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› FORUM › HOUSE RABBIT Q & A › How to sanitize a cage after disease
Ok so those if you who knew about Jack and his recent passing. I am preparing the cage for TWO new arrivals. They are going to be 9 weeks old. The lady I got Jack from refuses to return the money but she offered to give me not one, but TWO bunnies either today or next Thursday. I have sanitized his cage, litter pan, hay rack, food bowl, water bowl, each individual bar making up the cage with white vinegar and warm water. My question is will that suffice? I’m too scared to use chemicals on the cage. Also, there was this hay house that he munched on but I obviously can’t sanitize that. Will the hay house be ok for the new arrivals? It cost me like $20 and I would hate to toss out the house that still has so much munching and hiding in to offer. I’m not sure what Jack had but the vet said he had GI Stasis but I feel like he had something deeper wrong with him. Will the new arrivals by any chance catch what Jack had?
Im so scared to get another rabbit from this place. I feel like they are going to already be very vulnerable to disease due to conditions they have been in the start of their life before reaching me and I don’t want to do anything wrong to help them catch anything. Have I prepared everything properly?
Vinegar and warm water don’t kill bacteria. You need to use boiling HOT water and a sanitizer that is designed for killing bacteria. I use a 100% natural santizer made out of natural alcohol. You can also use methylated spirits.
I agree with Karla, vinegar and warm water will not sanitize the space.
I would be wary of getting another rabbit from this place as well – was it a breeder or a pet store? They just don’t sound like they have good animal husbandry in my opinion and if she won’t refund the money, I would have issue with that as well.
Thank you so much for telling me! I used water and bleach about two hrs ago because I felt like the cage wasn’t sanitized enough. The two bunnies are eating and munching on hay already and they have only been home 20 minutes! I am going to keep a very close eye on them for the next few days as I am very paranoid about rabbits now. I am already in love! Just need to find names now
It’s a pet store but they get rabbits from a large breeder from the next state over. I have them safe and home and they are already eating and drinking water. She didn’t like the idea of handing me $100 in potential rabbit sells but I told her I have vet records so she handed them over. They are already very active and seem happy so far.
Well, if you already know that the place you got them from is not the best, I would suggest that you start out already now getting them Benebac/Fibreplex and take precautions to ensure gastrointestinal health.
I would take them in for an exam with the vet and have a fecal test done to check for coccidia.
Yeah I have them each some probios. When jack became ill I called every store here and the only place who has benebac was 50 miles away. Is probios ok? I’ve already given them each a dose when I got home with them because of the stress of the move.
Also how long should I dose them that. I was thinking just for the day. They already seem to be active and out and about eating lots and playing getting into lots of trouble lol
It won’t hurt but I would still get them tested for coccidia – probiotics won’t treat coccidia if they have that and it is fatal in young rabbits.
Well they have already been pooping and it’s normal. I was just doing the probiotic for beneficial bacteria to keep things balanced. I know it won’t cure it and I agree they should be examined for precaution. I can’t call until tomorrow but until then, what do I need to look out for?
I second Sarita, vet check and some test’s just to be sure….
If it was stasis I don’t think it can be transmitted unless it was caused by a bacterial or viral infection.
Keeping fingers crossed for new baby buns… It would have been nice if they had come from a rescue but atleast they are out of the clutches of the pet shop owner at her expense. Loosing money might make her think twice about where the buns come from and what condition they are in. If possible ask about and see if anyone else has had similar problems with the place, maybe an online search and if there have been ongoing problems it might pay to have a word with your local governing body regard the business and it’s practices.
I would take them to get a checkup at the vet. Just to be safe.
These are guys are so active! I am constantly trying to rescue them from trouble. They are a handful Waldo is constantly trying to climb things and get behind things. They are only allowed one room for playtime and they are determined to get past the baracade we created lol I have actually seen a few binky jumps from Waldo. The girl is more delicate and proper but has her moments. I’ve decided to name them Waldo and Wenda. (Wenda is Waldo’s girlfriend in the Where’s Waldo book. And no I have no intentions on breeding I’m actually calling the vet tomorrow to get evaluated for spay and neutersBut they seem to be very happy and healthy. I’m so in love right now it’s ridiculous.
Quick question, the trails of poop, will that ever stop? They act like they don’t even know its happening how do I go about them taking to a litter box when they seem to poop every minute!
Ps- Waldo has learned to jump on the couch already! He just jumped right up next to me ![]()
Wow! Baby buns are very adventurous, but they sound especially active! You’re going to have your hands full with them!
Have you given any thought to how they’re going to be housed when they need to be separated in a couple weeks?
They will need to be separated by 12 weeks old. Males can be neutered at about 4 months when the testicles descend. But they retain viable sperm for 1-2 months AFTER neutering so he won’t be able to go back in with the female. Most vets will not spay females until about 6 months, and then they need to be allowed a month to heal before being reintroduced to the male rabbit. So you’re looking at at least 4 months when they will need to be separated.
I’m not sure what kind of cage they’re in now, but I would recommend investing in an xpen when they need to be housed separately. The xpen can eventually be used as their full-time bonded habitat because it’s much larger than a traditional store-bought cage.
Oh wow I didn’t know sperm lived 2 months after neutering! I will def need to get a pen soon then. I’m having a hard time finding a rabbit vet here. When I went to the house rabbit society and clicked on my state it just had bunny stores! No vets for my entire state!
We just have a basic rabbit cage just for now. When letterbox training is done they will be free range but I want them to have a xpen setup in the kitchen for sleeping and while we aren’t home. The cage is just so we can get situated and get the jist of things.
I feel like its going to take awhile to letterbox train though :/ they seem to poop everywhere! I’m going to clean the cage out today because the entire floor is covered with poop already. There is some in the letterbox, but way more on the floor of the cage :/
I really need to get on that neuter thing. I don’t want any oops litters.
It’s likely that they may have litterbox issues until they’re both fixed and bonded together. Right now, their litter habits are bad because they are young (think of a 9 week old bunny as a 1-year-old child, they have no control over their potty habits). Once hormones hit, there will be an increase in marking because they are all out of whack. After neutering, there is typically a surge in hormones, so that’s going to cause some issues. And then you’ll be bonding, and they are going to want to establish their territory… by more marking.
One baby bunny is hard, two… oh boy! There’s a reason why many people who have had a baby bunny and taken them through the “teenager” stage decide NEVER AGAIN and only adopt adult rabbits from that point on!
› FORUM › HOUSE RABBIT Q & A › How to sanitize a cage after disease
