For general knowledge that is essential, go to the bunny info section of this site and read about:

1) Healthy Diet
2) Habitat (read the bottom text before looking through pictures!)
3) Bunny proofing
4) Litter box training (yes, you need a litter box!)
5) FAQs

..you’re going to get a lot of long responses on this post. I recommend pulling out some paper and heading each with a different topic:
1) Diet
2) Ways to build trust
3) Things not to do (rabbit interaction)
4) Things not to do (diet, habitat, etc.)
5) Behaviors to expect and their meaning
6) Signs of illness
7) Signs of good health
8) … And others.

This will help organize your thoughts as you learn more. In the end, rabbits have varying personalities, so one of the most vital things you and your family can do is really observe your rabbits behavior from a distance, as well as see what he’s like with humans (does he like cuddles or no? Respect boundaries. The rabbit dictates cuddle time, not the human).

Since rabbits are prey animals, you need to remember that 1) they are programmed to hide illnesses so predators don’t pick them out, 2) they are always partially or fully on guard to be attacked, thus running and hiding is common, 3) they are not inherently cuddly, though there are exceptions. Don’t force pick ups and pets until/unless your rabbit shows a developed trust and comfort with it.

You need both your sons to be on the same page about how to treat a pet rabbit because it’s wildly different than dogs or cats. I encourage you to have them read the info on this website too. Everyone who has access to your new rabbit should be informed on proper care and diet. It could be a great family task, getting together and making notes, care guides, cleaning schedules, scheduling dates with rabbit in turns so everyone gets time to have the rabbit assimilate to their presence… A rabbit is equally if not more of a commitment than a dog or cat, and can easily be more expensive. This reminds me, did the vet mention neutering? This is important for male rabbits to curb destructive behaviors that may result from territorial instinct and mating frustration. Some males never develop these behaviors, so you can choose to wait and see, or have it done when your rabbit is healthy and best fit to undergo the simple operation.

I will say another vital piece is having a rabbit experienced vet. This is soooo important. Not a vet who occasionally sees rabbits. Not a vet who has decades of experience with dogs and cats and other animals… No. A rabbit vet. Rabbits are so different and expertise is key. This is why vet bills are typically higher because the vet selection is smaller than dog/cat vets. You can search for exotic vets, who typically are very rabbit experienced if you cannot find an exclusive rabbit vet. Wick’s vet is primarily a bird vet, but the vet is exotic and works with all animals who are not dogs/cats, so very experienced with rabbits.

Feel free to post with questions! With rabbits, a lot of decisions, unfortunately, can have great intentions, but end up making a rabbit ill. So never hesitate.

Also, last bit. The experience of owners on this site varies, but generally everyone is quite familiar or is learning. With it being online forums, sometimes, people can come off as a bit rude? How could you do that, that’s cruel, how did you not know that… Etc. Please don’t take it to heart. Many of the users read about neglectful owners so they like to be very to-the-point when they sense an animal is not in optimal conditions. This forum has rules against rudeness, but if you happen upon it yourself, take security in knowing you’re being caring already by putting yourself out there for the onslaught of information users are going to be giving you, haha.

Thank you for taking him to the vet first thing, and for looking for answers to give him the best life possible! Welcome to the forum!  

Agree with Wick that it might be overwhelming at first, but the resources here are excellent. Housing, diet, and health are important to get a handle on asap. 

I agree that you should check out all the resources in the Bunny info section, but I’ll try to answer your individual questions here: 

“Is it ok to keep him in cage ? ” – Not all the time, but for now, it will keep him safe. Absolute minimum cage size should be large enough that:  he can stand on his hind legs and not touch the top, and long enough to stretch out and not touch the sides. Extra large dog crates are common for people to use as cages (they are often cheaper that large rabbit cages). If his cage is small, you can get an x-pen as a “front yard” to give him more space. This might be a good option for you since you are remodeling and have other pets. Once your home is settled you can bunny proof, and think about introducing the other animals. 

“I do not know if he’s potty trained? How would I know? ” – Most rabbits will choose a corner of their cage as a spot to go, and that’s where you would place the litter box. Unneutered males often have bad litter box habits and will “mark” other areas, but will still use one spot most of the time. 

“Do I need to buy litter box for him? ” – Yes, probably (see above) Also you didn’t ask this, but do NOT use wood shavings in the cage or box. Pine pellets (sold as feline pine, stove pellets, or horse stall pellets) are cheap, safe, and work very well. 

“How often should I clean the cage? ” – I clean my bunnies litter boxes every day or every other day. While you are getting to know your new friend, I recommend daily. This is mostly so you can monitor their poop. Healthy bunnies poop a lot, and it should be uniform, round, and often! The first sign of illness is often something weird with poop (either smaller, irregular, less of it, softer, etc). Bunny parents get obsessed with poop! 

“I have dogs and cats. I don’t know if it’s good idea to introduce them? ” – Not just yet, esp. with the dogs. For now, it would prob be best for the bunny to keep him in a room that still gets lots of human traffic but that the dogs aren’t allowed in. 

‘I also have two boys age 8 and 7 ” –  Do not let them hold the bunny. For now teach them about feeding, watering, cage cleaning. For bonding with the bunny they can hand feed him veggies and pellets. 

“How do I know if the room is not too cold or too hot for him? “- Cooler is usually better than warmer, but if it’s comfortable for you it’s  good for bunny!