My rabbit has sore hocks! Help please!!

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This topic has 16sd replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 12 years, 3 months ago by Cassiee.

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- 12/26/2013 at 2:03 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  So I was watching my rabbit hop on his carpet out in my living room and I saw that the heel of his back paws had no fur and they were slightly red and cracked. I looked it up and figured out that it was sore hocks. Is there a home remedy that I can try before taking him to the vet? I know if I let my parents know that we have to take him to the vet, they might think that I’m not taking well enough care of him, but that isnt the case.
  
  NOTE: We’ve been trying to take him to the groomer because his nails need trimmed badly, but she never has called us back. And that groomer is the only person in the area that trims rabbit claws. He also has a metal wire cage floor, but he has a bed that he often lays in. I also havent gotten him out as much as I usually do because I’ve been preparing for the holidays, so that might play a part.
- 12/26/2013 at 2:13 PM
  Sarita
  Participant
  18851 posts
  Trimming his nails will help and also covering the whole metal wire cage floor as well.
- 12/26/2013 at 2:20 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  Thanks! Can I use something like Neosporin and then wrap them in gauze to help them heal?
- 12/26/2013 at 2:32 PM
  Sarita
  Participant
  18851 posts
  Neosporin WITHOUT the pain relief is fine – just regular neosporin. I’m not sure I would wrap his feet in gauze though – he probably would not like that and it may make him uncomfortable.
- 12/26/2013 at 2:36 PM
  LongEaredLions
  Participant
  4482 posts
  I would remove the wire altogether, and cover the floor of the cage with fleeces. You can trim his nails yourself with human or dog nail clippers.
- 12/26/2013 at 2:43 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  Sarita- Okay! Thanks!
  Lions- I would if I could, but it’s built in. I will be adding lots of padding where he doesn’t go to the bathroom, though.
- 12/26/2013 at 2:51 PM
  LongEaredLions
  Participant
  4482 posts
  I don’t think he should be exposed to the wire at all. Is he litterbox trained? Could you give him a litterbox and cover the rest of his cage with fleece?
  I would cover all the wire and give him a litterbox. You can litter train him. Heck, he might even train himself!
- 12/26/2013 at 3:06 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  He has a litterbox, but I’m not completely sure how to train him…Any tips? I have a pamphlet that came with his cage when I bought it. Maybe I can try and find that
- 12/26/2013 at 3:23 PM
  mollys1
  Participant
  64 posts
  Cassiee, if you click the link at the top of the page that says ‘Bunny Info’ there is a link to a Littertraining page there. I have found that very helpful as my bunny has been slightly stubborn about the litter training. Neutering is a good first step towards litter training as it reduces hormones and the amount of hormone related marking.
- 12/26/2013 at 3:53 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  Okay! My rabbit is pretty stubborn, so hopefully it helps in my case. Im not sure if he has been neutered because I got him off of a friend. But I will definitely try to start litter training either way
- 12/26/2013 at 4:03 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  I also dont know how easily I will be able to litter train him. He’s not a super playful/friendly bunny. He hops away a lot of the time when you come near him. His litterbox is also one of those small triangle ones….that also has a metal wire. But I can take that out
- 12/26/2013 at 4:45 PM
  Peony
  Participant
  219 posts
  I am pretty sure any exotic vet can trim the nails. There also might be some animal shelters nearby that is good with rabbits. The shelter I got my rabbit from has spa days and it is though them I found about this site. Name of the shelter is red door.
  
  Anyways how big is the cage and how often do you take him out to exorcise? In the end though I would take him to the vet, not only can they tell you how to take care of the hocks and give remedy for that, but cut the nails too. You could try telling your parents that rabbits need special care for trimming the nails and would rather someone to show you first before you start doing it yourself.
  
  For the cage, you need to cover the wiring somehow. You can put something heavy to cover the hole thing like a rug, slab of wood, or tile, then cover that with a towel. Even with my wireless bottom hutch, I put a few towels there just so she can have something to dig at.
  
  For litter box, you can get something more meant for a cat, some kind of rectangle Tupperware
  http://www.sandiegorabbits.org/sites/default/files/content/page/images/litter-box/used_litterbox.JPG
  You coat the bottom with the littler, red door gave us someerset wood stove pellets (basically wood pellets) then fill the box with timothy hay. If that box is where the rabbit does most of the eating then it should make the litter training more successful.
  The site here has this link as well:
  https://binkybunny.com/BUNNYINFO/tabid/53/CategoryID/5/PID/940/Default.aspx
  
  Include Hay: Make sure there is fresh hay in the box. Bunnies poop and eat at the same time.
  
  Add poop!: Put your bunny’s droppings and a urine soaked paper towel in the box.
  Check out these Great Litter box Ideas from our Forum Thread.
  
  So that is another thing, any stray poop throw in the litterbox.
- 12/26/2013 at 5:02 PM
  LongEaredLions
  Participant
  4482 posts
  Triangle litterboxes really aren’t suitable. Cat boxes work well.
  It’s pretty easy to see if he is neutered. Just peek at his bits. But if you got him from a friend, he probably isn’t neutered.
  Also, would you consider getting/making a new cage? Dog play pens are great for bunnies, and it might be easier to manage the sore hocks. I would also recommend the vet for the sore hocks.
- 12/26/2013 at 5:04 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  I did tell my mom about his feet and she said we might take him to the vet. I’ll let her know that we can probably get his nails trimmed, too. It’s a pretty big cage for a dwarf rabbit. I think its about 30×15 inches or something like that. When it’s not the holidays, I normally get him out about four or five times a week. He is really stubborn otherwise. Before getting on, I put down a bunch of layers of shop towels (or basically thick paper towels) and then put some old blankets on top. I didn’t cover the whole cage, though, because I’ve only started litter training him today (his previous owner didn’t).
  
  I also cleaned his cage today, so instead of putting the wiring and everything back on his small triangular litterbox (that he rarely used), I put in pet bedding (the only thing I have at the moment) and some timothy hay. I also added some healthy bits (basically seed balls) that he likes. I also did add stray poop in the litterbox and set it where he eats from his food bowl. Lets hope when I put him back in later, he doesnt freak out because of the change…
- 12/26/2013 at 5:07 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  Lions- Im working with what I can now. My mom currently doesnt have her car. I dont think he is, but we’re going to call the vet to schedule an appointment. I might consider it…Im thinking about pulling apart his current cage. My parents probably wont be too happy because we just bought him it, but I want to do what is best for Snickers. But yeah, I set down some blankets on top of the wire and we’re calling the vet tomorrow
- 12/26/2013 at 5:11 PM
  LongEaredLions
  Participant
  4482 posts
  Sounds like you are doing everything you can. I am sure Snickers appreciates it.
- 12/26/2013 at 5:15 PM
  Cassiee
  Participant
  11 posts
  I hope he does haha
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