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Forum BONDING First-time bonder with tough bond – please help!

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    • gbe
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        (Cross-posting this on several bunny forums – I need all the help I can get!)

        (Also, this is LONG post… trying to get all the details out there in case they’re important… thanks in advance for reading)

        Hello everyone,

        I’m really hoping you all can help me with what’s proven to be a very difficult bond.  Here’s the background:

        Rabbit #1 is Daisy.  Daisy is a bit over a year old, a lionhead mix, and spayed.  We’ve had her since late August of last year and she’s been a great bun.  Has good bathroom habits, is a chewer but can learn what not to chew, loves being pet, has a VERY healthy appetite, and seems to be in good health.  She lives in a NIC/C&C cage in our guest bedroom and is let out a couple of times a day to explore the living room and kitchen area.  (Generally we don’t allow her into the bathroom or our bedroom, but she sneaks in occasionally and is ushered out.)

        Rabbit #2 is Buster.  Buster is about 3.5 months old and is also a lionhead mix.  We plan on having him fixed as well, but he is a bit too young for that at the moment.  We adopted Buster a couple of weeks ago out of foster care (his parents went into foster from a shelter and his mom happened to be pregnant at the time).  Buster is a very lively bunny and is everything you’d expect from a baby boy bunny:  excitable, energetic, curious, friendly.  He doesn’t enjoy being pet at this point, probably because he can’t sit still for more than two seconds.  He’s good about peeing in his litter box, but is still learning where to poop.  He currently lives in the living room in a separate cage where he and Daisy can see/smell each other.

        About three weeks ago, we took Daisy speed-dating at the foster home.  We tried her with three potential mates:  the first one started out OK (some nipping and chasing and dominant behavior from Daisy), but after a while got more tense so we decided to move along.  The next mate was not a good match at all and they started fighting almost immediately.  The third match was Buster, who did the best of the three by far.  Daisy was protective of the litter box in the playpen, but was very curious about Buster.  She nipped and chased him a few times and he submitted, but overall her reaction was more “frisky” than anything. 

        We decided to adopt Buster and brought him home in separate cage.  We agreed with the foster lady’s request that we should start introducing them by putting his cage next to Daisy’s.  In hindsight, that was probably a mistake.  For the next 24 hours or so, Daisy became VERY agitated, repeatedly trying to get to Buster through the bars of their cages, breathing very had, often bunny flopping.  For the first day, we let each one out while the other was still in his/her respective cage, letting them reacquaint with each other.  Buster was curious about Daisy and approached her cage several times, which prompted a very defensive and aggressive reaction from her, but mostly he was focused on exploring the surrounding area.  When Daisy was let out, she was obsessed with Buster and would try to get in his face, jump on top of his cage, etc.

        Thinking back to how they reacted at the foster home, my inexperienced opinion was that Daisy needed Buster to “formally” submit before she would be at all OK to have him in her presence.  We set up a playpen in our bedroom (again, primarily neutral territory) with a new litter pan filled with litter and hay.  We put Daisy in first and then brought in Buster.  Daisy approached him and started to attack by biting the back of his neck and latching on.  I had water and a towel ready, and immediately doused her with the water (which startled her) and then shooed her away with the towel.  She would go back to the litter pan, eat, and use the bathroom while Buster cowered in the opposite corner.  She would periodically go back to him, appear to get a sense of him, and then start attacking again.  Sometimes she just seemed curious, but Buster would thump and/or run away and that seemed to provoke Daisy to attack.  We tried this for about 15-20 minutes to see if there would be any improvment before calling it a night and returning them to their separate cages. 

        Since then, Daisy has calmed down somewhat slightly.  We moved Buster’s cage out of her room and into the living room (where it currently sits) so they could experience each other indirectly without being in each other’s face.  We let Buster out to explore the far side of the house (not the half where Daisy lives) for exercise and he does usual marking but is mainly interested in playing.  When we let Daisy out, we keep Buster in his cage and monitor their interactions by squirting her with a water gun if she tries to bite him through the cage.  She usually gets the message and backs off.  She’s no longer obsessed with him to the point where she’s always at his cage, but will occasionally “drive by” his cage and approach him before hopping away.

