A bun usually takes 3-4 weeks to heal after the surgery, but it could take a little longer to get all the crazy hormones under control, and hormones arent something you want to deal with while bonding. Yes you could have another bun around then, just do not put them together and make sure they cant fight through cage bars. Age, size, breed dont matter, all long as both are spayed/neutered and through the month it takes to heal.
As for the fighting, read some bonding info. My first bond had a semi bad fight, Hammer jumped over his pen and into Rose’s pen, he had never jumped out of it before. I heard them fighting from downstairs. They were moving so fast it was hard to grab them and I ended up screaming super loud and kind of hitting them with a water bottle to break them up. It sounds horrible but this was new to me, i was terrified screaming and crying, the bottle was there and I didnt know what to do. They both turned out fine, I think Rose had a small scab on her forehead but all in all okay. They can/will fight more then just the first time as well, they could start at any time in the process, thats why you have to be there and ready. You can use an oven mitt or pasta strainer to block fights before they start. The trick is to be able to carefully read body lingo and stop anything before it starts. Here’s some body lingo info http://language.rabbitspeak.com/

Generally a male and female is better, and female and female is the most difficult. But If you do male and female be completely aware that they can mate between bars and in seconds you will have a litter on the way. I wouldnt get a female until your bun is neutered and then a month after. A male can get a bun prego up to a month after the surgery. And I would NOT use a water bottle to break up a fight, you should not hit them at all. I did because I was terrified and alone and not prepared, it was next to the cage and the only thing I could think of, but dont recommend that at all. Have a pasta strainer ready so you can shoo one bun away from the other or kind of scoop them apart.

Female/Male is usually easiest, just get them fixed first. You should get them fixed ANYWAY because bonding is easier when they aren’t sexually frustrated all the time. Did you read the links I posted in the other thread? If not, do so! They answer all your questions, plus some you may not have thought to ask.

It is good that you are doing a lot of research before bonding. While you are considering, there are some important things to think about. One is that bonding can sometime take several months, and you have to be prepared to take care of two bunnies separately, cleaning both cages, giving them both exercise times etc. In addition, there is also the possibility that the bunnies cannot be bonded for some reason, and you have to be capable of keeping both bunnies separately, or else you have to figure out what you would do in the case that they cannot be bonded. There is definitely a lot to think about, so it is good that you are asking questions.

Posted By i~luv~frappichino on 11/27/2009 06:17 PM

OK,well i am convincing my parents for another bunny for my male(so far,i am winning!!),i have to get him spuetered though.

1. How long does it take for a 2 year old male bunny to be recverd after the ..you know..operation?
2. When h is recovering can you have another bunny around(in different cage)?
3. How long is the process of bonding?
4. When you are bonding can you bond a really young bunny to a 2-3 year old bunny?
5. Do the bunnies you bond have to be same breed(For example,Can you bond 2 different breeds?:Japenese harlequin and a holland lop or mini rex etc.)
6. When you have both bunnies in a session for the first time and they start to fight,how do you seperate them and what if you cant seperate them?

 COMMENT PLEASE I EED ALL THE HELP POSSIBLE!!! I WILL HAVE MORE QUESTIONS SO GET READY!!!

 THANK YOU!

1. Bunnies generally recover quickly from a neuter.  Most are out and about looking for trouble the day after the neuter.
2. Males are normally not as territorial as females, so you can definitely have another bunny around in a different cage. Also, it would be a good idea so that they can get used to each other before the actual introduction.
3. This is difficult to say. Some bond instantly, others take longer. Read through the many threads on bonding and you will find stories of the easy bonds and those that are still being worked on many months after the first introduction.
4. Grown-up bunnies prefer the company of other grown-up bunnies, and baby bunnies prefer the company of baby bunnies. So although you find the baby bunny irresistable, don’t expect an older bunny to feel the same way. A bunny that is 1 year old is considered grown-up in this regard.
5. No, you don’t have to have the same breeds. Bunnies don’t care. So just go for it.
6. I think someone else answered this – gloves and water spray. I have never had aggressive bonding sessions, so others may be better at giving you advice on that one.

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Yes, it matters. Both bunnies have to be neutered.