You can post the link to the condo you’re thinking of getting, it’s not like you’re trying to market/sell it I think it’d be useful for members to see it before they answer your questions.
As for him getting traumatized by getting a new habitat, I don’t think so. But it might take a while for him to make full use of it. Buns can be like that, but it’s normal for a prey animal to be a tiny bit reluctant at first before trying sth new.

If you live near a hardware store like home depot or something (depending which country your’e from), they can usually cut wood to size for you if you were interested in making it yourself. That includes sheets of plywood and lengths of pine.

I have two main concerns with the condo, the first is the ramps. While carpeted ramps are good because they provide more traction, ramps take up a lot of space and the space at the end of them is a little squashed if your rabbit has issues going down them easily. The second is the carpet, perhaps your rabbit is already fine with carpet, but I know for a fact that some rabbits absolutely love to chew on and eat carpet which is very bad for them. Can you be sure that your rabbit won’t do this, and will you be able to remove the shelves and replace the flooring on the levels if he does? Otherwise, the only other issue is the space to stand upright as you have already mentioned which you said you would be able to remedy.

You would still need to put a sheet of coroplast or something on the back of the cage to stop hay and poop falling off the shelves etc, but with the cage on wheels it’s not a difficult task to pull it out and just sweep or vacuum behind.

At the end of the day, this cage still comes flat-packed so you would still need to assemble all the grid squares and attach the shelving units etc. Otherwise, it still looks like a well made product in terms of what they’re offering. I just prefer to set up things like that myself so it’s completely custom built to how I want it which is what I did with my 5x2x3 condo. At the end of the day it’s really about what works for you and your rabbit. How much hopping space does this cage offer in comparison to his current set up? I’m assuming he’ll still have access to the play area when you’re home and the cage is just for night time and when you’re out.

If you’re not sure about building one yourself, go through the steps of what you would need and how you would want the cage built, what you want to use for flooring and flooring surfaces, and work out what you can and can’t feasibly do at your own place. Technically the bottom level doesn’t even need a solid floor, you can just use carpet, fleece blanket or linoleum flooring extended beyond the base of the cage for the surface on top of your flooring in the room.

Also, in regard to those bunny abode condos, I would probably avoid them because the door openings are quite small and it would be a pain to clean out and access. Also much less customisation, whereas the ebay condo, if at a later date you decided that you wanted to add onto it or expand it, it’s very easy to do so by just adding more grids and taking away some existing ones.

No problem at all. I put a lot of research and work into the condo I have so am pretty dedicated to the cause

If he seems uninterested in carpet, you’d probably be ok. Bandit was big on chewing carpet, and then when I finally thought he’d outgrown it, I trialed a square of carpet in his condo and within half an hour he was chewing, haha.

For the base, I used a piece of plywood with vinyl flooring stuck on. The piece is slightly bigger than the base of the cage. Then on top of the base, I attached some lengths of timber, mainly as a way to prevent hay and poop etc rolling out over the edge. I drilled holes through the pine and just zip tied it to the cubes. However you could just drill holes in plywood if you were using that as a base and push the zip ties through there.

Here’s some posts and images from when I built the condo, because that explanation is pretty poor It starts halfway through this page, then continues on to the next. http://www.rabbitsonline.net/showthread.php?t=73547&page=39

The vinyl is a bit more slippery than I would like, when stretching or grooming his feet would slip out from under him and I would imagine if racing into the cage from fear it would be too slippery to negotiate at speed. Perfectly fine for hopping and lounging around and jumping up to the step though. I also liked to add a folded fleece blanket and a foam tile for softer resting spots, but often he didn’t use them, he just wasn’t big on soft things like some rabbits are. If you can get a more textured vinyl perhaps that would be better, although it also needs to be easy to clean so it can’t have the really grippy, gritty texture. Otherwise I feel like it’s always possible to just make a fleece blanket to size (like the guinea pig cage liners you see) and just clip it down at the edges for traction and softness over the whole cage it needed and then it’s still easily removed for cleaning.

I know I’m jumping into the conversation a bit late, but I’ve also seen some gorgeous bun condos on the internet that are essentially just hacked cheap IKEA sideboards or shelf units with chicken wire(ish) walls attached around the exterior. They seemed really cost/time/effort effective.

The doors have cable ties for hinges (they’re on tight and you can still swing it easily) and then snap hooks to hold them closed. This type: http://www.gorillaparacord.com/assets/images/1-snap-hook.jpg but I have seen some people use binder clips or other things to hold the doors closed. On my 2×2 door I used 4 clips. 1 at the top in the middle, then three down the right side, top, middle and bottom. I could probably get away with using two, but I didn’t want to risk being able to push the corners of the door and squeezing through. I used a double-ended snap hook for the middle one so that when I open the door and fold it back, I can hold it open by hooking it onto the outside of the corner of the cage

In terms of getting measurements for timber, I built my cage with the grids, and then measured. Although I knew the size of my grids etc, I just preferred to measure after just in case It probably wouldn’t have mattered for the base, but it was more accurate for the inside measurement I needed for my shelf.