        Buster, for his part, seems to be becoming more defensive about protecting his own turf.  When Daisy comes up to his cage, he will usually get right up to her face or run back and forth along the barrier, scenting everything in there (while Daisy scents the outside) to let her know what’s his.  His actions seem to make Daisy more nervous; sometimes she takes the bait by charging his cage, but more often she simply hops off in another direction.  Often they will just sniff each other through the cage, which to us seems like a small victory at this point.

        We’ve had this setup for the past 1-2 weeks and we seem to be at a bit of a decision point.  Their interactions don’t appear to be changing significantly at this point (though perhaps they will in time), and it seems incumbent upon us to make the next move.  This is where I’m at a loss.  On the one hand, we really like Buster and he seems like he’d be a great pet.  He got along decently well with Daisy at the foster home, and that’s given us a lot of optimism.  On the other hand, it was rather disturbing to see Daisy attack him to the point where we were worried about his health and safety.  She’s a lot more territorial at home than we could have imagined, though she has mellowed slightly.  The whole point of this endeavor was to get Daisy a buddy, so we don’t want to be “a house divided” and keep them separately for the rest of their lives.

        So, my question is:  where do we go from here?  I have a lot of patience and know this process can take weeks to months.  At the same time, I don’t want anybody getting hurt, which is my #1 concern at this point.  I’ve done a lot of research on bonding “tricks,” like putting them in the car or another stressful situation, but at this point I wouldn’t be comfortable with them being in a confined area in case she attacks him.  But I also feel the need to do something to move the process forward a bit.

        As you can see, I’m in a jam and could REALLY use some advice right now.  I’m happy to answer any other questions you might have.  Thank you tons in advance!


      • Monkeybun
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          First of all, I would wait until Buster is neutered to continue bonding. A bonding won’t really be successful until the hormones have no effect on the bunny’s behaviour.

          In the sessions in the pen, I would take out the litter box for now. Litter boxes can cause aggression, as each bun wants it as their own and will fight over it. Better to have just you and the bunnies in the pen, nothing else.

          Always try to end a session on a good note, ending on a bad one will make the bunnies think that if they are mean, they can go back to their cage where the other bunny won’t be there. Do this by doing some forced snuggles if necessary, holding them side by side and petting them simultaneously.

          Hope it helps!


        • jerseygirl
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            Welcome

            Absolutely get Buster fixed first, then wait about a month until the hormones already in his system have depleted. If he has his testicles, he’s old enough to be done. The sooner the better. It will not only curb any hormone-driven behaviour he might begin to display but it’ll also change much of the scent Daisy would pick up on.

            If me, I would then re-start sessions with them (after a month) in very limited space and be very hands-on. So in a box or basket and petting them side by side. Just short (15 mins) sessions but daily, even couple times a day. I’d also wear some protection on my hands.


          • gbe
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              Thanks, everyone, for all your tips. From posting this on a number of boards, it seems the prevailing opinion is that I should hold off on bunny dates until Buster is neutered. That makes sense to me. A couple of additional questions:

              (1) Buster is probably about a month or so away from being fixed. Until then, what kind of interaction, if any, should he be having with Daisy? Also, for the month or so after his operation, should I isolate him so he doesn’t feel threatened by Daisy? Or should I keep him close enough around so that she can continue to get used to his presence/scent/etc.?

              (2) For those who suggest car rides and other “stress tests” – any advice on how to separate them in case they really go at it? When they fought in the playpen, Daisy latched onto the back of Buster’s neck and wouldn’t let go until I splashed her with water. Is there a better way of separating them? Can it even be done if they’re in a close quarters (i.e. a box or carrier in a car)?

              Thank you!


