Initially it will be fine, but you will want to invest in a larger cage or consider an x-pen as she gets older.

It’s very small- personally, I wouldn’t even use it. The wire bottom is really going to hurt her feet (it is a wire bottom, right? I’m on my phone so I could be wrong!!!) Hopefully, you can get a refund for it and then just get an xpen. You’ll probably save money that way!

I agree, I wouldn’t use it at all. Take it back and get something larger or a pen. You still have time.

Now that I see it, I wouldn’t use that either. It looks much smaller than I thought it would be and as you can see, that litterbox barely fits in there. You are going to hate cleaning it…the sooner you can get a better setup the better :~)

Have you looked for dog xpens on craigslist?

If you can’t give it back for a refund, consider keeping it stored away for an emergency traveling cage as a backup. This may sound odd, but here in Florida during Hurricane season I bought a new one that is very similar. I may never need to open the box, but a few years back we had 4 in one season, and I had to bunk in at my parent’s house each time. My bunny stayed in a cage that was large enough for him to sleep, poo and eat, but it fit easily into the closet where we needed to take cover briefly. When the storm passed, he was allowed to roam around. But it fit in their garage, my new one fits in my trunk, and I feel secure owning it for this reason.

If you will never need it that way you can donate it to a shelter. Or resell it on Craigslist. (Just be careful.)

If your rabbit can’t stand on its hind legs, I wouldn’t use it.

5 hours can be long for a young rabbit, they have lots and lots of energy! I agree with Lovechacha, your bunny’s home needs to be tall enough for her to stand up and room for her to run around a little (and stretch out). Sore hocks can develop from surfaces like wire bottoms. An xpen would be a great solution or a bunny room if you have the space (I bunny proofed my room and put up a baby gate in the door, Wilbur is a baby too). Also another suggestion I have is switching the water bottle for a cermaic water dish, I’ve noticed it’s easier for rabbits to drink (:

Great looking cage, but it’s a tad on the small side.
I learned the hard way with my first bun Chessie … She started off in a small cage, then I upgraded to a medium size cage. After I realized she was only 1/2-way from being full grown, I put her in an exercise pen – which I ended up adding 3 more panels to (LOL).

So your cage will do for a little bit, but please start saving up for an exercise pen – it’s totally worth it!

The mats may help- so that’s very good that you’re doing this. It’s still extremely small… 5 hours a day + nighttime, about 10-12 hours- and she’s in there for 17 hours a day, easily. You won’t get 6 months out of it. Maybe 2-3..
Like Pam said, you can always keep it as a backup. You could also get an xpen in a month or two and attach it to the sides of the cage- you could keep her water and food bowls in there and perhaps even her litter box, but then she will have the whole xpen to play in. Xpens can be found on Craiglist and I’ve even seen really nice looking ones on ebay with totally free shipping. Those ones were cheaper as well rather than going to a store to find it. I’ll see if I can still find the link.

ETA: Found it! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Elite…641efca462

A comparable one from petco or petsmart will cost you about $60. 

I had a cage years ago for one of my buns just like that and personally I regret it it was way to small for your bun it might work now but in a few months its not going to work. Alot of times those cages are more expensive then a bigger cage.

it does look like a good size cage width and lenth wise, but i agree it is a bit short…i think that a good idea is to get an x-pen or a big play pen and just put the cage in that and have the door open! Then your rabbit can go in the cage as they please, and they will have head space outside!

If it’s all you have to work with at the moment, then I think you could extend the height using NIC grids. Is the top removable? It looks like white metal clips of some sort. Anyway, if the top can be removed, you could add NIC grids to the sides to add height the affix the top again. Even put in a level for her to jump too. It could work while she’s little. Keep in mind though, they grow fast!!

I agree with a couple people here… if you can extend the top that would be good for a temporary solution, or add an x-pen around the cage and drape a blanket over the little cage, and always leave the door open (but the x-pen around the cage will keep him from roaming your house unsupervised). My rabbit likes to sleep in the dark and small section of his condo where he feels protected. So your bunny could exercise outside of the cage, but crawl back in to use the litter box or sleep.

