve or get eaten.
From house rabbit society: One guideline to go by is at least 8 square feet of enclosure space combined with at least at least 24 square feet of exercise space, for 1-2 rabbits, in which the rabbit(s) can run and play at least 5 hours per day. You can build or buy your rabbit a two-story “condo” with the floors connected by a ramp–they love this!
Also found on Michigan State University’s website that the minimum floor space for a single rabbit weighing under 4.4 pounds is 1.5 square feet.http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/determining_cage_size_for_rabbits
Seems there are a lot of opinions out there and can’t be one size fits all.
The minimum space is around 18sqft per rabbit. Without a measuring system, the minimum is four large hops forward, four large hops backwards, and able to binky (about 2 feet high for a 2lbs rabbit on average). Per floor level. I say this as someone with three rabbits (1.2lbs, 2lbs, and 3.5lbs), your new condo is way too small for one rabbit, much less for two rabbits.
Also note that 24sqft + 8sqft is 32sqft, which is what I said a rabbit needs minimum 7 hours a day. You proved my point here by that post…
A 48sqin cage would be abuse. See my edit as you do not have a 48sqin cage, rather an almost 8sqft cage which is still 10sqft too small. 8sqft is not abuse, 48sqin would be. 8sqft is too small and will still limit life and health, but its better than 48sqin.
FWIW, the link you put is more so for meat rabbits and breeding rabbits. People keep them in the smallest cages possible so that they can hold more rabbits for more profit. The link says thats the smallest you can go without being arrested for rabbit abuse while breeding and meating. Meat rabbits deserve more space, too, but thats another story for another time.
I second returning the condo if possible. Again, you can buy two 8sqft pens at most pet stores for 40$ to 80$ (or 80$ to 160$ for both). Proper space and much cheaper than the condo you ordered.
Just because some rabbits get abused by being let out in the wild to fend for themselves or starved doesn’t give you a free pass to not provide adequate housing.
Mikey I think the 48 inches was the length of the cage?
Hold up, I just looked at that msu link. Am I misreading or does that suggest that for my 2.5kg/5lb bunnies, 3 square feet would be acceptable per bun?!
Yes, Sarah. Those are the bare minimums legally for breeding meat rabbits. Its really sad what they have to go through Since those conversations are not allowed on this website, thats all I can really say on the subject and was only said because the link was posted.
That breaks my heart, My boys deserve so much more space than that minimum 3sqft requirement,
So the house rabbit society recommended 8 sq ft is borderline abuse? Also no one really responded to the fact that he spends a good deal of his out time inside the cage anyway so what does that say? If he hates it so much and is being abused why would he ever go back home in the case of his own volition? Edit: also forgot to mention that when I click on the MSU link on their page I don’t see anything about meat rabbits just pet rabbits.
anon76, I believe the reference about abuse was not directed to you, it may have been about other types of housing brought up in this thread.
Im just going to lock this thread for now so everyone can take a breather and hopefully then we can come back to the original question. It’s true. there are a lot of differing opinions out there (internet, books, local groups, pet stores, vets) about rabbit care!
Thanks JerseyGirl! Yes, a breather needed.
This thread has gotten sidetracked: Misunderstandings now due to that. The “abuse” was referred to a link that was posted regarding how rabbit breeders cage their rabbits I believe, not to the OP. Also, the cage itself is not just 48 inches. It is a double condo which then allows for more space – while the HRS does have the general guidelines, it does also take the rabbit size into consideration saying at the minimum 4 -6 times the size of a bunny when stretched out. They also mention “You can build or buy your rabbit a two-story “condo” with the floors connected by a ramp–they love this!
Many rescues, including HRS chapters, recommend the Leith Petworks condos as their enclosed time as a minimum. They are sturdy, don’t have the wire flooring and offer several level options. Of course there is additional space for exercise and out time, but the OP did not say their bunny was going to be staying in the cage 24/7.