            • RabbitPam
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                1) I would not let him be available for any interaction with Daisy until the month post-neuter.
                But you can start working on the substitute stuffed toy to begin the adjustment to each others’ smells. If you put a similar sized stuffed animal (No beans in the stuffing-it’s dangerous if a hole appears and beans get eaten) in each of their pens it will absorb each one’s smell. Then you switch out the stuffies to the opposite habitat. If either of them is aggressive, they act out on the stuffie, not the live bunny. Often they get used to the smell over time, at which time you are much closer to the bonding date. You can also see who is going to continue to give you a hard time and who will settle down.

                2) An alternative to car rides is Beka’s Washer/Dryer ride. Find her bonding thread about Max and Meadow, but in summary, she used a laundry basket on top of a running dryer to simulate the motion of a car ride and the size of a carrier. She monitored it from above, ready to separate or scoop up any bunny that started serious trouble. Max & Meadow bonded well and quickly, but it’s a great way to try it in a controlled setting.


              • gbe
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                  That’s good advice, thanks.  It just so happens I have a very lifelike stuffed animal bunny that I plan on using (by pure coincidence, it also happens to look just like Buster).  We currently keep it in the common area where Daisy has her exercise time, and I often catch her grooming it.  I’ll put it in her cage for a week or so for her to further scent, then switch it to Buster’s cage for a week, then switch it back to observe their reactions.

                  As for the washer/dryer thing, that’s a great idea, but unfortunately we have stackable W/D’s and the top of the tower is not really accessible   But maybe I can build a setup that involves having them ride along on top of the vacuum cleaner or something similarly dreadful.  Of course, I don’t plan on doing that until Buster has fully recovered from his fun trip to the vet…


                • jerseygirl
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                    You can put them in a box or wash basket and just bounce it on your knee. I think someone used a shopping or clothes trolley also. Lots of things you can try as long as it  involves movement, keeps them near each other and you can easily reach them.


                  • Wembley
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                      What a lot of interesting ideas! I agree that bonding will not be successful until Buster is a month over his neuter. The “operation” is Step 1 for me. Then what follows is Step 2 – getting the idea across to all parties (I have had to bond a new incoming bunny to 3 others at the same time) that no one is going away. My bunnies are all free range therefore must get along. For 14 days, 3 or 4 times a day, I let the newbie roam at will while the others are confined to the newbie’s space (a large xpen in the middle of the dining room) in order for all scents to be everywhere. For the first few days there is aggression at the fence line but no one gets seriously hurt. Sometimes somebody gets lucky with a nip through the bars which usually results in a bit of fur lost. On the 15th day, I open the newbie’s enclosure for the last time only this time the others are still out as well. I have found that by the 14th day, the newbie is no longer “new” and everybody pretty much has accepted that this new one is here to stay. I have followed this procedure 3 times and it has worked each time. Good luck with Buster and Daisy – may they be happy, bonded bunnies real soon.


                    • gbe
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                        Thanks for the comments, everyone. This weekend will mark the one-month anniversary of Buster’s operation, so I’m ready to resume bonding.

                        Wembley, I really like your idea because it seems more like a plan and less like a “let’s let them out in the same area and hope for the best” (which is basically what we tried initially and were unsuccessful). I was hoping to ask you a few questions about your technique:

                        When you let the newbie out and have the “resident” bun in the newbie’s cage, do you allow the newbie to go into the resident bun’s cage as well? If so, assuming the newbie marks his territory in the resident bun’s cage, do you bother to clean it at all or do you leave it for the resident bun?

                        Also, do you do the same thing in reverse – that is, have the resident bun out while the newbie bun is locked away in the resident bun’s cage? Or do you limit this technique to when the newbie bun is out?