Keeping a spare travel cage is smart too, you never know what will happen in the future. I didn’t plan on moving, but then moved across the country and luckily had the old, small petstore cage that Mr. Bun-Bun came with when I adopted him. Keeping them in a small space for a few days while traveling or whatever isn’t harmful. It’s only bad long-term.

I am not sure if that is wire on the bottom of the floor or not. Maybe if you could get rid of that it would be a great idea or maybe cover it by putting would or something else down. Wire is not good on the buns feet.

Ohhh too bad. Perhaps you could return it or sell it online? It’s way too short (They need to be able to hop and stand up, or they can end up in pain) and it just won’t be big enough even a few months from now;

You should check out our habitat section, there are lots of diggs that people make themselves, that are easy (C&C) and cheaper than cages https://binkybunny.com/BUNNYINFO/RabbitHabitats/tabid/71/Default.aspx

My concern is that there still isn’t room for little bun to stand up on her hind legs. And most bunnies don’t like those corner litter boxes.

Since she’s still such a little baby, you can use it for now (unless you are able to return it for a refund but I thought that wasn’t an option) while you decide which type of habitat you would rather use and do some careful shopping over the next couple of weeks. You can watch for sales. But that floor isn’t really too good either. The holes in the plastic are big enough for a toe or nail to catch on. So sorry you have an additional expense, but as we said, it doesn’t have to be a total waste.

You will eventually have to get a much bigger habitat. Rabbits grow INCREDIBLY fast and outgrow so many of their stuff – including their litter box. I would recommend a cat litter box.

It looks like the floor is hooked on with hog clips. If you take a pair of pliers or grinder you should be able to remove the hog clips to give the cage a couple of extra inches in height. When ever I got a bird or rodent cage with the wire bottoms I would remove them that way.

Oh good thinking Bones!
Mindy, by doing this you gain height plus have extra wire (ie the current wire flooring) to work with. Since you aim to litter train, no need for the drop thru flooring. I think the measures you’ve taken to protect her feet are good personally. She has a few different options of surface to lie on so you’ll be able to see her preferences before too long. But definitely keep in mind Bone’s suggestion. Once you have her home and in there you’ll be able to get better idea of what will work and what won’t.

You must be very close to bringing her home by now. Yay!

 How much time would your bunny get outside of the cage (i.e. run time)? Rest area (living area, cage, ect.) should be at least 2 by 4 feet, and personally I feel that even that is too small especially if the rabbit would have to be kept in there during most of the day. Run area (an entirely separate area from the cage) should be at least 24 square feet and a rabbit should be given at least 4 hours daily of free fun time, 30 hours weekly. If you can have a room in your house be a “rabbit room” it would be an easy way to combine rest and run areas.  Wilbur is about 4 months old now, when I adopted her she was 8-10 weeks and I had a large dog kennel (2 by 4 feet, height about 3 feet). That was fine for the first couple days, I would take her out for exercise time but after that she was 100% litter box trained, so I from then on I kept the kennel door open 24/7 and put up a baby gate in the doorway of my room. She grew REALLY fast and is still growing, she always has lots of energy! Zooming around my room doing binkies is an all day event. I just keep the kennel so I can put her litter box, water bowl, food dish, and one of her hidey boxes in there so she has her own “safe” space she can retreat to if wants. After her spay I’m going to create her a new space with levels probably out of Neat Idea Cubes and keep it open 24/7.

Really it would be a good idea to get a large cat litter bin/pan rabbits do not like corner litter pans. Litter box training with one will probably be difficult. Rabbits like to spend time in their litter boxes, some even like to lay in them. They also like to do their business while they eat. Hay would be a great way to encourage the rabbit to go into the litter box. Go to https://binkybunny.com/BUNNYINFO/LitterboxTraining/tabid/62/Default.aspx to learn how to train and what the litter box set up should be.

Here’s a pic of the kennel set up (Nothing fancy, just essentials. For size reference the litter box is 15 by 12 inch a cat box. Sorry about the poor quality cell phone pic) And as you can see with toys and hidey box there is no room to run around.