More assumptions than questions happening – so let’s improve that.
Here is what rabbit.org recommends when it comes to cage size.
What size housing is best? – Source http://rabbit.org/faq-housing/
Bigger is better! A rabbit’s home should be at least 4-6 times the size of your bunny when he’s entirely stretched out–more if he is confined for a large amount of the day. Enclosure sizes also should be decided in conjunction with the amount of exercise time and space the rabbit has. One guideline to go by is at least 8 square feet of enclosure space combined with at least at least 24 square feet of exercise space, for 1-2 rabbits, in which the rabbit(s) can run and play at least 5 hours per day. You can build or buy your rabbit a two-story “condo” with the floors connected by a ramp–they love this!
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When you come back to this, please refocus on the OP original question. Be helpful and respectful.
Helloworld!!
You’re better off building your own space with NIC grids or X-pens.
Rabbits are animals that are (unfortunately) marketed as cage-dwelling, low maintenance, easy starter pets for kids….this is just completely untrue. But, because of the way that they are marketed, I would argue that nearly ANY commercially produced “rabbit enclosure” is too small. It’s just the way that things go with rabbits, and most people who get a rabbit on a whim don’t understand that their needs are much, much more than is advertised.
In my opinion, a rabbit will be happiest when allowed to be free roaming. I understand that this is not an ideal situation for any and all owners, but it is something to be considered. They are tiny little prey animals, so they are naturally inclined to be high energy (so they can be alert and respond to predators). When you have a house rabbit, they don’t have any predators but they still need a way to expend their extra energy. It simply can’t be done in a small space. My bunny will zoom around the apartment lighting fast- something that she very much enjoys to do and she just couldn’t do that in a small space. They need several feet of space- ideally a large space as Mikey suggested- to be able to do the activities that they enjoy. Aside from that, there are physical and mental health benefits from exercise- bunnies can get fat and depressed just like humans!
Can I keep new bun in the regular cage and old bun in the condo until they’re bonded? Or will my old bun establish his territory in the condo and not want the other one in his space, even if they are ok in supervised neutral territory?
My advice is not to use the new condo until the bunnies are fully bonded. I do think there is a chance your current rabbit may claim it as his otherwise. Given that it has wood and carpet components, it would be hard to “neutralize” from scents once you go to put a bonded pair in there.
Using an exercise pen is really useful for bonding. It’s something that can be packed away after use, but you could also use as temporary enclosure for your rabbit and also move it to different area for bonding sessions. Lots of people start of bonding sessions in a bathroom, kitchen or laundry room. Once things have progressed, it’s good to have the rabbits in an enclosure together for longer periods of time where you can keep watch. A pen is ideal for this and if you need to create a neutral area, it can be set up on a new rug, tarp or blankets. This may be important if your current rabbit already has access to much of the apartmeny.
Towards the end of bonding we aim to have the rabbits together 24/7 and again, a pen is super useful for this “cementing” period in the new bond.
It’s a good item to have afterward also. Either to add to the habitat (as already suggested) or use to block of areas of the room you’d rather rabbits didn’t get too. It’s not uncommon for newly bonded rabbits to be very mischeivious! It’s also really handy for temporary accomodation for a pair if you have to take them out of town.
Im probably coming accross as an exercise pen salesperson! Lol,
If it’s not something currently in your budget, ask around if there is one you could borrow. Maybe the rescue even have one you could use??
When does your bun go to meet potential bond mates?
That is a very nice condo. A NIC condo might be more economical, but there’s nothing wrong with purchasing something more expensive. This particular one would be adequate for a small bunny as long as they have plenty of exercise time outside of the condo. I like the idea of attaching an exercise pen to the condo to give some extra floor space when for when bunny needs to be “contained”.
I agree with Jersey. It would be best to not introduce the condo until the bunnies are pretty well bonded. It will be easier to transition them into the condo together if it is new and neutral territory. Using exercise pens as temporary enclosures would probably be your best bet.