                        Everyone else is welcome to chime in as well with any other strategies that have proven successful. The current situation is that both buns are in the same room but in separate cages about 5-7 feet away from each other. When Daisy is let out for exercise, she usually goes over to Buster’s cage to explore. Sometimes she’s mean (trying to bite him through the cage), other times she seems frightened, but mostly she just tries to eat hay out of his bowl. Buster usually gets very agitated and runs back and forth in protest whenever Daisy is outside his cage. However, he doesn’t grunt or typically try to bite at her.

                        When Buster is out, we don’t let him near Daisy’s cage because Daisy gets very defensive/territorial – hissing, grunting, trying to bite, etc. – and Buster ends up marking (i.e. peeing/pooping) outside of her cage. Daisy doesn’t mark outside of Buster’s cage, which is why she still has the privilege of approaching it. However, her once excellent litter box habits have basically disappeared and she now poops and occasionally pees throughout her cage. The only silver lining is that neither bun is marking outside of his/her cage.

                        This has all the makings of a tough bond, but I’m trying to be as diligent and mindful as possible in keeping them both safe and thinking positive. That said, I’ll be checking this board frequently for advice!


                      • Sam and Lady's Human
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                          OT, but my vet fixes boys at 3 months, is there a reason yours waits until 5 months??


                        • Elrohwen
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                            It’s really really hard to tell what a bond will be like when one bun is in a cage and the other is out. Many buns are quite territorial of their own space, but once taken to a neutral area they really settle down and aren’t as pushy.

                            With switching cages, you can actually switch them back and forth between cages every day or so. I didn’t do this with mine because the cages wouldn’t have worked (one was too short and the other bun would’ve escaped) but plenty of people do it with good results. You will get marking – poop wars are pretty unavoidable, but they will go away once they are bonded.

                            Have you introduced them in a neutral area yet, like a bathtub? I think you’ll have to get them in there before you can tell what they’ll be like together. Stressing is also a great technique. In addition to some of the stressing ideas already listed, I used to put them in the laundry basket and shake them around for 30s or so (while near the tub) then dump them back in the tub. I used this when they were getting fussy or humpy and I didn’t want to end the session on a bad note, but couldn’t get them to settle down otherwise. For the most part, bunnies won’t fight during the stressing because they’re too freaked out (which is why it works) but definitely have thick gloves on and something to separate them (I used a plastic dust pan, others have used colanders, etc) plus a spray bottle on hand.


                          • gbe
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                              123 – The foster lady also doubled as a vet who did the surgery, and she planned to have us bring him by in mid-March. That’s right about the time he started marking (before that his litter habits were much better), so I think that was a good estimate of when he would reach sexual maturity. He had his operation at the start of April. He was born in mid-November, so that would put him at about 4.5 months. Not sure if this is unusual or not.

                              Elrohwen – Thanks for the advice. I think the idea of switching their cages makes sense (as much as any part of bonding two random rabbits makes sense, haha). I fully expect their cages to be plenty messy during this period. The poop doesn’t bother me so much because it’s less messy and easier to cleanup; the urine marking, however, takes a lot more work to deal with since I spray with vinegar, etc.

                              If you happened to real my original post, Buster and Daisy have met a couple of times in a neutral area – when they first met at the foster lady’s house (where they did relatively well) and a few days later in our bedroom (where Daisy repeatedly attacked Buster until we removed them both). I’ve thought about the bathtub idea, but I’m pretty they could jump out to escape if they wanted. Does this not happen? I always thought they’d jump out of the box/basket as well if they were being stressed, either on a lap or in a car.

                              I’m trying to hold off on the stress-testing in favor of creating a more positive atmosphere w/ food, treats, etc. However, it may well be that these two won’t get along unless they’re stressed together. I figure I’ll make that decision after a couple weeks of cage-switching to see if they’re still fighting through the bars.


