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The subject of intentional breeding or meat rabbits is prohibited. The answers provided on this board are for general guideline purposes only. The information is not intended to diagnose or treat your pet.  It is your responsibility to assess the information being given and seek professional advice/second opinion from your veterinarian and/or qualified behaviorist.

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Forum BONDING Bonding is going Extremely Well…but about litter boxes

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    • princessbookworm
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        So I’m very happy to say that Jake and Julie are almost 100% bonded. They are constantly grooming, snuggling, and eating together. I put up a baby gate in case Julie needs to get away from Jake (he’s neutered but did chase her the first few times they met). Julie can go through the bars easily and safely. Jake cannot and his head won’t get stuck in there. She also has her baby pellets, a litterbox, and water out there.

        The bedroom and hallway are bunny proofed. And everything is going super well they eat good, they sleep good, they beg for treats together (even tho Julie is too young)…

        BUT ABOUT THE POOPING. Lol.

        Julie loves to poop everywhere. She binkies and poops. She hops and poops. She lays down and poops. I tried introducing her slowly to the area with a cage in the bedroom and then a pen; however, she really enjoys being free range with Jake. She’s only 10 weeks old so I know she’s too young to be neutered. Her poops are mostly healthy. She eats hay well, pellets well, and even took a nibble of romaine (a bit early, I blame my boyfriend…but she’s fine! ). But litter training has been a challenge.

        I can’t tell if it’s the litter (I use compressed pine pellets), the presence of another bun, her age, or something else. She’s pretty good at peeing in her litter boxes. But the poop? Forget about it, lol.

        I don’t mind tidying up every morning and night as I do not have children. However, it would be really helpful to get this litter training figured out.

        If anyone has any tips, tricks, or ideas, I would greatly appreciate it!

        Thank you!


      • sarahthegemini
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          Unfortunately, babies cannot be considered bonded – even to an adult. This is because when their hormones kick in they will start to behave instinctively which can mean fighting. It would be best to keep them apart until after the little one has been spayed. Preferably at least a month to give her hormones a chance to dissipate but it can take up to 6 months. You can do pre bonding techniques during this time (swapping toys, litter etc) but no actual ‘dates’

          As for the pooping – little ones seem to just poop constantly lol. You can try just picking up the poop and placing it in the litter tray but the biggest difference in regards to litter training will once she’s spayed. They seem to just ‘get it’ at that point


        • Boston's Mama
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            .


          • princessbookworm
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              Wow, thank you guys so much for the advice. I did a little research and contacted a friend who is in vet school; she said Julie should mature around 4mo.

              Would it be okay to let them enjoy each others company until she is 3mo? Jake has never seemed so happy and she’s constantly putting her head down for grooming. I would never want to do anything to hurt or endanger them But I don’t want them to feel lonely either.

              I will schedule Julie’s spay for when she’s at least 6mo. As for litter training, I came home today to FAR less poops away from the litter areas. I think she’s catching on


            • vanessa
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                Unfortunately… by 3 months they need to be separated. They can live side by side, but they do need to be apart. It’s not a chance you want to take. I did the same thing with mine – separated them at 3 months, spayed/neutered at 6, then bonded at 7. It took 2 weeks to call them officially bonded. It will be difficult for you to separate them, but it is for their best interest, and because they are already so close, it will be easy to get them back together in a few months time.


              • princessbookworm
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                  Thank you, Vanessa! That makes me feel much better. I was trying to do the best thing for them. It’s good to know that’s it wasn’t the worst thing in the world to introduce them; they seem like they really like each other right now. But I will absolutely separate them until she is spayed and recovered.


                • LittlePuffyTail
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                    It’s sad they have to be separated but better than the alternative. Bunnies can do some real damage to each other when they fight. Best to keep your babies safe and after the spay, they can live happily ever after.


                  • princessbookworm
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                      So here is my plan…any feedback is appreciated!

                      I have built a CC cage (3×5) for Julie in the corner of my room. Would it be okay to keep her there when I cannot closely supervise? I don’t want to totally separate them immediately, but I want to make sure they’re safe. If I notice any aggressive behavior on either part, I will move her to the living room (where she can have a larger pen attached to a house). Do you all think it would keep them both safe if I do this?


                    • princessbookworm
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                        For clarification, in the plan, Jake would not have access to Julie and Julie would not have access to Jake when I am not there to closely supervise.


                      • sarahthegemini
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                          They shouldn’t have access to each other regardless of whether you’re there to supervise or not.

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                      Forum BONDING Bonding is going Extremely Well…but about litter boxes