Welcome.

1. Rabbits don’t have cycles like dogs, cats, humans – they are induced ovulators which mean they can get pregnant at any time rather than during cycles.

2. You need to keep them separate at this point until they are spayed and then you will have to rebond them if they continue to fight and the one bunny keeps getting stressed.

This behavior is typical and just because rabbits are litter mates when they become of age this happens most of the time.

I realize that’s probably not what you wanted to hear though.

I saw that you posted another post with the exact same information in the Behavior section but this is the section it does belong in so I deleted your other post as it’s too confusing having it in 2 places.

No, they don’t have any kind of cycle although I imagine they can seem to act more hormonal at times.

If it were me, I would get them spayed both at the same time so they can recover together and be ready to rebond when they are both healed. But a week apart would be fine too as you want to wait a good month to start rebonding them.

Be sure you are speaking to an experienced bunny vet, a lot of vets assume rabbits “go in heat” which they do not. Typically vets spay around 6 months of age. Stickers was a huge ball of hormones and my vet had no qualms about spaying her at all, he’s been treating rabbits for 25 years. A lot of vets say they will treat bunnies and will, but actually have no clue – I had at least three vets say “yeah we treat bunnies all the time!” and then tell me to starve my rabbits before surgery… uh, not! So I kept calling around until I found my vet that knew what he was doing.

During the hormonal stages (usually starts at around 6 months, but it can start later/earlier depending on the rabbit) females can be terrors. I would not try to keep them together honestly since they are fighting, it could become a serious injury that requires surgery.

It took her over a month to calm down, in that time watch your feet if you enter her room and I got plenty of bunny nips/lunges. lol She was a very hormonal little bun, I think even worse because I had Powder at the time so she could smell a male. Once she and Powder got over their surgeries, it only took a week to bond them though.

It took my pair of girls a couple months to bond. Hormones can be a You-Know-What, and I wanted to wait until Smudge’s were completely gone. And then, they are still girls, and girls even minus hormones can still be territorial. Monkey wouldn’t even let Smudge out of the litterbox at first!

Heh, Monkey, Powder wouldn’t let Stickers out of the litterbox either. He pinned her down and got gunk all in her beautiful fur. So not just girls can be that rude!

Monkey would leave Smudge alone in the box, but if Smudge even looked like she was thinking of hopping out, monkey would charge, growl, and attempt to be scary. No gunkiness, just crankiness

Since your happy with the vet you’re currently with my only suggestion would be to ask them a couple questions just to make sure that they’re experienced with rabbit spays (rabbit spays are very different from cat and dog spays). The first question would be “do they require withholding of food before the spay?” if the answer is yes then that would be a big sign that they aren’t experienced, since rabbits cannot throw up. Here’s a good link from the House Rabbit Society that explains a lot more about spaying rabbits and how to make sure you’re with a rabbit savvy vet: http://www.rabbit.org/faq/sections/spay-neuter.html If you’re vet answers those questions right then you know you’re going to a good place

After the spays they should stay separated for about a month, even if they start returning to their normal behaviors a week or so after there still probably will be hormones left and they need to heal fully too before you start the bonding process. It really sucks waiting, but it’s better waiting then to have one hurt. Good luck with everything