                            • gbe
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                                (Bumping this because it’s been a while…)

                                It’s been about a week now since I’ve started bonding Daisy and Buster. To recap, Daisy is a 1.5-year-old female, spayed, and is our original bun. Buster is the newbie – he’s about 6 months old and neuteured. Daisy and Buster got along quite well during their initial playdate at the foster mom’s house, which is the primary reason we adopted him. Once back home, however, Daisy attacked Buster rather viciously – biting his neck and latching onto it – so they’ve been separated ever since. They currently share the same room but live in separate cages about 5 feet apart. While Daisy has gotten a lot better when approaching Buster’s cage, she still gets very agitated whenever he comes up to hers.

                                At the forum’s suggestion, I’ve started doing some cage-switching for about 30-45 minutes every night. Because Buster is the newbie, I let him roam around while Daisy is secured inside his cage. Buster will go into Daisy’s cage to mark a bit and have a snack, but he does less and less of this the more times we repeat the process. Instead, he spends most of his time playing in a cardboard box on the other side of the room. He’s curious about the bunny in his cage, but Daisy grunts and lunges and chases him away.

                                When Daisy is out and Buster is secured in her cage, the fireworks continue as she races around the cage trying to get in and/or attack him through the bars. Buster gets agitated as well, often marking when he’s running around defending “his” turf, but he doesn’t grunt or lunge like Daisy does.

                                I’ve done this now for about a week and I was hoping to see more improvement by now. Again, Daisy acts pretty well when she’s out and Buster is in his own cage, but she’s very aggressive when he comes to see her. I bought a stuffed rabbit toy tonight and plan on using it as a stunt double to see if maybe she can take out some of her aggression on it. Maybe that will help her blow off some steam.

                                I’ve read a lot on here about stress-test bonding and I realize that might be my next step if things don’t improve with the current process. The reason I’ve held off on it for now is that I’m really concerned that Daisy might attack Buster in the box/crate/etc. and it will be difficult to separate them if I’m driving or bouncing them. Part of the concern is that I’m simply not very experienced at handling rabbits, and with both of mine being quite athletic, I’m not even sure I could keep them in the same place. That said, I know a lot of people have had success with it, so I’m very open to suggestions for those who think that might work under these circumstances.

                                Apologies for the long post – just trying to provide as much detail as I can. Thank you in advance!


                              • Monkeybun
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                                  I would switch cages every 24 hours. change them over each day, and switch back the next. It works better and gets them more used to the scents

                                  Stress bonding may be the way to go with your buns, by the sounds of it. I know how that is Start with a box on the couch. Wear thick mittens, gardening gloves, oven mitts, somethign to protect your hands so you don’t have to worry about being bit. Bounce the box every time they start to look like they are going to attack, it will put them off balance, maybe scare them into snuggling. If they go for each other, thats when you reach in to separate with your well protected hands. Don’t be scared, they can pick up on that. Just stay calm, and don’t worry about hurting or scaring them.

                                  Handling experience comes with time and practice, keep practicing so you get more confident at it


                                • Tate
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                                    Here is a good article about bonding: http://www.saveabunny.org/rabbitcare/bonding-guide


                                  • gbe
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                                      Thanks for the tips.  I’ve started switching their cages every night to help their introduce each other’s scents, so we’ll see how that goes. There’s been plenty of marking (unsurprisingly), so I’ve been doing my fair share of cleaning, which I’ve learned is a negative side effect of this process.

                                      I put a stuffed bunny in with Buster (while he was in Daisy’s cage – Buster’s cage is small and messy and it seemed unsanitary to have a urine-soaked stuffed bunny sitting around for so long). He definitely marked his scent all over it. I left the stunt double in the cage for when Daisy returned to it, and she scented it a lot as well, but that was pretty much it. From reading these forums, it seems that the aggressor bunny will often attack the stunt double, but I didn’t notice any aggressive behavior. Maybe I should have left the stunt double with Buster for more than 24 hours?

                                      For bunnies that are fighting like these two, I agree that stressing may be the way to go if I don’t see some progress relatively soon. A lot of people have suggested holding them together and petting them to help them relax. While that makes sense, the issue I have is that Buster, oddly enough, does not care to be pet. Normally when I try to pet him, he runs off to do something else. He’s very friendly mind you – moreso than Daisy (who is more shy but LOVES to be pet), but he’s much more interesting in playing and exploring than peting. I’d worry that petting would actually make him more stressed, as strange as that sounds.

