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› FORUM › HOUSE RABBIT Q & A › Prebonding setup with two free range buns?
I guess I am full of questions today! ![]()
And this is going to be a mini novel so I apologize and I hope some of you can stomach the length and read it to give some input! I didn’t post this in the bonding thread because I didn’t feel it technically belongs there. I got married in May and we purchased new furniture because we were supposed to move… unfortunately that fell through, so I was stuck with this massive couch and desk in my tiny apartment living room.
I am having my lop neutered on August 25, and I know he will need time after that to recover, so I really have a bit before they start to actually do some bonding. BUT I am trying to determine how I would pre-bond two free buns? My female has the entire apartment besides the bathroom and my bedroom. My male has the bedroom to himself. Neither bun has been confined to a cage for more than the first few days since they came home with me… so I am at a bit of a loss here because I see in pre-bonding activities that their cages should be put in close proximity. My female doesn’t even have a cage. She had one, but she avoided it at all costs- literally. So I cleaned it out really well and am using it for my lop. He only goes in it to dig in the sandbox or use the litter box.
Currently, I have two baby gates set up in front of my bedroom door (one in the door frame, one in the hallway) to keep Ophelia from running into the room, which she has done. They are about 2 ft tall, and she EASILY jumps over them. It only stops her because there are two and she cant jump over both in time to get in the room. I really do not have the space anywhere else in my 650 sq foot apartment to set up separate X pens, and I think Ophelia would just jump it anyway (She can jump on my bed at least 3 feet off the ground).
So what I was thinking is, when we are ready to start some seeing each other action, I could take both baby gates, stack one on top of the other in the doorway, creating a 4 ft high “fence” at the bedroom door. Since the space in the gate is big enough to fit a nose through, I would have to push his cage up against it from inside the bedroom, so that there was space and no one could bite or scratch. He would have to go in his cage to interact with her at the door, so if he wanted to be away from her he easily could be. This will be a huge pain in my a$$ to maneuver around every day, but I don’t know what else to do, they would hate to both be in a cage.
Honestly, I think that’s the best idea, that and doing all the litter box and food dish switching. You could do the stuffed animals and switch those up too, my buns don’t like them though xD When you’re going to actually bond them, do you intend to do stress bonding in a car?
What is the gap on the baby gate bars? buns can squeeze through seriously small gaps to get through to another bun. Snickers, who is our biggest bun, weighing 2.8 kg, once squeezed through a gap of no more than 3-3.5 cm to get through to Gina! thankfully, both buns were temporarily frozen in shock that she’d actually broken into Gina and Podges’ run, and I was able to open the run door and lift snicker out before anything happened.
I hadn’t planned on doing stress bonding in the car. I’m honestly just dead afraid of what I would do if they started fighting in a car!!
I have been switching out a stuffed animal. Before I put up the baby gates, she got in the room and they got in a fight. No one was injured besides some fur being pulled out, and it started under the bed so it was about 10 seconds before one of them ran out, my husband threw a laundry bin over him and I threw a blanket over her to stop the chasing. For about a week after the fight, she would lunge and grunt at me if I smelled like him at all. I had to wash my arms off before she would let me touch her. She was very mad at the stuffy, constantly lunging at it so I just took it away for a week to allow her to “reset”. I gave it back a week later and she is fine now. No more lunging or grunting at it.
Honestly, I planned on going really slow with their bonding and I’m not sure if that’s a good idea or a bad idea. I have had him for almost a month, and he is super super sweet. Within the first week we were cuddling on the floor and he just loves to lick our noses. I’m afraid that she’s more aggressive than him and I just honestly do not a fight to break out on my watch. She doesn’t react well to change. I was going to do pre bonding for a solid month before a face to face. So I would just let them see each other through the bars and switch out trays and such for a month. Unless I find that they are laying against the barrier together and obviously want to meet, I had planned on a month of seeing through the gate.
I would say the gap is about 1 1/2 inch. I have these gates up now and she hasn’t tried to squeeze through, but she also hasn’t been able to see him. They aren’t “bars”, this gate has “diamond” shape, grid-like appearance. Wow do you think she could get through it? I was going to first only try it out on the weekends when I was home all day. I have bad anxiety and I am super paranoid that somehow they would get to one another, so I was going to have that set up for at least two weekends while I was home to see if they try any funny business. Honestly though, I don’t really trust her enough to be alone because she’s very curious, so I would only allow this when I am home. So, basically I’d let them see each other from 5pm-9pm every day, and all day on weekends, otherwise keep the gates up and door closed when I am not home.
