I’m sorry you’re going through this! Sudden behavior changes can be indicative of multiple things, so can you share some more detail about Greyson?

1) How old is he?
2) Has he been neutered?
3) How long have you had him?
4) Has anything in the environment changed?
5) Is he pooping, peeing, and eating normally?

Sometimes behaviour changes can be indicative of a health issue but they can also be due to frustration, boredom and just wanting attention. What do you do when he goes on a bit of a rampage? He might have learned that’s how to get your attention. I really feel for you, I wake up multiple times with my bunnies being in the room next door, let alone just 2ft away from the bed!

He’s at a good age to be neutered, so this is most likely his hormones getting to him. This is natural and the neuter will help.

In terms of putting him back in his cage, this is an OK tactic if you’re doing it with his health in mind (i.e. you don’t want him eating bad fibers/ingesting something bad). If you’re doing it as a punishment, I would stop that mentality because rabbits do not understand punishment. Rabbits aren’t fore-seeing enough, especially when this is a hormonal driven act. It kind of equates someone punishing a human for burping— you can’t help it, it just happens, so if someone punishes you, there’s really nothing you can change, so it may just make you depressed or frustrated as you wonder why you’re being punished.

For now, let him free roam in areas that he won’t be able to destroy as much, or designate times for free-roam where you’ve prepped the area so it cannot be destroyed as easily (cover carpet with cardboard).

When he started chewing on his litter box, had it been moved from where it was before he started chewing on it? Some buns are particular about where their litter box and other things are in their cage.

Hmmm.

To me, it really just sounds like he is bored. The peeing/pooping outside of litter tray likely has something to do with the fact that he isn’t neutered yet, but it could also be another sign of frustration.

I had a mini lop named Quincy, and I kept him free roam in my room. Granted, the room wasn’t huge because it’s an apartment, but it was definitely big enough. He chewed the absolute hell out of the baseboards in that room. and ripped up carpet. On the wood I tried bitter spray, lime wedge (worked temporarily) and hot sauce… but he wouldn’t stop chewing. I have another rabbit who I had first and she got to roam free in the rest of the apartment. I was working on bonding the two so I would switch them every day or two and have her in the room and him in the rest of the apartment. I found that when he was able to roam a larger space, he really didn’t chew up the rest of the house.

So, I think its important for a bunny to have enough space that they don’t get bored, because that’s when they get destructive. They pick up these bad habits cause they have nothing else to do. I know you say that he’s allowed out when you’re home, but maybe he’s still got all this tension and frustration built up that when you let him out he just starts doing as much as he can before he gets put back in a cage? If it’s possible, I would say try and bunny proof your room, work on improving litter habits and try to make him free roam of the room 24/7 if you can.

I agree with the others. He sounds bored and hormonal.

You mentioned that you live in an apartment so he doesnt get much space. How much space does he get to roam around? How often do you have him out and roaming?

are you aware of the bonding process? Both of the rabbits will need to be spayed/neutered and you will have to do at least a month of prebonding, meaning they will need separate cages for a few months until they are fully bonded. Then, if they are to share a cage you will need a huge one for the both of them.

Bonding is a long and stressful process, two rabbits cannot just be put together. They can fight to the death so rabbits should never be introduced unless they have been associated already through prebonding.

It’s a bad idea to have play dates with your friends rabbit. They may not fight if they are meeting on neutral territory, but I’m telling you, the second that you witness a bunny fight you will NEVER want to see one again. It is not pleasant to see them turn so aggressive.

Please do consider these things before you opt for a second rabbit. For the safety of both buns you need to be very informed on the bonding process and understand that it takes months of prebonding and separate living until they can live together in harmony. And there is no gaurantee that two rabbits will get along… I recently had a bonding that failed and it’s the worst feeling!

I wouldnt suggest a second rabbit, personally. It doesnt sound like you have the time, space, or money for a second rabbit. The bonding process is hard and stressful, and isnt promised to work out. If the two hate one another, youre now stuck with two separate single rabbits who cannot go near one another. Although you have great space, it can get very cramped very quickly when two animals are not allowed near one another.

I suggest, instead, that you spend more time with him. Lay on the floor with him and roll around. Hide treats around the room under little baby cups (you can buy baby stacked cups for a few dollars at almost any store that sells baby stuff). Talk to him often. Get willow stick balls to roll around the room (safe to chew). Consider a diggy box (shredded paper in a large box). Consider a fleece forest (DIY cubes with strips of fleece tied to the top hanging down). Add more hidey spots. Make DIY treat balls out of cardboard.

I guess it might depend on the area and of course the vet but gosh that price is insane. Spays and neuters only cost a little over $100 at mine. If there are any other bunny-savvy vets in your area you should definitely call around for different prices. I personally would never pay that much.