                                      Also, thanks for the link – good stuff in there!  From reading it, stress-bonding and/or the “wear them down method” (where you sit in a pen with the buns and play bouncer until they finally stop fighting) are likely in my future.  Fun times…


                                    • gbe
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                                        Hi Everyone,

                                        First off, thank you all so much for the helpful advice and encouragement! I know that bonding is an unpredictable and too-often frustrating process, but I’m at least becoming more comfortable that I’m taking the right steps.

                                        I’ve followed the advice of some on this board and others and limited Buster and Daisy from approaching each other’s cages. While their cages remain in the same room a few feet from each other, this is more a result of our limited space (we live in a small house) than anything else. If nothing else, I know they’re used to each other’s scent by now.

                                        Tonight was Buster and Daisy’s first face-to-face date since their unfortunate encounter a few months back. I started by putting them in separate carriers and driving them around for about 20-30 minutes while doing a few quick errands. When I returned, I loaded up the bathtub with all kinds of hay and treats, then placed the buns inside the tub.

                                        Overall, things went fairly well – certainly much better than last time. Buster came out first to explore, while Daisy took a bit more coaxing. More than anything she seemed very apprehensive, but in a positive way such that she was more curious than upset. Daisy and Buster sniffed each other for a while without incident, then they gradually started snacking together on the hay. Often Daisy would shove her face into Buster, which I took to mean “groom me so we both know I’m the dominant one,” but Buster ignored her and kept munching on hay.

                                        After 10-15 minutes passed without any fighting, I was feeling pretty good about things. However, Buster then tried, unsuccessfully, to leap out of the tub, and that seemed to frighten Daisy. After that mishap, she started getting more agitated and started nipping at Buster. I tried petting Daisy to calm her down, but whenever I stopped she continued nipping at Buster. It wasn’t the vicious neck-biting that we saw before, but her ears were back and she was lunging, so it was much more than a love tap. At this point I realized I had kept them in too long, and after petting her to calm her back down, took them out of the tub and back into their separate cages.

                                        For the next couple of weeks or so, I plan on continuing this pattern since things went rather well overall. At some point I worry that the tub will no longer seem like a foreign/neutral place and I will have to find another such area, but for now I’m going to maintain the status quo.

                                        For those of you with advice to share, any comments or thoughts on the process? One thing I struggled with tonight was knowing exactly when to end the date. I’ve read that you should seek to end it on a positive note, which I tried to do, but if things are going well then my tendency is to let the date continue. Things turned sour around the 15 minute mark tonight, so I might limit tomorrow’s night dates to 10 minutes.

                                        Any suggestions on when/how to end the date, or any other advice you all might have, would be greatly appreciated!


                                      • Elrohwen
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                                          Glad to see you’re back to bonding in the tub! Before when I asked about trying them in the tub, I meant since the neuter. Like the others, I agree that bonding pre-neuter isn’t likely to work. Also, like I said before, plenty of bunnies are very territorial of cages, so you can’t really go on how they act when one is out and the other is caged. Yours seem very territorial of their space, so it’s good that you’ve limited their ability to terrorize each other during play time. Their behavior in the tub doesn’t sound unusual – typical first bunny meeting behavior I think.

                                          About doing car rides – it’s most effective when you put them together in the same carrier or a box. Of course, this requires an assistant (to drive, or watch the bunnies), but the idea is that they do the stressing together and learn to trust being near each other. I used a laundry basket for stressing so I could do it by myself right in the bathroom – I just shook them around a bit. I also used stressing when they would get nippy or upset with each other. If you wait until they get nippy and then end the session, they’ll just learn that the other bunny goes away when they nip. If you stress, they can learn that being obnoxious results in something unpleasant and it also snaps them out of the nippy bullying mindset and often gives you some moments of peace afterward so that you can end on a good note. Mine also got nippy around the 15min mark, so I just did stressing them and then put them together again for another 10min or so and was able to end with calm bunnies. Eventually I think they get tired of being defensive and nippy and that’s when they really learn to be together calmly. If you can get over that 15min hump you can probably get some quality time in where they might be more willing to lay down together. Of course, this might not happen right away, but you’ll get there!

