Firstly, if he was raised on spoiled eating habits, regardless of mouth discomfort, he’ll shy away from hay. Between treats, pellets, veggies, and hay, hay is the least preferred, hence the “last resort”. Additionally, rabbits won’t really show their preferences right away like humans (i.e. eat sushi once and you know you hate it/love it). Wick actually loves oat hay, but when we first presented it to him, he showed no interest at all. It took about a week of it being in his mix until it was apparent he was eating mainly the oat hay first. Oat hay made him selective though (liked the seeds as much as fruit treats), so now he just gets timothy and orchard hay, haha.
Rabbits won’t let themselves starve if they feel comfortable eating, which it seems he should since his teeth are fixed. I’d suggest reflection on the feeding schedule. If you feed other items throughout the day, Marshmallow will continue to not eat hay, as he won’t get hungry enough to go to the “last resort” food item. Is transitioning to strictly AM and PM, twice per day feeding a viable option/something you’re already doing?
Wick is a netherland dwarf, a runt, has a underbite, and doesn’t chew on anything, so at 11mo, he’s already have 3 teeth procedures my goodness. He has very good hay appetite and I need to keep it that way, so he gets fed veggies at 6AM, pellets in the late afternoon (4PM) and one leaf of romaine at 9:30PM to satiate him. For the 10hrs between veggies and pellets, it’s all hay. From pellets to one single veggie, its all hay. Every night at 8:30, I add orchard hay on top of his timothy to stimulate more hay eating throughout the night (he likes orchard a lot). During the day if I’m home and I notice he hasn’t touched his hay in a few hours, I’ll grab the old hay, toss it in the hay box, mix it with new hay, then replace his hay. The fresh scent restimulates everything.
The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.