Honestly, your plan sounds spot on considering the variables you’re working with. As for pre and actual bonding, go as slow as you feel comfortable. Buns pick up on our tension which can affect their stance toward other buns. If your husbun joins you in tne car with the buns, you could totally do stress bonding at some point in the future, since it’s less likely they’ll fight in such a scary environment, and even if they get antsy, you’ll be there to intervene. Another good option is on top of the washer/dryer, or even water in the tub with a towel desert island, but that’s more extreme. ![]()
Hiya! I think you are on the right track. I think in terms of pre-bonding, you don’t need to worry so much about them being close together or being able to see each other, but you could start swapping who is in what room every day or two. That will help both bunnies loose track of what is “their” territory. If that is too much trouble or not possible, swapping litter boxes and bowls/toys works too. I’ve never used stuffies, but I have put a towel or blanket in each pen and swapped that.
Nothin wrong with taking it slow! It’s best to go at your buns’ pace.
It’s pretty normal for the female to be aggressive if she was the original bun, since females are the main territory holders in the wild. She will likely end up the dominant one, but you never really know how these things will work out.
Car ride stressing is an interesting one. I have found it to work well when both buns (or at least the aggressor) are equally scared of the car. It worked really well with Bertha’s first mate Bunston, as all they wanted to do was fight. I had my partner drive, and I sat in the backseat with the bunnies in a plastic bin (open top of course), and I wore oven mitts on my hands, and was armed with a water bottle. They snuggled together by the end of the 15 min drive, and it really helped get past the fighting. Since yours have already had a scuffle (something similar happened with Bunston and Bertha), it might work well for you too.
I also used car rides with Moose and Bertha, but it was to help them get past a plateau. They weren’t fighting, but they weren’t snuggling or grooming. The car ride helped push them realize they actually wanted to be friends and not just roommates.
With them, I already was confident they wouldn’t fight, so I chanced it and did it without a helper, but they were about 3 weeks into sessions at that point, and were spending hours together without incident.
You can also try the “smoosh” technique for the first dates, where you place the buns side by side in your neutral space, and pet them both while smooshing them together, to swap their scents and calm everyone (including you) down. One bonder at our rabbit rescue starts every date this way.
. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.
Sounds like you have a good plan! I think we talked before about how I’m in a very similar situation, I’ve now got 2 un-caged buns living in my apartment. I’ve got a 3ft high gate with very small holes (no way to stick a nose through) between the kitchen and the living room, so I switch the buns every day. They have a lot of room to move away from the gate, but they come check each other out a few times a day, those interactions have seemed peaceful so far
A few poop wars, but no other issues to date. I’m still in the infant stages of bonding them, so I’ll let you know how it goes!
duplicate post
I just don’t trust Ophelia enough to section off rooms lol. She is quite the jumper! And if she is curious about something- she will find a way to get to it! So whenever we are ready I’m going to start with the weekends and see how that goes, and if it’s fine I’ll allow a few hours after work too. The only issue I have about switching them is that he eats everything lol and she isn’t a chewer at all. I suppose I could just put her in my room and section off the dining room and kitchen for him like I did for her when she first came home. He’s so tiny I don’t think he can jump the gate.
Is there any point to doing any “pre bonding” before his neuter? I already switch out their stuffed bears, and they each have a blanket of their own. When I go to clean his litter box I set it down for a few minutes and she goes over and chins it then will jump in and eat his leftovers lol. I’ve read that male urine scent changes after a neuter, is that true? As far as letting them see each other, I see that some have said it’s not necessary but I’m just really afraid that if she doesn’t see him before hand she will get spooked and fight him on first encounter. She is very sweet with us, but she is intense lol she’s definitely got herself a wild side. When should I start with the letting them see each other? After the neuter or wait a month for him recover before starting even that?
When I brought them home, neither one liked the car. They wouldn’t eat or move in the carrier- just sat completely still facing the back of it lol so maybe stress bonding in the car would be a good first meeting. I have an SUV with a huge trunk so maybe just sit with them in the back or is it better to have them up on the seat?
Posted By Q8bunny on 7/31/2017 11:14 PM
Honestly, your plan sounds spot on considering the variables you’re working with. As for pre and actual bonding, go as slow as you feel comfortable. Buns pick up on our tension which can affect their stance toward other buns. If your husbun joins you in tne car with the buns, you could totally do stress bonding at some point in the future, since it’s less likely they’ll fight in such a scary environment, and even if they get antsy, you’ll be there to intervene. Another good option is on top of the washer/dryer, or even water in the tub with a towel desert island, but that’s more extreme.![]()
Towel desert island ![]()
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You are so imaginative Q8!! I planned on starting in the tub, since she isn’t allowed in the bathroom and has never been in the tub. I’ve also been told that slippery surfaces can help with them wanting to fight because they may fell less secure if they are slipping and sliding all over. I may start with a car ride and then switch to tub. I can’t try the washer method because I don’t have a washer unit in my apartment, there’s an on site laundry mat… I would probably turn some heads if dealing with some fighting bunnies in the wash room ![]()
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His scent will change after his neuter…. I doubt pre-bonding before will hurt, but I am guessing you mostly want to focus on it his neuter.