                                          I would recommend keeping to the tub until you’re able to do longer sessions there. Since it gets used all the time by people taking showers, plus the bunnies have only been in there at the same time, I wouldn’t worry about it losing its neutrality. Bathtubs work so well because there’s nowhere for a rabbit to hide and stake out some territory to be protective of. I stuck with the bathtub until they could be in there for at least an hour without misbehaving, then I moved onto a small hallway.


                                        • gbe
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                                            Thanks for the bunny dating suggestions. 10 minutes still seems like the optimum point for Daisy & Buster at present, as Daisy starts getting nippy around 15 minutes in or so. Nights 2 and 3 went more or less like the first night; usually it takes them a good 5-10 minutes just to de-stress enough from the car ride to actually move, interact, snack, etc. Daisy remains the aggressor – in fact, I’m not sure I’ve ever seen Buster even try to nip her. He usually either requests grooming or ignores her while snacking on hay.

                                            As for stressing methods, I’m going to switch to “in-house” stressing starting tomorrow night, since driving around town is both inconvenient and pricey. My plan is to put them in the laundry basket, jostle them around for a few minutes, then dump them back into the tub. As you said, if they start fighting, I’ll jostle them again so they associate fighting with something negative.

                                            Question for all you bonders: how do you handle nipping versus chasing versus out-and-out brawling? (I would include humping in here, but we haven’t seen any of that yet.) I know a lot of people allow nipping to take place in order for them to determine pecking order, but I have a hard time distinguishing that from more aggressive biting which I fear will just go downhill.

                                            Also, has anyone tried the banana-on-the-forehead method to trick them into “grooming” each other? At this point the bunnies are still shoving their heads into each other to demand groomings, but no one has responded yet. I’m wondering if nudging them along w/ some banana might push them forward a bit.


                                          • Elrohwen
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                                              I let Hannah nip once or hump once and then took action. Mine never had an actual fight though. I didn’t let her get away with more than one or two nips because it made Otto really defensive. In a way he needed to growl at her to make her stop, but I also didn’t want him to get so frustrated that he started a fight. It was pretty clear after a while from her behavior that she really liked him and just didn’t know how to interact politely. If she were actually aggressive and starting fights, I might have approached it differently.


                                            • gbe
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                                                Figured it’s time for another update

                                                We’ve been doing nightly bonding sessions in the bathtub for about 2 weeks now, and I think we’re seeing slowwwwwwww but noticeable progress. The bunnies – primarily Daisy, who’s been the aggressor – seem to be getting over “seek and destroy” mode where they attack each other on sight. What we’ve been seeing the past few nights is lots of what I call “bunny standoff,” involving the two rabbit shoving their heads against each other, presumably to request grooming. Unfortunately, both bunnies are typically stubborn and don’t want to be the first to groom. Eventually Daisy seems to get impatient and that’s when the nipping starts, but I do think she’s getting more patient waiting as the days go by.

                                                Interestingly, Buster is starting to take more initiative to reacting to Daisy. Whereasa before he did a lot of cowering at the other end of the tub, he will even give her “mini-zips” on her sides and haunches if she doesn’t groom him. Sometimes this provokes Daisy to bite back, but sometimes she just seems to simply ignore it.

                                                I did try the banana-on-the-head trick with mixed results. Buster is definitely not shy about licking the banana off Daisy’s head. However, Daisy didn’t return the favor – which means Buster now has a sticky patch on the fur on his forehead. Any suggestions for cleaning dried banana crust off a fluffy rabbit? :p

                                                We did have one date at a friend’s house in the pen, and that did not go well at all. Lots of chasing and fighting almost immediately. We let them cool off for a good while in separate carriers, then tried them again in the tub, which worked much better. At this point I’ve learned it’s not a good idea to introduce anything they can “own,” such as a littler box or hay box, into the environment. Looks like the tub is the preferred destination for now.

                                                Finally, we had been stressing them through car rides, but I started worrying about Buster’s reaction to it all. He would start peeing (presumably out of fright) during the stressing and would take a long time to recover after being deposited in the tub, where he would simply lay down out of exhaustion. I realize that stressing them means just that, but I felt like he was getting more stress than was healthy for him. So for now, we put them on the floor in a laundry basket and run the vacuum cleaner around them for 5 minutes. They’re not as stressed when it’s all done, but they don’t fight and Buster seems to handle it better.

                                                Perhaps the biggest positive sign we’ve seen is that both Daisy and Buster haave on a couple of occasions groomed each other’s ears on their own initiataive. It just lasts for a few seconds, and for some reason it usually ends with nipping/biting, but I have to consider it a good sign. Maybe we’re getting somewhere after all

                                                Sorry again for the long post – thanks again for everyone’s advice, and feel free to keep offering suggestions!


                                              • gbe
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                                                  Hi guys – wanted to provide an update for those who are interested.

                                                  Overall, bonding is going “OK.” I started doing bathroom dates about a month ago and feel like I’m in a bit of a rut. The bondings seem to follow the same pattern: the first 1-2 minutes involve both bunnies exploring the bathtub (where the dates are); Daisy then gets aggressive and starts nipping Buster because he gets in her face when she’s exploring; Buster reacts defensively by spraying pee everywhere when attacked (but doesn’t nip back); after another 10 minutes they settle down and Daisy grooms Buster for a few minutes. At that point things are pretty calm, so I usually end things on that note.

                                                  I stopped doing stressing because Buster wouldn’t react well at all (peeing while in the car, then breathing REALLY hard and plopping down for a long time once he was finally out). I don’t notice a big difference in stressing them versus not stressing them, except perhaps they interact less at first when stressed. People have suggested short dates around the 5-10 minute mark, but that’s usually when these two are fighting, so I’ve gone with longer dates (usually upwards of an hour) to try to break them in a bit. I think it’s helped, but they could be doing better.

                                                  I try to make dates positive with lots of petting and treats, but the treats mess things up because they start competing for food even though they’re both being offered it. I fear the same thing would happen if I put down greens or other treats, so I haven’t tried that yet, but am considering it.

                                                  A few things worth noting: First, Daisy tends to be more friendly towards Buster when they approach each other head-on. However, whenever he’s active around her, e.g. hopping back and forth, she immediately gets mad and tries to nip/bite as he goes by. Similarly, whenever she’s lined up with the rear of his body, she invariably tries to nip his neck or rump. It’s amazing how much simple positioning can affect things.

                                                  Second, whenever Buster bunny flops, Daisy nearly always attacks him, even if she’s beeen otherwise calm. When Daisy lays down, Buster approaches her immediately and tries to bite/lick/groom (hard to tell exactly) her , um, sensitive areas. Not surprisingly, this usually prompts her to stand up to attack him. Anyone know the significance of this? Is this something I should prevent or let them work through?

                                                  This weekend we plan on doing a marathon session with them in the pen in the living room. We’re going to put down lots of blankets in anticipation of Buster peeing, put on some DVDs, and try to wear them down to the point where they have a breakthrough. I’m really hoping this will work, because I feel like I’m running out of options.

                                                  Has anyone ever tried the “wear them down” method with success? Also, any suggestions on what the above reactions might mean? Any general advice on bunny dating, or how I might break through from the current holding pattern? Please help! Thanks!

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                                              Forum BONDING First-time bonder with tough bond – please help!