For the litter boxes, I’m not sure if you clean them daily, but I usually clean mine every other day, so I would swap them daily. That way they would be using the box that the other bun had used for a full 24 hrs. Could do the same on a 12 hr interval, whatever half of your normal litter box cleaning schedule is.
I think swapping them and confining him to a smaller space would prob work great.
For car stressing, it’s good to have them in a small space together so they snuggle (rather than just cower in opposite corners). But, your trunk might be a great space for once you want less stressful dates, if you are short on options for neutral territory.
Not to worry you, but since he chews a lot do you plan to have them both restricted to a smaller area once they are bonded? Or just do more intense bunny proofing?
. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.
Sorry, I wasn’t very clear on my plan! I would be sitting in the trunk with them in a laundry bin, not just sitting in the trunk and letting them around. I know it’s important to start with smaller spaces so they don’t just observe from a distance.
I don’t want to have to confine their space, that would make me so sad. I have been working with him on the chewing and it is getting better, when I am home on the weekends all day I don’t find him chewing. I have been rubbing lime slices on the baseboards all around the room and I think that has been deterring him. He hasn’t chewed any of my bedroom furniture (thank God, it’s all brand new!) but I am not sure if that’s just because of how it’s treated or what. I gave him an old college test prep book that he is enjoying ripping to shreds. I also bought him several wood chews and straw toys. And the carpet in my room doesn’t get nearly as much traffic as other areas of the apartment, so it’s fluffy and not “matted down”. He finds the fluffy spots and will start to rip it up, but he doesn’t seem to take out much before he stops and he’s leaving the pieces he pulls out. Really the only thing that he can chew outside of my bedroom is the baseboards and the desk. We are going to continue working on the chewing!!
It’s a little hard for me to tell if he’s really not chewing though. I have insomnia and I am a very, very light sleeper, so if he did so much as jump into his litter pan it would wake me up. At night is when he was chewing the most, and it woke me up CONSTANTLY. but my medication was just switched and I am on ambien now for sleep, so I am actually sleeping throughout the night and not waking up. It doesn’t LOOK like he has chewed the boards any more, but it’s really hard to tell if he’s just not chewing or if I am not hearing him on this medication.
I couldn’t get the first picture to rotate no matter how I tried to save it… so sorry about your cervical spine XD
I set this up just so I could show you what I meant. I have time and if it is better to get a second cage and put them bear each other that can be done. This is what I came up with so that he has access to the whole bedroom still and she has the rest of the apartment. The cage door will stay open for him so he can go away if he pleases.
His cage is against a wall on the other side of the door (R) so he cant get between the gate and the cage bars. It’s about 4-5 inches from the gate. They can’t reach each other, as the cage bottom is 6 inches high all around.
I would start using this set up only when I am home as a way to let them get accustomed to seeing and smelling each other. and offer food at the barrier as I’ve done here.
….what do you think? Can this work?
The only issue I can think of could be him jumping on the cage, and then over the baby gate, which would be a long way down…. I’ve had bunnies do similar things (using their cage as a stepping stool to get over fencing).
Could you line the bottom baby gate with smaller mesh, like 1/4″ hardware cloth? They won’t be able to nip through that. Then you wouldn’t need to worry about needing the cage as a barrier.
And I do think that swapping sides is important if at all possible.
. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.
The top wires on the cage fold open, and they are detachable so I can take them off completely
then there won’t be anything to jump on top of! And yes, I could get some hardware cloth and use the staple gun to put it on both sides of the gate. Good idea! It is plastic so I know only a matter of time before someone decides to chew!
LOL I’m imagining Gandalf in the doorway: “You… Shall not… PASS!” ![]()
Ah, gotcha! Seems good to me then!
But yeah…. seems like where there’s a will there’s a way with bunnies getting into trouble ![]()
. . . The answers provided in this discussion are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet. Seek the advice of your veterinarian or a qualified behaviorist.
LOL Q8 my sister said it looks like prison visitation XD
Fur is the new black? ![]()
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› FORUM › HOUSE RABBIT Q & A › Prebonding setup with two free range buns?
